Type: Trad, 105 ft (32 m)
FA: Mike Hatchett, Dave Hatchett, Chris Snyder, Tracy Dorton & Brian Mulvey, 1988
Page Views: 5,247 total · 23/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 6, 2002 · Updates
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Description

One prominent feature on this part of Saddle Rocks is a large left-facing corner system (The Unicorner). Start up that climb for 20 feet then traverse right on a fairly awkward ledge passing a bolt until you reach a spot you can stand up. From here the climbs goes more or less straight up past 7 more bolts on steep, exposed and sometimes a little loose patina plates. There is a slight runout near the top but the climbing is much easier.

Great steep climbing in an exposed atmosphere unlike much of Saddle Rocks which is known for slabs.

  • This was the back cover photo of the 1992 Vogel guide (1st printing).

History

Mike and Dave Hatchett spotted the line, and they and the rest of the team alternated placing bolts on lead. The consensus by the five climbers on the rating was 5.10d, and it was intended as being reported as 5.10c in keeping with Joshua Tree standards. In Randy Vogel's 1992 Joshua Tree guide, Space Mountain was listed as 5.10b. The route was re-bolted in 2015.

Location

This climb lies on the north side of Saddle Rocks, which is around the left skyline as viewed from the road. Approach as for Saddle Rocks proper, but once near the base head left and scramble up talus around to the north face.

Protection

8 bolts, bolted anchor/rap (3/8"), gear to 1.5 inches for the lower part of the climb.

Photos