Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Ken Ariza et al, 1989
Page Views: 5,414 total · 34/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2005
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


63 Opinions

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Description

A semi-classic Josh sport climb that is well worth doing if in the area.

The start may be a little reachy for shorter climbers, but persevere and enjoy the addicting crimps on the upper section of featured face.

The anchors are on the top a few feet back so you'll need to walk off this climb (to the climber's left) and perhaps extend the anchor if top-roping. Three stars out of five.

Location

Directly across from the Exorcist facing east and readily identified as a short, steep brown wall.

Protection

4 bolts to anchors (1/2"). The fixed pin that used to protect between the first and second bolts has been gone for many years, but really isn't necessary.
Adam Stackhouse

  5.11b
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.11b
Easily set up as a TR. Rounded reachy crux before entering the face above, then at the 3rd bolt (or so, as I recall) another crux while moving right. Nice route with nicer rock. Dec 24, 2005
elijah
Santa Barbara, CA
 
elijah   Santa Barbara, CA
 
Steep sport climbers, such as myself, are attracted to this route, but I'm not enthralled by it. It's OK. If you're looking for great sport climbs in this area, face away from Jane's Addiction and walk 100m to Love Goddess, Moonshadow, and La Cholla - harder but better routes. Jan 5, 2009
Murf  
I would think steep sport climbers like yourself would onsite this without a bolt to bolt warm up. Jan 5, 2009
EliotAC
Mill Valley
 
EliotAC   Mill Valley
 
FA was Ken Ariza Jul 22, 2009
Alli
New York, NY
Alli   New York, NY
Has anyone climbed Jane's lately? Am going back for redpoint attempt this weekend... help me get psyched!!! Am nervous due to new soreness in right arm! Feb 22, 2010
I redpointed Jane's this past Sunday. I know the rating stands at 5.11b, but it felt a touch harder than Uncle Remus, which I think is rated the same. Both are about the same length and reasonably similar style. Anyway, really fun route. Just wish it were longer. Feb 7, 2011
The first bolt is missing, looks like it broke. We TR'd this off the third bolt by rapping. Jan 15, 2017
Dimes
Joshua Tree, Ca.
Dimes   Joshua Tree, Ca.
All 4 lead bolts and the belay bolts are now 1/2"" Stainless Steel with stainless steel hangers thanks to the ASCA. Feb 7, 2017