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Routes in West Wall Inner (Jane's Addiction Area)

Avant Cave T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Avant Chain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Avant Savant T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Avant Yvonne (aka Read my Flips) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Avanti T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chain Gang TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Don't Touch Jessica's Crack TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jane's Addiction S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jessica's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Quick Fix T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Read My Lips T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Shaking Hands with the Unemployed T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Smashing Pumpkins S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Bob Gaines and Pat Horan, December 1989
Page Views: 168 total, 5/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Apr 13, 2015
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Located 40 feet right of Avanti.

Climb a steep bulge past 3 horizontals to a slab with 2 bolts. The crux is the start.

Protection

Pro to 2.5 inches, 2 bolts.

2-bolt anchor at the top (Rap 50 ft.)

Photos

dnaiscool  
 
Here's my Pro Beta:

.5 or #1 Tricam to start (...You DO use these, right?...)

Red TCU or Yellow Alien

#2 Camalot

...Then 2 bolts to the top, with a .10- move at the last bolt

So, no need to haul the wall rack up this tidy little gem. I think the heel hook move in that "rock box" is one of the coolest, most novel, little moves in the Monument...er...Park. (I left Cali. when it was still a monument, and there was no road circling Intersection rock.)

I'm glad to see that Bob gives up the .11b, because I thought it was pretty stout and in your face. Better warm up real well, because the flash pump comes a knockin' while you fiddle with the good pro...have a spotter/crash pad...just sayin'...

Best to rap with one rope...fast and less sketchy than the down climb. Apr 14, 2015