Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Bob Gaines and Pat Horan, December 1989
Page Views: 258 total · 6/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Apr 13, 2015
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

Located 40 feet right of Avanti.

Climb a steep bulge past 3 horizontals to a slab with 2 bolts. The crux is the start.

Protection

Pro to 2.5 inches, 2 bolts.

2-bolt anchor at the top (Rap 50 ft.)

Photos

dnaiscool  
 
Here's my Pro Beta:

.5 or #1 Tricam to start (...You DO use these, right?...)

Red TCU or Yellow Alien

#2 Camalot

...Then 2 bolts to the top, with a .10- move at the last bolt

So, no need to haul the wall rack up this tidy little gem. I think the heel hook move in that "rock box" is one of the coolest, most novel, little moves in the Monument...er...Park. (I left Cali. when it was still a monument, and there was no road circling Intersection rock.)

I'm glad to see that Bob gives up the .11b, because I thought it was pretty stout and in your face. Better warm up real well, because the flash pump comes a knockin' while you fiddle with the good pro...have a spotter/crash pad...just sayin'...

Best to rap with one rope...fast and less sketchy than the down climb. Apr 14, 2015
Jeffrey Constine
Los Angeles, CA
Jeffrey Constine   Los Angeles, CA
A casual route, bomber pro, no heal hooking needed, no warm-up needed before climbing this classic route. bolts on top for anchor. Jul 10, 2018