Mountain Project: Climbing Index Town Walls

Index contains possibly Washington's best granite climbing. The routes range from shorter single-pitch routes to long 500'-high walls. Although the main attraction of the area for most is the spectacular crack climbing (fine-grained granite that makes gorgeous cracks that are much less abrasive than J-Tree or Leavenworth), there is also some sport climbing and many aid routes. Although rain can be an issue (it is western Washington), summer conditions are often ideal and some routes can still be done in a light drizzle.

Getting There

Drive east on Highway 2 and turn left onto the road that leads to Index Town. After the bridge, turn left at the stop sign and continue along the small road (past the shooting range). There will be a parking lot on the right. Out of the parking lot, you cross the train tracks. A couple more steps and the Lower Town Wall is right there. Other areas might require longer approaches.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Index Town Walls:

Aires 5.8+ Trad, 5 pitches, 250 feet, Grade II Lower Wall : Great Northern Slab

Toxic Shock 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch Inner Walls

GM Route 5.9 Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II Lower Wall : The Country

Godzilla 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch Lower Wall : Main Wall

Princely Ambitions 5.9 Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II Lower Wall : Main Wall

Breakfast of Champions 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet Lower Wall : Great Northern Slab

Sagittarius 5.10a/b Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet Lower Wall : Main Wall

Davis-Holland Route 5.10c Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III Upper Town Wall

Lovin' Arms 5.10c A0 Trad, Aid, 3 pitches Upper Town Wall

Cunning Stunt 5.10d Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Lower Wall : The Country

Dr. Sniff and the Tuna Boaters 5.10d Trad Lower Wall : Main Wall

Zoom 5.10d Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Lower Wall : The Country

Sloe Children 5.10d Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Lower Wall : Main Wall

Heaven's Gate 5.11a Trad, 4 pitches Upper Town Wall

Thin Fingers 5.11a Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet Lower Wall : Main Wall

Even Steven 5.11b Trad, 1 pitch Inner Walls

Model Worker 5.11c Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet Lower Wall : Main Wall

Kite Flying Blind 5.11c Sport, 2 pitches, 200 feet Lower Wall : The Country

Japanese Gardens 5.11+ Trad, 1 pitch, 200 feet Lower Wall : Main Wall

Iron Horse 5.11d Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet Lower Wall : Main Wall

Featured Route For Index Town Walls

Shifting to headpoint in the middle of a Model Worker redpoint. <br /><br />K Miller is about to clip an upside down knifeblade(left draw) and two opposed, brass, micro-nuts(right draw). This crux pro is all delicately slipped under a thin flake that eventually requires yarding on like the Incredible Hulk. <br /><br />Only needed a small hit of traditude since there's an unseen bolt at Kirk's waste. <br /><br /><br />

Model Worker 5.11c WA : Index Town Walls : ... : Main Wall

This terrific pitch is best done as one long pitch, skip the first anchors where there used to be a stump(thanks for removing this!!!) The crux is just before the first bolt on the upper section, and is protected by small cams or nuts. Although, I think the lower part is just as hard. This climb is probably damn near impossible for short people, unless you are good at sideways shoulder wrenching dynos....[more] Browse More Classics in WA

Comments on Index Town Walls

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By jonah
Feb 9, 2006

Everybody should get Darryl Cramer's excellent guide to the area, Sky Valley Rock. But for a temporary guide if you can't find his, try: http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/index/
Not as user friendly, but gives you an idea of the area.

By Spanish John
Mar 21, 2006

This is probably one of the most underrated climbing areas around; I hope it stays that way. I learned to climb there; I hope the climbing and the town never change.

By Eric8
From: boston
Apr 15, 2008

Most locals think the town walls are better than the cookie.

By dscramer
Dec 30, 2008

The FA dates for routes in the 1980s in both the Smoot and Cummins guides are for the most part very inaccurate. For example, the FFA of Clay was after 1984 and Sonic Reducer was climbed well before 1984.

By Drewsky
Dec 31, 2008

Edit: I took the FA dates out of most of the routes I've added because I have no independent knowledge of when they were climbed. I'll stick to giving first hand info about routes I've done or have had experience with.

By Paul Shultz
From: Caldwell, NJ
Mar 15, 2009

I climbed here on the way back to Bellingham from the Bugaboos. I didn't do to many routes but its a gorgeous setting and I'd love to go back!

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Index Town Walls

Description

Getting There

The Classics