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Routes in West Wall Inner (Jane's Addiction Area)

Avant Cave T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Avant Chain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Avant Savant T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Avant Yvonne (aka Read my Flips) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Avanti T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chain Gang TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Don't Touch Jessica's Crack TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jane's Addiction S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jessica's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Quick Fix T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Read My Lips T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Shaking Hands with the Unemployed T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Smashing Pumpkins S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Dave Evans, December 1974
Page Views: 1,235 total · 6/month
Shared By: Mark J. Nelson on Nov 1, 2002
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

Park at the Hall of Horrors pullout, in front of North Horror Rock. Follow the marked trail around to the left, at which point the East Face of the East Wall of the Hall of Horrors will come into view. Keep walking around this rock on the left, then right into the Hall of Horrors proper. The East Face of the West Wall will be on your left.

In the middle of this face is an obvious, short, wide crack. Approach by walking past, then back left to the base of the crack on top of a ledge.

Vertical, reasonable protected, very short.

Descend from chains atop the face to the right. One 50m rope will get you all the way past the base of the climb and back to the ground.

Protection

Standard rack up to #4 Camalot; save the #4 for the belay anchor.

Photos

David Evans
  5.6
David Evans  
  5.6
This route was not named after Jessica (?) who was Bullwinkle's girlfriend for awhile. It is named after an early slutty girlfriend of mine who had just rejected me in favor of a big geeky knucklehead (Bearamiah Butt Fu..). Not that I'm still bitter! The route at the time of my FA solo was loose and pilish. Mar 17, 2004
Can't reccomend this one, very unpleasant crack climbing with tricky and dubious pro placements. Not reccomended for begining leaders and a boring top rope.Go and do Lickety Splits instead. Oct 1, 2004
namascar
  5.6
namascar  
  5.6
Despite the rate, it is not a climb for beginners. The top can be awkward for them. But the protection is super bomber everywhere. Jan 24, 2005
Dustysdawg
  5.6
Dustysdawg  
  5.6
The only problem with this route is that it is too short. The gear is bomber. The beginning is fun crack/face climbing. The top is a great introduction to off-width crack climbing. The biggest cam you need is only a 3.5. Go on up and get in it!!! Jan 24, 2005
David Evans
  5.6
David Evans  
  5.6
I named this route after an early (neurotic) girlfriend (well at least I thought I wanted her as such) who done me wrong. On the FA the crack was VERY loose (like her). It must have cleaned up to get any stars at all. Jan 27, 2005
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
My only problem with this climb is that it's too damn short. Otherwise, a fun little route. May 19, 2007
Gary Schenk
  5.6
Gary Schenk  
  5.6
I liked it. Mar 17, 2010

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