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El Capitan is home to numerous classic routes but "The Nose" is the mega classic of them all. Towering nearly 3000' this route offers 31 pitches of superb climbing right up the middle of the wall. Often referred to as the "best rock climb in the world" it is obvious why this route is one of the most sought after big walls in the valley and the world. Most of the pitches on this route are outstanding but with classics such as the "Stovelegs", "King Swing" and "Great Roof" you'll wish it would never end. Although this is a great climb the route is still very demanding, sustained and exposed and not to be taken lightly.
Here are a few tips that might improve a parties chances of success and enjoyment on the route. First if you and or your partner(s) can lead 5.10 solidly this will greatly speed up the amount of time it takes to climb this route as a large percentage of the climb is 5.10 or easier. Second study the topo carefully because there are numerous opportunities to either link or use alternate belays in order to skip pitches (a team of three can also skip hauling certain pitches with some good planning). Unavoidable factors are the number of parties on the route and the weather, both of which can make the route not so classic. For pitch by pitch info and topo's the "Yosemite Big Walls Supertopo" guide book is highly recommended.
This is probably one of the easiest big wall approaches you could ask for. From El Capitan Meadow cross the road and find one of the obvious approach trails which should lead to a clearing. From the clearing you should be able to find a well worn path leading north and slightly west towards the wall. Once at the base of the wall you'll be standing directly under "The Nose". Hike up and left around the foot of the wall until it is possible to traverse back right and you should end up on a nice dirt ledge and at the start of the first pitch. This approach takes about 10 to 15 minutes.
Bring two sets of nuts with offsets, one or two sets of micro nuts with offsets and two or three sets of cams from .5" to 3.5". Also bring some micro cams and a 4.5" cam, leave the hammer and pins at home this route goes all clean.
The belay after the Great Roof pitch
Starting up Pancake Flake
Nose bros..."A-man" and "Spider"
Robert Anderson late 70's on The Nose
Photo Olaf M...
The Great Roof!
Brad Peterson getting ready to jug off the Dolt To...
Karsten leading pitch 4 with climbers above in the...
Evening at edge of the great roof.
C4 (the other C4)
Jugging high up on the Nose. Can't remember what ...
The Huber brothers on their speed record. One on ...
The shadow of the Nose in the early morning
Bruce Anderson on pitch 31...
Climbers on the nose
Climber on the route just to the right of the Grea...
Climber on the first pitch of the Nose while El ca...
About to complete the King Swing.
Photo by Tom Ev...
Bob Horan starting up the Nose.
Bob Horan approaching the Great Roof.
Bob Horan free climbing in the upper dihedrals.
Bob Horan and Mike Lowe topping out the Captain. !...
Chris Vultaggio on lower pitches of the Nose.
Last pitch on the nose. I'm following and bares is...
Hans cruzin' up the stove legs ...
Brad sticking the Swing in style, just under halfw...
Me leading on the last pitch of the Nose on our 6....
behind Texas Flake
P28+29 super fun free climbing 2500' off the groun...
Below the Boot
El Cap Tower, 1979
Terry, stemming on the pitch below Camp 5
The Great Roof.
Photo: Corey Gargano
Photo: Corey Gargano
sickle ledge, the nose el capitan 5.9+/A2 *****
looking up the nose from sickle ledge
After the King Swing, with Alan Cooney
Camp 4 bivi
Steve Eddy, Dolt Hole, 1973
Me leading the pitch before the Great Roof - in th...
Nick and Jake tidying up on Dolt Tower
Waking up on dolt.
Texas flake anyone!!!
Great roof is greater than great!!! :)
Think this pic speaks for itself!!!
Mar 6, 2007
Probably the finest rock climb in the world...I usually start with Pine Line, seems like a "cleaner" haul to the first pitch.
From: city, state
May 14, 2007
Climbed it 9 years ago...great adventure. Do whatever you need to to climb this route. Few, if any, better
|By George Bell|
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 4, 2007
Can be very crowded during peak season. When I climbed it there were seven people sleeping at El Cap Tower, and a similar number at Camp V.
|By Bruce Diffenbaugh|
Feb 20, 2008
For sure the most famous route in the valley if not the world.Climbing The Nose was a goal for me for years one biggest high lites of my climbing life.
|By scott morrison|
From: colorado springs
Dec 17, 2008
how many days does this take most people. I can preaty much do a 5.10 blind-folded.
Dec 8, 2009
Planning to do this route this year in August. I have a couple of questions, if anyone has any beta on this:
1. Do you need a portaledge?
2. We were planning to rappel the route the day before and stash water, food, etc. at our preplanned bivys. I know the whole route is set of to rappel, does anyone know if the rappel route meets up with the main bivy spots (Camp VI, El Cap Spire, etc)? Thanks for the help!
Jan 16, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
I do not think that taking all your stuff up to the top via the East Ledges is a very good idea. Better go a little lighter and quicker...
especially in the August heat going up there + rappelling seems like a waste of energy. And I think its wayyyyyy cooler to do start at the bottom not really knowing whats ahead of you...
but if you do the rappels, you get to Camp 4,5,6 and to Dolt. Not to sickle and not to El Cap tower, at least thats not the way its set up
We did it in August too. 1 gallon per person per day is MINIMUM! Bring more! I was 103 or so in Valley when we did it, and we had a little more as it turned out we were going faster than anticipated. Still super thirsty the whole way.
Fix to sickle, bivy on Dolt the first day. If you do the jardine traverse you can go to camp five. But I would bring enough water so I could also bivy on C4 and then C6 in case I do not get to C5...
From camp 5 to the top are the best pitches. If you are lucky you find water on C6...
have fun, its the best climb in the world.
|By Jacek Czyz|
From: Denver, Chicago, Poland
Feb 11, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
I know something about aiding since I did some of the hardest on the wall. Still I think The Nose have A2 at least in three section: below SickleL, Glowering Spot and Changing Corners. Because of complexity it is not easy route. Must be take seriously especially as a first big wall. I see even mountain guides retreat because of slow progress.
It is GREAT ROUTE. Thanks Warren.
Nov 22, 2010
Yosemite National Park is internationally known for beautiful waterfalls, clear streams, biological diversity, marvellous granite cliffs, the huge sequio groves. This park has a number of plants like chaparral/oak woodland, lower montane, upper montane, subalpine and alpine and animals such as Bighorn sheep, bobcat, gray fox, mountain beaver, mountain lion, black bear and bat.
Jun 15, 2011
I am dumb. My partner and I fixed lines to sickle a few days ago and dropped the extra rope after ascending them the next day. After climbing and in our hurry to get back home, we forgot to pick it up. If anyone wants to clean our litter feel free to keep the rope. Its a pink 70 meter and should be at the base of the sickle ledge rap route. Hopefully it doesn't sit there looking ugly for too long...
Jan 21, 2012
FA: Warren Harding, Wayne Merry, George Whitmore, 1958
FCA: Bruce Carson, Yvon Chouinard, 9/1973
FFA: Lynn Hill, 1993
From: Scottsdale, az
Apr 19, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
We were the last party that climbed the nose using warrens old original bolts. As we were climbing it, a party was behind us changing all the bolts ( metolius donated bolts to replace)...
Great climb. We fixed up to sickle ledge on Sunday. Jumared up on Monday morning, and topped on wednesday by noon. I have the slide, and will put them on FB. One of the best climbing experiences... Specially the stove leg cracks, the Texas chimney, the king pendulum, the big roof.... Fun,...
|By Tito Krull|
Nov 19, 2012
so this might be a stupid question but i was wondering why the nose is only rated a 5.9 on here i always thought climbs are rating but the hardest moves in them which would make the nose's great roof and changing corners at least .13 and up...?? and why is it only a C2...??
From: Arvada, CO
Nov 20, 2012
Hey Tito, not a stupid question if you don't know :). In theory the 5.9 refers to the highest level of mandatory free climbing (that which is not aidable). You could certainly climb it at 5.10 C2 or 5.12 C2 or just free at 13+/14- too. This is how aid ratings work, same is said for the C2 part, it's the hardest aid on the route. Only C2 because the gear is pretty straight forward, just awkward/not quite perfect at a couple points. That and you can do it with clean gear alone (hence the "C").
|By Tito Krull|
Nov 29, 2012
Thanks steveZ i was thinkin about that way the other day but this really cleared things up for me, hopefully gonna be there within the next year to do my first trad free climbing, but in addition to the climbing does anyone know the situation on the garbage in the rock? I heard it is a big problem, disrespect to our big walls, i plan on saving money and going there to clean on my own time and was just curious if its still a problem?
|By Tito Krull|
Nov 30, 2012
oh and another thing well i'm thinkin i just recently began buying trad gear i really like the idea of tricams so i got a set of 6, just curious what a good overall rack should consist of, i realize each situation may require different peices but i was just looking to start a good rack...??
Mar 18, 2013
Rack. Set of nuts. Set of Metolious offset cams, Double set of cams from blue metolious to #4BD Camalot (be ready to walk the 4 for a long time too). Triples in .75/1/.5 are awesome to have. No hooks/camhooks were used..
|By Sendasaurus Rex|
Jul 23, 2013
Great route. Few people know that the name comes from the Gogol short story. A man loses his nose, only to find out it had been baked into a loaf bread and subsequently masquerading around town as a local official.
|By Nate Flynn|
From: United States
Aug 8, 2013
To add to Rex's comment, Ron Kauk said that el cap's legend in the Indian locals was of two bear cubs that climbed up to escape a winter storm.
|By Nate Flynn|
From: United States
Aug 8, 2013
I climbed around the base of pine line below the nose and found many parties roping up. I would love to climb the nose but it's hard to beat crowds, any idea on when's the best time to do it?
|By Robbie Brown|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 16, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b
I just lead and hauled every pitch without offset nuts or cams. It was nice having a 00c3 but nothing smaller than that. This is truly the best rock climb in the world! I only place about 3 nuts on the whole climb also... Go light, get it right!