Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Kurt Smith and Dave Hague, Spring 1984
Page Views: 4,860 total · 23/month
Shared By: Woody Stark on Nov 8, 2001
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This is the first route to the right of Walk on the Wild Side and, in my opinion, superior to it. It's runout a bit - particularily getting to the first bolt, but that only adds to the interesting character of the route. I've led in three or four times.

Protection

P1) 4 bolts to bolted anchor/rap P2) 2 bolts to bolted anchor/rap

Controversy Over Name?

This route was originally known as Negro Girls. Click here for a lengthy and colorful discussion on that topic.

Photos

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Woody Stark
  5.9
Woody Stark  
  5.9
I'd like to make a modification to my description above: this route is only one pitch. I've always continued up to the ledge system where the routes to the left finish. If you do the "second pitch", tis a bit run out since there's no pro. As you approach the ledge, veering right is about 5.7; and the further left you go, the rating goes up. Considering the run out is about a hundred feet or so, it's quite stimulating. This "second pitch" situation exists because I didn't bother to check the guide before I climbed it the first time. Actually, not checking the guide adds a whole new aspect to climbing. Oct 11, 2004
Woody found the two bolts on the second pitch last year, with a little help.

They are a bit right of what looks from the belay like the logical line and hard to see. Not that suprising considering that the first one is at least 50 ft out. Mar 29, 2009
Luis Orozco
Covina, CA
Luis Orozco   Covina, CA
accidentally combined this with walk on the wild side thought is made the route better Jan 17, 2012
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
The route was bolted by Kurt Smith on lead while Roy McClenahan was free soloing nearby. More details below from Roy himself: Jan 14, 2013
Fat Dad
Los Angeles, CA
Fat Dad   Los Angeles, CA
Poorly named route. Aug 15, 2014
There are some manky spinning button heads on this thing. Got my attention as one was clinking in the wind up against the rock prior to clipping it. I traversed in two bolts of it from WOTW and then back left to the first anchors of WOTW. Made it actually WILD! Also the Vogel guide has it at 10b?? Oct 27, 2014
Taylor Brooks
Los Angeles, Ca
Taylor Brooks   Los Angeles, Ca
Is there a confederate flag hanging from the anchors of this route?
Did Roy McClenahan think of this name? It really should be reconsidered. Jan 4, 2016
Russ Walling
Overlord @ FishProducts
Russ Walling   Overlord @ FishProducts
I think Roy might be African American, so maybe it is ok?? Jan 5, 2016
lou
lou  
Great... now we can't say negro... how bout oriental... indian.. french.... get over it... get some hard bark on ya n man up for christ sake..... if u want to ultra pc .. become a politician.. not a climber... or get the tampex out of your climbing pack Feb 6, 2016
+1 Lou!! Feb 7, 2016
Lou, way to be... incredibly sexist. Why alienate women from the climbing world? Maybe you don't even realize that you're doing it, but by implying that having "tampex" (I assume you mean tampax) in your climbing pack makes you a wuss (my interpretation of your comment), you are not insulting the person your jab was aimed at but instead you are insulting ALL WOMEN (the people who might actually have "tampex" in their pack). Not especially surprising from someone who says things like "man up for christ sake". Do you understand that being a man doesn't make you brave/strong/etc, right? And that being a woman doesn't make you cowardly/weak/etc, right? It's hard to tell from your comments. I may get flamed for this, but I hope someone can appreciate my words.

No one said you can't say negro. You can say whatever the hell you want. Some people just make an effort not to be offensive. Others, not so much. Feb 7, 2016
+1 Shelton Feb 7, 2016
Dallas Branum
Denver, CO
Dallas Branum   Denver, CO
+1 Shelton

You can certainly say whatever you want... but that doesn't make you any less racist, or any less of an asshole. Feb 18, 2016
Roy Mc
Nederland, CO
Roy Mc   Nederland, CO
Hold the phone people. A correction is needed.

Woody Stark misattributed this route. The FA goes to Kurt Smith and Ken Ariza, spring of 1984.

I just checked with Kurt Smith to see what he named it.
The name of the route is: Us and Them. The reference is to a Pink Floyd song.

I was present for the FA, generally being a pain, I soloed up to Kurt as he was drilling the last bolt, but he finished the lead while I waited. Woody must've heard this story and didn't get it quite right, giving me the credit for the FA, which is wrong.

I have no idea how the route became named Negro Girls. It wasn't my route to name. Feb 19, 2016
Taylor Brooks
Los Angeles, Ca
Taylor Brooks   Los Angeles, Ca
Thanks for researching Roy!! Wow, you've uncovered a mystery here!! Kind of a fantastic story in it's own right. Feb 19, 2016
Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
  5.10a R
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
  5.10a R
My first 5.9 lead in JT (1998 and pretty much new to climbing), and it wasn't pretty. Was headed to the 4th bolt and an edge crumbled from underneath me, leading to a long skid and eventually hitting the small horizontal crack/ledge. Broke my ankle. Left with my tail between me legs and a firemans carry to the car. Uggg. Never went back to finish it. Interesting note regarding Kurt. We put up a coulple of routes recently, both 5.9. Named them 'Lucifer Sam' and 'Pink Floyd'. #eastsidesouth Mar 12, 2019