The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
As the guide says; Very Steep and sustained figer stacks through a small roof. Featured on the of Climbing #128. The stacks on this climb are amazing/good. But to prepare for this climb I will suggest placing your thumb in a vice for a few hours. Do that every day for 2 weeks and you are ready. You get a lot on this climb for 60 feet. Oh and there is one hand jam on it, but it not that great. But hafter 45 feet of stacks, it most welcome. If you have nice small and thin hands you can hand jam.
Location
From the base of the buttress head to the left and around. It is the climb before Layaway Plan. You can't miss it, because when you walk by you say to your self 'Oh My God, I got to get on that'
Protection
For the BD crew: 8 to 10 green camalots and 2 or 3 one camalots. For the WC crew 8 to 10 1.5 friends and 2 to 3 2.0 friends.
You get 2 really good hand jams, one below the roof and one past it in the pod. Also, don't bring that much gear. Remember an orange tcu size for after the pod and the rest is .75s(9 max). If you don't have that many then you can definitely fit 1, maybe 2 #2 friends, but no #1 camalots.
By LeeAB Administrator From: ABQ, NM Aug 18, 2008 rating: 5.12
8-#.75 camalots, 1-#2 friend (below the roof in a pod) and a yellow alien when the crack thins at the top.
I thought the crux was placing gear on the first half of the route. Having to place thoughs cams with almost all my wait on one stack was some what unplesent
it is easy to look up at the roof and totally overlook the start, which is tougher than it looks. i thought the crux was getting to the first hand jam. placing gear off of a big 3 fingered thumb stack, or in some cases a very tight hand jam with slippery feet was kind of intense. a very do-able route thought, as you can break it down into realistic sections.
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