Mountain Project: Climbing Index Town Walls

Index contains possibly Washington's best granite climbing. The routes range from shorter single-pitch routes to long 500'-high walls. Although the main attraction of the area for most is the spectacular crack climbing (fine-grained granite that makes gorgeous cracks that are much less abrasive than J-Tree or Leavenworth), there is also some sport climbing and many aid routes. Although rain can be an issue (it is western Washington), summer conditions are often ideal and some routes can still be done in a light drizzle.

Getting There

Drive east on Highway 2 and turn left onto the road that leads to Index Town. After the bridge, turn left at the stop sign and continue along the small road (past the shooting range). There will be a parking lot on the right. Out of the parking lot, you cross the train tracks. A couple more steps and the Lower Town Wall is right there. Other areas might require longer approaches.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Index Town Walls:

Aires 5.8+ Trad, 5 pitches, 250 feet, Grade II Lower Town Wall : Great Northern Slab

Godzilla 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch Lower Town Wall : Main Wall

Toxic Shock 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch Inner Walls

GM Route 5.9 Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II The Country

Princely Ambitions 5.9 Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II Lower Town Wall : Main Wall

Breakfast of Champions 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet Lower Town Wall : Great Northern Slab

Sagittarius 5.10a/b Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet Lower Town Wall : Main Wall

Davis-Holland Route 5.10c Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III Upper Town Wall : Central Wall Area

Lovin' Arms 5.10c A0 Trad, Aid, 3 pitches Upper Town Wall : Central Wall Area

Slow Children 5.10d Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Lower Town Wall : Main Wall

Cunning Stunt 5.10d Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet The Country

Thin Fingers 5.11a Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet Lower Town Wall : Main Wall

Heaven's Gate 5.11a Trad, Sport, 4 pitches Upper Town Wall : Dana's Arch Area

Even Steven 5.11b Trad, 1 pitch Inner Walls

Model Worker 5.11c Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet Lower Town Wall : Main Wall

Kite Flying Blind 5.11c Sport, 2 pitches, 200 feet The Country

Natural Log Cabin 5.11c R Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet Lower Town Wall : Main Wall

Japanese Gardens 5.11+ Trad, 1 pitch, 200 feet Lower Town Wall : Main Wall

Iron Horse 5.11d Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet Lower Town Wall : Main Wall

Stern Farmer 5.12b Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet Lower Town Wall : Main Wall

Comments on Index Town Walls

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Comments displayed oldest to newest — Skip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 12, 2012

By jonah
Feb 9, 2006

Everybody should get Darryl Cramer's excellent guide to the area, Sky Valley Rock. But for a temporary guide if you can't find his, try: www.stanford.edu/~clint/index/
Not as user friendly, but gives you an idea of the area.

By Spanish John
Mar 21, 2006

This is probably one of the most underrated climbing areas around; I hope it stays that way. I learned to climb there; I hope the climbing and the town never change.

By Eric8
From: boston
Apr 15, 2008

Most locals think the town walls are better than the cookie.

By dscramer
Dec 30, 2008

The FA dates for routes in the 1980s in both the Smoot and Cummins guides are for the most part very inaccurate. For example, the FFA of Clay was after 1984 and Sonic Reducer was climbed well before 1984.

By Drewsky
Dec 31, 2008

Edit: I took the FA dates out of most of the routes I've added because I have no independent knowledge of when they were climbed. I'll stick to giving first hand info about routes I've done or have had experience with.

By Paul Shultz
From: Caldwell, NJ
Mar 15, 2009

I climbed here on the way back to Bellingham from the Bugaboos. I didn't do to many routes but its a gorgeous setting and I'd love to go back!

By Mike Rowley
Jan 21, 2011

Anyone have any information on EARLY spring climbing at Index? A buddy and I were thinking of heading up either late Jan or early Feb... What is weather typically like this time of year? Climbable? I appreciate any info!

By dscramer
Jan 21, 2011

Mike - I've climbed in a T-shirt and fully bundled up for winter conditions at Index this time of year. Usually it's pretty wet and not too cold. If the weather hasn't been clear for a week I would say it would not be worth the trip up from Smith unless you wanted to aid climb. You can free climb pretty quickly after the rains stop, it's just that your choice of routes is pretty limited.

By Kevin Volkening
Jun 30, 2011

Looking to do a mid summer trip (middle of July) and this looks to be a good cool option which isn't baking. Thoughts?

By David Sahalie
From: las cruces, nm
Feb 12, 2012

I've never seen an area with so many 4 start routes! practically every one!

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Index Town Walls

Description

Getting There

The Classics