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Routes in West Wall Inner (Jane's Addiction Area)

Avant Cave T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Avant Chain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Avant Savant T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Avant Yvonne (aka Read my Flips) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Avanti T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chain Gang TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Don't Touch Jessica's Crack TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jane's Addiction S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jessica's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Quick Fix T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Read My Lips T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Shaking Hands with the Unemployed T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Smashing Pumpkins S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Ken Ariza et al, 1989
Page Views: 4,678 total, 32/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2005
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A semi-classic Josh sport climb that is well worth doing if in the area.

The start may be a little reachy for shorter climbers, but persevere and enjoy the addicting crimps on the upper section of featured face.

The anchors are on the top a few feet back so you'll need to walk off this climb (to the climber's left) and perhaps extend the anchor if top-roping. Three stars out of five.

Location

Directly across from the Exorcist facing east and readily identified as a short, steep brown wall.

Protection

4 bolts to anchors (1/2"). The fixed pin that used to protect between the first and second bolts has been gone for many years, but really isn't necessary.
Dimes
Joshua Tree, Ca.
Dimes   Joshua Tree, Ca.
All 4 lead bolts and the belay bolts are now 1/2"" Stainless Steel with stainless steel hangers thanks to the ASCA. Feb 7, 2017
The first bolt is missing, looks like it broke. We TR'd this off the third bolt by rapping. Jan 15, 2017
I redpointed Jane's this past Sunday. I know the rating stands at 5.11b, but it felt a touch harder than Uncle Remus, which I think is rated the same. Both are about the same length and reasonably similar style. Anyway, really fun route. Just wish it were longer. Feb 7, 2011
Alli
New York, NY
Alli   New York, NY
Has anyone climbed Jane's lately? Am going back for redpoint attempt this weekend... help me get psyched!!! Am nervous due to new soreness in right arm! Feb 22, 2010
EliotAC
Mill Valley
 
EliotAC   Mill Valley
 
FA was Ken Ariza Jul 22, 2009
Murf  
I would think steep sport climbers like yourself would onsite this without a bolt to bolt warm up. Jan 5, 2009
elijah
Santa Barbara, CA
 
elijah   Santa Barbara, CA
 
Steep sport climbers, such as myself, are attracted to this route, but I'm not enthralled by it. It's OK. If you're looking for great sport climbs in this area, face away from Jane's Addiction and walk 100m to Love Goddess, Moonshadow, and La Cholla - harder but better routes. Jan 5, 2009
Adam Stackhouse

  5.11b
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.11b
Easily set up as a TR. Rounded reachy crux before entering the face above, then at the 3rd bolt (or so, as I recall) another crux while moving right. Nice route with nicer rock. Dec 24, 2005