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WM: Waterville Valley Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in WM: Waterville Valley

Cone Head Ledge 16 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17

Dickey Notch 17 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17

Goodrich Rock Trail 5 / 0 / 3 / 54 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 58

Greeley Ponds 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Mount Osceola 19 / 26 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18 / 45

Noon Peak 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Scaur, The 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Smarts Brook Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5

Welch and Dickey Area 50 / 12 / 1 / 36 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 99

Yellowjacket Area 26 / 18 / 5 / 64 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 109

Explore this area in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	2,000 ft	610 m
GPS:	43.91799, -71.58519 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	487,788 total · 2,838/month
Shared By:	Jay Knower on Oct 26, 2011
Admins:	Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Waterville Valley was rightfully considered a climbing backwater, that is until the pandemic hit. Since then, development has continued unabated, and it has unearthed (literally) some really fantastic climbing. From the sweeping slabs of Dickie Ledge, to the forested mini-crags of Bald Knob/Yellowjacket; from the roadside sport climbing at Russell Crags (in Merriam Woods), to the soaring alpine cracks of Mt Osceola, and oh yeah... ice at Fletchers Cascade! There's likely something for everyone in them thar' hills.

There's still a lot of untouched rock out there: some of it is good, some of it is terrible, and some of it is completely inaccessible. But people keep looking, hoping to stumble upon the next Waimea*, but more likely finding solitude, beautiful mountain views, and a profound respect for the uniqueness of the Waterville Valley area.

*If you read the previous version of this page, you'll know that I said we're all looking for the next Main Cliff. We found it here! So now we're looking for the next Waimea.

Getting There

Most of the climbing is accessed from Highway 49, which is Exit 28 of Interstate 93, or accessed off Tripoli Road, which is Exit 31 of Interstate 93. Tripoli Road is closed from November through May.

355 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at WM: Waterville Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

V5 6C 13 ● Trillium Boulder Yellowjacket Area > Yellowjacket Boulder
V5+ 6C+ 8 ● Trillium Sit Boulder Yellowjacket Area > Yellowjacket Boulder
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 11 ● Lurking in the Bushes Trad Welch & Dickey… > Dickey Ledge > 06. The Dark Side
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 10 ● Never lonesome Trad Yellowjacket Area > … > Slablands > 2- Divination Slab
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 11 ● Exposure Therapy Sport Mt Osceola > Exile Crag > Cloudbreak
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 14 ● Journey to Lost World Trad 2 pitches Yellowjacket Area > … > Slablands > 4- Bald Knob Cliff AK…
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 13 ● Resident Evil Trad Welch & Dickey… > Dickey Ledge > 06. The Dark Side
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 8 ● Nightmare on Slab Street Sport Yellowjacket Area > … > Slablands > 4- Bald Knob Cliff AK…
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 11 ● Hang Tenish Sport Mt Osceola > Exile Crag > Cloudbreak
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 16 ● Sex on the Beach Sport Welch & Dickey… > Dickey Ledge > 02. The Ocean
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 11 ● Learn to Swim Sport 2 pitches Welch & Dickey… > Dickey Ledge > 02. The Ocean
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 8 ● Subversive Behavior Sport Welch & Dickey… > Dickey Ledge > 02. The Ocean
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a 7 ● Brain Cramp Trad Welch & Dickey… > Dickey Ledge > 02. The Ocean
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 11 ● The Swordfighter Sport, Alpine Mt Osceola > High Camp Crags > High Camp Cliff
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 5 ● Members Only Sport Welch & Dickey… > Dickey Ledge > 02. The Ocean