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Jane's Addiction

5.11b, Sport, 40 ft,  Avg: 3 from 64 votes
FA: Ken Ariza et al, 1989
California > Joshua Tree NP > Sheep Pass Area > Hall of Horrors… > Hall of Horrors > W Wall Inner (Jane's…

Description

A semi-classic Josh sport climb that is well worth doing if in the area.

The start may be a little reachy for shorter climbers, but persevere and enjoy the addicting crimps on the upper section of featured face.

The anchors are on the top a few feet back so you'll need to walk off this climb (to the climber's left) and perhaps extend the anchor if top-roping. Three stars out of five.

Location

Directly across from the Exorcist facing east and readily identified as a short, steep brown wall.

Protection

4 bolts to anchors (1/2"). The fixed pin that used to protect between the first and second bolts has been gone for many years, but really isn't necessary.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Kris Solem climbing Jane's Addiction, ca. 1995.<br>
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Photo by Guy Keesee
[Hide Photo] Kris Solem climbing Jane's Addiction, ca. 1995. Photo by Guy Keesee
The excitement of making that clip can be seen in his eyes.
[Hide Photo] The excitement of making that clip can be seen in his eyes.
Jimmy powers his way through an onsite send of 'Jane's Addiction'...
[Hide Photo] Jimmy powers his way through an onsite send of 'Jane's Addiction'...
Jane's varies a lot in difficulty depending on height and body type. Chelsea Griffie and I did it one time, and there's no way she can make the reach. She did some heinous crimp-fest just left, then rocked up and traversed over to the big round hold under the roof. Pretty amazing.<br>
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But too tall and the reach is good but you can get bunched up getting onto the face. This climb fits me just right. <br>
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Guy Keesee got the pic.
[Hide Photo] Jane's varies a lot in difficulty depending on height and body type. Chelsea Griffie and I did it one time, and there's no way she can make the reach. She did some heinous crimp-fest just l…
Cole on Jane's Addiction 11b
[Hide Photo] Cole on Jane's Addiction 11b
Jane says...
[Hide Photo] Jane says...
Ben L. after taking a particularly bad fall off of Jane's.
[Hide Photo] Ben L. after taking a particularly bad fall off of Jane's.
Had to go back for the redpoint. Really a fun little route.
[Hide Photo] Had to go back for the redpoint. Really a fun little route.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Adam Stackhouse

  5.11b
[Hide Comment] Easily set up as a TR. Rounded reachy crux before entering the face above, then at the 3rd bolt (or so, as I recall) another crux while moving right. Nice route with nicer rock. Dec 24, 2005
elijah
Santa Barbara, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Steep sport climbers, such as myself, are attracted to this route, but I'm not enthralled by it. It's OK. If you're looking for great sport climbs in this area, face away from Jane's Addiction and walk 100m to Love Goddess, Moonshadow, and La Cholla - harder but better routes. Jan 5, 2009
[Hide Comment] I would think steep sport climbers like yourself would onsite this without a bolt to bolt warm up. Jan 5, 2009
EliotAC
Mill Valley
 
[Hide Comment] FA was Ken Ariza Jul 22, 2009
Alli
New York, NY
[Hide Comment] Has anyone climbed Jane's lately? Am going back for redpoint attempt this weekend... help me get psyched!!! Am nervous due to new soreness in right arm! Feb 22, 2010
[Hide Comment] I redpointed Jane's this past Sunday. I know the rating stands at 5.11b, but it felt a touch harder than Uncle Remus, which I think is rated the same. Both are about the same length and reasonably similar style. Anyway, really fun route. Just wish it were longer. Feb 7, 2011
[Hide Comment] The first bolt is missing, looks like it broke. We TR'd this off the third bolt by rapping. Jan 15, 2017
Dimes
Joshua Tree, Ca.
[Hide Comment] All 4 lead bolts and the belay bolts are now 1/2"" Stainless Steel with stainless steel hangers thanks to the ASCA. Feb 7, 2017