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Where Have all the Cowboys Gone
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.6 from 59
votes
Routes in Saddle Rocks - Skirt (West Face)
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A Cheap Way to Die T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Calamity Jane T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cole-Anderson S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cowgirl in the Sand T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Dial 911 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Do Rein Me T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gaucho Marx T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hanna Montana TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Harlequin T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Harley Queen T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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If You see Crow, Bark! T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Kid Calingula T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lone Pine T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Marlboro Man T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Orange Flake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Other Flake, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Posse, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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R&R Revamped T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Restoration & Repair (R&R) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Right On T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Rough Riders T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Santa Cruz T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Silver Spur T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Six Shooter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Us and Them T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Walk on the Wild Side T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Where Have all the Cowboys Gone T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Write In TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 33.99445, -116.14002 |
| FA: | Bob Gaines, Tom Atherton, Cal Gerberding & Alan Bartlett, September 1999 |
| Page Views: | 9,537 total · 32/month |
| Shared By: | AJ on Dec 31, 2001 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Access Issue: Temporary Closure
Details
Source: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
A modern Gaines classic. Hard to believe he's still finding such gems in a "climbed out" area like Josh.
P1- Start about 30' down (closer to the road) from the Iconoclast arete. Climb a thin crack on the outside face of an exfoliation slab (5.8) that diagonals left and merges into an arete. Clip a bolt, then face climb up the featured slab up to a small ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.
P2- Make steep face moves on incredible varnish straight up past 4-5 bolts (5.10+). After 50' or so the bolts wander left, and the rock becomes less steep and more frictiony. Make engaging slab moves straight up past several more bolts (5.10). Belay on another ledge. A classic pitch.
P3- For a 3rd pitch, from the right side of the ledge, climb an easy crack (the top of Orange Flake) up to a "V-notch." From here, down climb 40 feet off the backside (4th class) then rap from a 2-bolt anchor (100 feet) to get down.
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