Type: Trad, 105 ft (32 m)
FA: Mike Hatchett, Dave Hatchett, Chris Snyder, Tracy Dorton & Brian Mulvey, 1988
Page Views: 6,106 total · 23/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 6, 2002 · Updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest

You & This Route

50 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

One prominent feature on this part of Saddle Rocks is a large left-facing corner system (The Unicorner).

 Start up that climb for 20 feet then traverse right on a fairly awkward, slabby ledge passing a bolt until you reach a spot you can stand up. From here the climb goes more or less straight up past 7 more bolts on steep, exposed and sometimes crunchy patina plates.

 There is a slight runout near the top but the climbing is much easier.

Great steep climbing in an exposed atmosphere unlike much of Saddle Rocks which is known for slabs.

  • This was the back cover photo of the 1992 Vogel guide (1st printing).

History Suggest change

Mike and Dave Hatchett spotted the line, and they and the rest of the team alternated placing bolts on lead. The consensus by the five climbers on the rating was 5.10d, and it was intended as being reported as 5.10c in keeping with Joshua Tree standards. In Randy Vogel's 1992 Joshua Tree guide, Space Mountain was listed as 5.10b. 

  • The route was re-bolted in 2015.

Location Suggest change

This climb lies on the north side of Saddle Rocks, which is around the left skyline as viewed from the road. Approach as for Saddle Rocks proper, but once near the base head left and scramble up talus around to the north face.

Protection Suggest change

8 bolts, bolted anchor/rap (3/8"), gear to 1.5 inches for the lower part of the climb.