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Cerberus Gendarme
Routes Sorted
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Cave Route T 
Cherry Crack T 
Cynthia's Hand Job T 
Dire Wolf T 
Electrica T,S 
Fails of Power T 
Fat Hedral, The T 
Flip of a Coin T 
Intruder T 
Mean High Tide T 
No Holds Barred T 
Scarlet Begonias T 
Squeeze Play T 
Tales of Flails T,S 
Touchstone Wall T 

Cave Route 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Jim Dunn
Page Views: 6,161
Submitted By: EricD on Jan 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (64)
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Description 

Route furthest to the left on Gendarme. Starts off as an awkward face climb, protectable with the large crack. Some mantles and edges lead to a beautiful hand crack in a dihedral. Another mantle leads to chains and a cave. This route can also be top-roped by walking through the cave from behind the formation.

Protection 

Big stuff (#4, #3 BD cams) to start and a couple #2s for the hand crack. Something small can be useful at the top. Chain anchors.


Photos of Cave Route Slideshow Add Photo
Cave Route from the base.  The route follows the large crack (not the one with gear in it).  The cave is at the top on the left.
BETA PHOTO: Cave Route from the base. The route follows the l...
Runout if you don't have a #4
Runout if you don't have a #4
Clark, starting up
Clark, starting up
Last couple of moves before the chains.
Last couple of moves before the chains.
Clark working through the hands section.
Clark working through the hands section.
Climbing Stuff
Climbing Stuff

Comments on Cave Route Add Comment
Show which comments
By kBobby
From: Spokane, WA
Apr 11, 2006

The flakes to the right offer a nice variation (5.8ish) to the start.
By George Vigeon
From: Bend, OR
Jun 6, 2008

Kinda goofy but fun. A Camalot 4 for the first pod is optional and after that #2, 3, .75, and a .4 right before the chains. Rap the route or walk off into the cave, part of the charm of the route.
By Dean Cool
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 10, 2008

I agree the #4 is optional but you will need to run out about 15-17' before you place your first piece.
By Nate Brown
From: Wilson, Wy
Aug 6, 2009

this route rules. Don't overlook the second pitch. one of the only 5.8 roofs in Zion! also, an alternate start to Mean High Tide. Clint Eastwood rules.
By Jared R
Mar 1, 2010

Fun route. There are some really cool and different moves on this route that make it really fun. The jams are good and the mantels are fun. I recommend doing it.
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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 5, 2010
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

5.7++++++ but totally fun. I dropped a #5 camalot in at the bottom.
By Dann R
From: Hermosa Beach, ca
Jul 9, 2013

I agree. The first half is probably 5.6. Then, at the top half before chains, it's a possible 5.8.
By Tyson W.
From: South Lake Tahoe, CA
Nov 9, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

If this is 5.7, Ashtar Command must be 5.6

I thought it was pretty cool... was expecting a sandbag from the guidebook description... and it definitely did not disappoint!