PRINT: Rock Climb Slice and Dice, Indian Creek

Slice and Dice

5.12, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 3.9 from 160 votes
FA: Steve Petro and Gordon Douglass
Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Way Rambo

Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! Details

2025 Raptor Avoidance Areas. blm.gov/announcement/blm-as…

Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…

For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.

Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Access Issue: Way Putter/Nutter route Permanently Closed Details

The route Way Putter/Nutter has been permanently closed.
Please do not climb this route in order to protect cultural resources.
Climbing The Nutter/Way Putter damages sensitive cultural resources. Please stay within the designated trail, and keep dogs on leash in this area.
Access Fund and BLM conducted a site visit and have mutually agreed this route should be closed for cultural resource protection. If you have any questions or concerns please contact the Monticello BLM Field Office: apefferman@blm.gov

Description

As the guide says; very steep and sustained finger stacks through a small roof. Featured on the cover of Climbing #128. The stacks on this climb are amazing/good. But to prepare for this climb I would suggest placing your thumb in a vice for a few hours. Do that every day for 2 weeks and you are ready. You get a lot on this climb for 60 feet. Oh and there is one hand jam on it, but it not that great. But after 45 feet of stacks, it most welcome. If you have nice small and thin hands you can hand jam.

Location

From the base of the buttress head to the left and around. It is the climb before Layaway Plan. You can't miss it, because when you walk by you say to your self 'Oh My God, I got to get on that'

Protection

For the BD crew: 8 to 10 green camalots and 2 or 3 one camalots.
For the WC crew 8 to 10 1.5 friends and 2 to 3 2.0 friends.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

slice and dice

Tom on Slice and Dice

Slice and dice

Slice and Dice, Layaway Plan is the left corner through the roof. What a great wall.

Will "The Naz" Nazerian, taking a Zen-like approach to the crux of Slice 'n Dice (IC/Way Rambo Wall/Slice 'n Dice 5.12)

slice and dice

Looking up the route.

Some beta on how to top rope princess your way up slice and dice

Turning the roof, this is surprisingly easy compared to other sections.

Nearing the nice resting pod in the middle of the route.

Brendan on Slice and Dice

Moving into the upper flare.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tortilla
Fakeville, USA

You get 2 really good hand jams, one below the roof and one past it in the pod. Also, don't bring that much gear. Remember an orange tcu size for after the pod and the rest is .75s(9 max). If you don't have that many then you can definitely fit 1, maybe 2 #2 friends, but no #1 camalots. Aug 23, 2006

LeeAB Brinckerhoff
Austin, TX

5.12

8-#.75 camalots, 1-#2 friend (below the roof in a pod) and a yellow alien when the crack thins at the top. Aug 18, 2008

Brad G

I thought the crux was placing gear on the first half of the route. Having to place thoughs cams with almost all my wait on one stack was some what unplesent Dec 1, 2008

slim

5.12a

it is easy to look up at the roof and totally overlook the start, which is tougher than it looks. i thought the crux was getting to the first hand jam. placing gear off of a big 3 fingered thumb stack, or in some cases a very tight hand jam with slippery feet was kind of intense. a very do-able route thought, as you can break it down into realistic sections. May 18, 2009

Robert Mooring
Lafayette

I felt the crux was down low where the feet blank out- the roof is hard but has good feet. Oct 12, 2010

Scott Bennett
Western North America

5.12-

Agree that this route is not as hard as it looks. There end up being quite a few good rests, including a no-hands if you step right about 20' up. Still a great route! Oct 28, 2010

acouncell
Estes Park, CO

The anchors should be replaced soon. The hanger on the left bolt spins but may only need tightening. The right bolt, however, wiggles easily if you test it with your fingers. Until these bolts are replaced or beefed up, if you want an added measure of safety, just take along an extra .75 camalot or equivalent to back up the anchor. Just a heads up, have fun! Oct 30, 2010

slim

5.12a

couple notes from doing this route again recently. you can pretty much place .75 camalots anywhere on the route. if you don't have a pile of these, then there are some other options. i used only #2 friends to get up to the first pod, and then .75 camalots above. you can also use anwhere between a .3 camalot and .5 camalot above the 2nd pod. this will help save those .75's, which will be trying to fly off of your rack and into the crack.

this would be a great first IC 12, or a good one if you are a strong sport climber who hasn't done a lot of crack climbing. you can easily break it down into several sections with great rests. also it is short and has good stances for placing gear and then shooting for the next stance.

normally i'm not really into repeating routes, but this one is a lot of fun and i would do it again. Nov 2, 2011

Gabe De La Rosa
Santa Barbara, CA

For those without $400 invested in green camalots: I felt pretty comfortable on redpoint goes with 6 0.75s (actually one was a red metolius...), a #1, and a small (0.3-0.4) piece for the top that I skipped on my redpoint. Three greens for the low section to the handjam (You can place 4 and then backclean the last), a red camalot for the pod below the roof, two greens (or one green and one red metolius high) between the roof and the wide pod, the first bumped as high above the roof as possible, and the last green just above the pod before the crack pinches and runs right (the small cam can go here too). I'd want more if I was dogging/unconfident on stacks. Oct 1, 2020

Sarah Lydecker
Portland, OR

And then Jesus did stack his hands and put his sandaled feet into the crack. When the crack did narrow to .75 he raised his eyes toward the heavens and did say, "Lord, why have you forsaken me?"

Then Matthew, Mark, Luke, and John smeared their toes upon the sandstone and wept. “We are but grains of sand in the rock. Alone, we are weak and fallible, but with Jesus .75 Cam Christ, we will hold strong and not crumple in the face of devil smears.”

When they came down from the route, Jesus took their bloody hands and dirty feet and washed them. He retaped their fingers and trimmed their toenails. Then he looked at his disciples and looked back to the rock. He pointed to a thin crack called Slice and Dice and said “this is my body, broken for you. May you send hard and jam well in the sandstone. That continuous .75 crack is the path to salvation, upon which ye shall be tested and upon which upon ye shall find salvation.” May 9, 2022

Jarrett Daffern

Amazing splitter ring-locks, only issue is I don't think I know how to ring lock properly... my finger is still partly numb three days later. Stay safe! Oct 19, 2022