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Routes in West Wall Inner (Jane's Addiction Area)

Avant Cave T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Avant Chain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Avant Savant T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Avant Yvonne (aka Read my Flips) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Avanti T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chain Gang TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Don't Touch Jessica's Crack TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jane's Addiction S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jessica's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Quick Fix T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Read My Lips T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Shaking Hands with the Unemployed T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Smashing Pumpkins S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Bob Gaines, November 1990
Page Views: 372 total, 6/month
Shared By: C Miller on Feb 28, 2013
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A bouldery move down low leads to interesting movement up the dimpled face right of Avant Cave to a large fin near the top which is mantled before reaching the anchors.

Location

Just right of Avant Cave.

Protection

3 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap (all 3/8")

Photos

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C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
This route is listed as "Read my Flips" in the 1992 Vogel guidebook, so that's why it is "aka" to help capture the whole history of this route and hopefully reduce confusion. Apr 14, 2015
Bob Gaines  
 
This route was never named "Read my Flips" or "Read My Lips."

We did the FA soon after Roy put up Avant Cave, and we named it Avant Yvonne ... so I'd drop the "AKA Read My Flips."

Maybe the confusion is that I also put up a route about 50 feet to the right named Read My Lips (5.11b). Apr 13, 2015
dnaiscool  
 
I led this in 1991, and we were calling it "Read My Lips", but we could have missed the "F" in "Lips". There was a route just to the right of "Avant Cave" that was quite sustained at .11a, providing a few cruxy sections and a scary first clip. We were calling THAT route "Avant Yvonne." Is there something here that may need consideration? We did many of these routes on a really fine day hanging out with John Yablonski and his girlfriend. He and I had put in a route at Stoney Point called "Walk the Plank", and he was both intense and fun to hang with. Too bad about Yabo...RIP. Apr 12, 2015