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Routes in West Wall Inner (Jane's Addiction Area)

Avant Cave T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Avant Chain S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Avant Savant T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Avant Yvonne (aka Read my Flips) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Avanti T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chain Gang TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Don't Touch Jessica's Crack TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jane's Addiction S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jessica's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Quick Fix T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Read My Lips T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Shaking Hands with the Unemployed T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Smashing Pumpkins S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Roy McClenahan, Walt Shipley & Bill Russell, 1989
Page Views: 341 total · 5/month
Shared By: C Miller on Feb 28, 2013
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Starting from a large hueco climb the nice patina face up and left past some cryptic moves to finish with a section of grainy friction where the rock changes color. Belay atop Jesssica's Crack for best results.

This route, like Avant Chain, used to sport chain link hangers, which fortunately are long gone now.

Location

Right of Jessica's Crack in the middle of the face and just right of Avant Savant.

Protection

3 bolts (all 3/8"), gear to 3" for belay

Photos

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dnaiscool  
 
The climbing low on this is very cool, and the route would get more stars were it not for the unfortunate state of the stone in the upper third. The route is, however, well worth a run if you are climbing at that level. Apr 12, 2015
dnaiscool  
 
Pretty sure I placed a nest of stoppers #5-10 in the crack before the first bolt. The .11c is at that first bolt, followed by more .11 just past the second bolt. Apr 12, 2015

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