All Locations > California > Joshua Tree NP > Lost Horse Area > Lost Horse Rdsi… > Hemingway Buttress > Hemingway Buttress -…

White Lightning

Name: White Lightning
Rating: 3.0

5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British

Routes in Hemingway Buttress - E Face L

L › R R › L A › Z

	Ant Farm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Coyote Bait T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Dung Fu T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Feltonian Physics T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Funky Dung T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Gift Wrapped TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Golden Years T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Hernie, Hernie, Hernie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Horn Dog T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Man's Best Friend T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Merry-Go-Round Broke Down T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	More Funky Than Junky T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Old Man and the Arete, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Overseer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Overseer Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Pig in Heat T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
	Poodles are People Too T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Poodlesby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Prepackaged T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Roadrunner, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Rock Wren T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Sea Monkeys T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Smoke-a-Bowl T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Such a Poodle T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Sun Also Rises, The T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	White Lightning T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

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Type:	Trad, 120 ft (36 m)
GPS:	34.02386, -116.17782
FA:	Chris Wegener and Roy Naasz, March 1973
Page Views:	30,768 total · 108/month
Shared By:	C Miller on Jul 8, 2002 · Updates
Admins:	Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

This is a great climb at a wall with many fine crack routes. Everyone should do this climb at least once as it is a good introduction to crack climbing and Joshua Tree in general. Pictures of this climb are in the instructional book Learning to Rock Climb by Michael Loughman.

Start at the base of a vertical crack system that runs up almost all of the cliff. At the bottom of this crack is a rectangular shaped block that leans to the left.

Climb the classic crack straight up, moving slightly left near the top. People frequently mistake the perhaps more obvious righthand crack at the top as the finish. This is the finish of Poodles are People too and is 5.9.

Rappel 120 feet from anchors 20 feet right of the finish (a 70m gets you down with only a few feet to spare) or walk right and rap from anchors atop The Importance of Being Ernest with one rope (75 feet).