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(2) Hanging Gardens
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B.F.D. 
Chockstone Chimney 
Edges and Ledges 
From Something to Nothing 
Fun in the Mud 
Giant's Staircase 
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Hammer, The 
Hanging Gardens Route 
Hobbit Hole 
Loose Block Overhang 
Sandy's Direct 
Scorpion Seam 
Sesame Street 
Sickle, The 
Slapfest 
slow drag (loose block overhang variation) 
So Embarrassing 
Tips City 
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Tips City 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim Olsen, Jay Kerr-1979
Page Views: 875
Submitted By: Adam Therneau on Jun 9, 2007
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Tips City

Description 

This awesome fingercrack will test not only your crack technique but your ability to place gear from strenuous positions. It looks straightforward from the ground, but the difficult fingercrack down low builds a pump quickly. Hanging out to get in a piece at the top with one fingerlock and nothing but smears for your feet leaves most redlined for what looks like a simple exit, but heartbreakingly turns out to be the crux of the route. After you finesse the weird, slopey exit to the crack the climbing becomes much mellower but still fun as you negotiate easy terrain and then one final weird 5.9 chimney/stem move to reach the top.


Location 

Locate the obvious clean fingercrack about 20 feet to the right of the popular Hammer and Sickle routes on the far left end of the Hanging Gardens wall.


Protection 

Gear to 1" with extra .4-.5" pieces for the splitter fingercrack down low.



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By Ian G.
From: PDX, OR
Apr 16, 2010
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

At the chimney/stem move at the top, do not head right or you will be in a world of hurt!

By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Taipei, TW
May 3, 2012

Heard of a guy decking off this route and sustaining a compound fracture. Be careful up there.