Login with Facebook
Cerberus Gendarme
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cave Route T 
Cherry Crack T 
Cynthia's Hand Job T 
Dire Wolf T 
Electrica T,S 
Fails of Power T 
Fat Hedral, The T 
Flip of a Coin T 
Intruder T 
Mean High Tide T 
No Holds Barred T 
Scarlet Begonias T 
Squeeze Play T 
Tales of Flails T 
Touchstone Wall T 

Cave Route 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Jim Dunn
Page Views: 7,504
Submitted By: EricD on Jan 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (77)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [2 people like this page.]
Racked up with a view. (Nikon PL510)

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


Route furthest to the left on Gendarme. Starts off as an awkward face climb, protectable with the large crack. Some mantles and edges lead to a beautiful hand crack in a dihedral. Another mantle leads to chains and a cave. This route can also be top-roped by walking through the cave from behind the formation.


Big stuff (#4, #3 BD cams) to start and a couple #2s for the hand crack. Something small can be useful at the top. Chain anchors.

Photos of Cave Route Slideshow Add Photo
Yoga helps.
Yoga helps.
Runout if you don't have a #4
Runout if you don't have a #4
Clark, starting up. (Nikon PL510)
Clark, starting up. (Nikon PL510)
Cave Route from the base.  The route follows the l...
BETA PHOTO: Cave Route from the base. The route follows the l...
Clark working through the hands section. (Nikon PL...
Clark working through the hands section. (Nikon PL...
Climbing Stuff
Climbing Stuff
Last couple of moves before the chains. (Iphone 4)
Last couple of moves before the chains. (Iphone 4)
Offdwidthin' on the Cave Route.
Offdwidthin' on the Cave Route.

Comments on Cave Route Add Comment
Show which comments
By kBobby
From: Spokane, WA
Apr 11, 2006

The flakes to the right offer a nice variation (5.8ish) to the start.
By George Vigeon
From: Bend, OR
Jun 6, 2008

Kinda goofy but fun. A Camalot 4 for the first pod is optional and after that #2, 3, .75, and a .4 right before the chains. Rap the route or walk off into the cave, part of the charm of the route.
By Dean Cool
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 10, 2008

I agree the #4 is optional but you will need to run out about 15-17' before you place your first piece.
By Nate Brown
From: Wilson, Wy
Aug 6, 2009

this route rules. Don't overlook the second pitch. one of the only 5.8 roofs in Zion! also, an alternate start to Mean High Tide. Clint Eastwood rules.
By Jared R
Mar 1, 2010

Fun route. There are some really cool and different moves on this route that make it really fun. The jams are good and the mantels are fun. I recommend doing it.
--- Invalid image id: 106687119 ---
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 5, 2010
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

5.7++++++ but totally fun. I dropped a #5 camalot in at the bottom.
By Dann R
From: Hermosa Beach, ca
Jul 9, 2013

I agree. The first half is probably 5.6. Then, at the top half before chains, it's a possible 5.8.
By Tyson Waldron
From: Reno, NV
Nov 9, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

If this is 5.7, Ashtar Command must be 5.6

I thought it was pretty cool... was expecting a sandbag from the guidebook description... and it definitely did not disappoint!
By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 19, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I thought this route was very underrated. Great rock quality, fun moves and position. Just don't hop on it if you're a 5.7 leader.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!