Spearfish Canyon is a gorgeous canyon, lined with steep slopes capped by bands of limestone. The amount of rock in the canyon is staggering.
Unfortunately, the majority of the roadside through the canyon is private property, and there really aren't parking areas to allow exploring.
There is one established area just south from the town of Spearfish.
Ice Climbing
Spearfish Canyon in the northern Black Hills is an excellent place to learn to climb ice. The ice is very reliable, not very crowded, and is usually accessed by short approaches. All routes are in the WI2 - WI4 range, and there is potential to add some very difficult mixed routes in the Terminator Pillar amphitheatre.
This is one of those routes that had my number. I knew how hard it was, I knew how to do it, I knew I could do it, and yet I fell in the same place every stinking time. I gave up (in '96) and Scott from MN nabbed the FA (in '06, in the rain just to add insult to injury).Anyway, this route is incredible and incredibly powerful. Climb the slightly overhanging first 15 feet up to the bulge. The climbing through the bulge is some of the coolest I've ...[more]
For those of you who are interested a guidebook is in the proces of being written for Spearfish Canyon. It should be published and out by next spring (03). That is what the author as said that his plans are anyways. He has already done a lot of work on the book.
Kick ass! It's awesome to see a website devoted to climbing in the Black Hills. Hope to see more photo's of the cliff's and the routes. Have a great new year everyone!
Hey guys, Pete and Cindy here down in Mexico climbing in the sun, enjoying hanging out with little T (Bob and my little boys too). Just wanted to say Happy New Year and keep climbing.
Pete and Cindy and T it is great to hear from you. Hope all is going well in Mexico. Hope you are sending all the problems on the Tip and putting more in. Love to see you in SD this summer.
For some free advertising, you may want to add Spearfish Canyon to rockclimbing.com's database. Since rockandroad.com has disbanded, rc.com has taken over the helm of area and route databases, based upon individual states (even North Dakota and Nebraska!). There has been a fair amount of interest in Spearfish Canyon! I think you can even sell the guidebook on their site... Good luck and climb hard!
I am sorry but on 1-12-2003 I left a message for Pete and Cindy but for some reason Perry's name came up. But once again hope all is well Pete and Cindy. Hope you can come back this summer. If Nate Renner gets this message I will replace the bolts at the Wall Of Oz if you still want that done. Are the hangers for a 3/8 inch bolt or are they 1/2 inch hangers. If Greg Parker reads this. Would you mind if a person finished the route left of Hopefull Monsters on the black water streak. If it is OK let me know at mcronin@rapidnet.com
There is a thread over on rc.com about manufactured routes in the Spearfish area. According to the original post (since edited), there are a number of higher end routes in the Spearfish area with drilled monos. The post also states (stated) that the individuals doing the dirty deed admit their actions.
I am writing this in regards to the Denver Climber asking about the drilled pockets on the higher end Spearfish Canyon routes. It is correct that there are some drilled pockets in the canyon, but not to the extent that you have been told. I will start with the Glamrock Wall. This wall has a very steep roof at the begining with no holds at all then leads into a beautiful slightly overhung head wall that is covered with holds. At first we had aide starts for the routes. It really took away from the quality of the routes. I then decided to create holds at the bottom so the upper wall could be climbed. Now you can climb from the ground up and it looks much better. I debated this tactic for some time before I took action. Some may feel that this is a poor choice. If that is the case then don't climb the routes on that wall. Now to address the high end routes. As far as I know there are 5 routes in the canyon with drilled holds. This was only done when a totally blank section was found. The routes would not ever be possible without a hold of some kind. There are over 100 routes that go 5.12 or harder and only 5 have been drilled. I would say that is far short of the statement (All high end routes are drilled). We are now developing a new area that will have the hardest routes in the canyon. I have decided not to drill or chip any holds. I will let others decide if the routes is possible to send in its original state. There have been rumors that the canyon is covered with manufactued holds since its debut. Many of those have been made from people that have never develolped a limestone route. You should come see for yourseld if you have any doubts. Spearfish Canyon has some of the best limestone climbing you will find in the U.S. If you allow this to sway your decision on climbing here then you are missing out.
In response to Mike's comments, i would like to offer my $.02 on the subject... i am of the opinion that five routes with drilled holds in the Canyon is five too many. Ethical issues aside, the fact that there are more than 100 routes in the Canyon that go 5.12 or above is reason enough for routes with manufactured holds to not exist. If these five routes were not created, I doubt it would have downgraded the climbing quality of Spearfish Canyon as a whole. In fact, i think it would have quite the opposite effect and establish the Canyon as a place with an obscene amount of quality, climbable limestone. Also, no one would be posting comments on this site putting out fires from rumors of "all hard routes in the Canyon have chipped/manufactured holds"... Word-of-mouth can have some pretty damaging effects, and "five routes with manufactured holds" can easily turn into "some routes" and go to "many routes" then "most routes" and eventually snowball into "all routes in the Canyon have manufactured holds"... sounds crazy, but it happens... my main fear is that this snowball effect of misinformation will tarnish the Canyon's budding reputation as a premier climbing area in the Black Hills...
This is only one man's opinion, and please note that these comments are not in malice nor are they meant to be an attack on the efforts of those developing the Canyon into a world-class sport climbing area. I think it is well on its way to becoming just that. What's done is done, and I applaud your decision not to chip or drill any holds in your current development. Route establishment is an expensive, time-consuming and thankless task, and I speak for myself as well as others when i express my gratitude for Mike's and other's countless hours of effort...
Just to clarify, my words were ...'a number of higher end routes'... - not 'All high end routes are drilled' - a big difference. Also not sure where the ...'not to the extent you have been told'... comment comes from.
Can you provide the names of the 5 routes with drilled holds?
I've seen the canyon, I've climbed the canyon. I love the canyon. Thanks for the route development and I commend your new position of drilling for bolt holes only.
I was considering visiting Spearfish Labor Day weekend. However my climbing partner is a beginner, and can only climb about 5.9 or so. Would Spearfish be a good choice or not? Also how is the bolting? I've heard some stories about runouts in the black hills area, and wondered if that ethic applies to Spearfish as well. Any other general info would be great. I'm going to try to find the guide book, but I'm not sure I'll have much luck with so little time.
You should be able to find a guidebook at one of the stores in the area (e.g., Granite Sports in Hill CIty and Adventure Sport in Rapid City). I believe they are running around $16.
The climbing in the canyon isn't usually suited for beginners; however, there are some routes here and there in some areas that are at that level. This should not deter you, though. Your best bet for finding an area with a mixture of beginning and intermediate climbing is at Skeletal Remains not far from the entrance to Spearfish Canyon from the city of Spearfish side, and you can make a decent day as a beginner in this area. This is where I would suggest you go, but the qualiy of the rock in this area, in my opinion, is the worst in the canyon. That doesn't mean it's bad, though. I'm just saying there's world-class quality limestone in other areas of Spearfish Canyon.
As far as the bolting goes, the routes are really safe and you will never find a route with more than ten feet between a bolt usually. You will need roughly twelve draws (in most cases), and a 50m rope gets you around just fine.
This is for the guy who is thinking of coming on Labor Day weekend. Sunshine Wall would be your best bet for easy routes in the Canyon. I would hate to see a visiting climber go to Skeletal. Sunshine has many moderate routes, great stone, short approach, great weather. You can get the guide books at the stores Dan said. Hope you have a good time.
The line to the left was put in by Pete deLannoy and climbed by me a long time ago. It was called Swamp Thing, 12c. I don't think it needs any more bolts, unless it's something specific for you crazy mixed-climbers.
Check out the latest issue of South Dakota Magazine. Front cover is of Adam Pequette and Matt Johnson on ice. Nice story inside. You can find it at Border's in RC.
There is a new route at Sunshine Wall. It is one route right of Cougars Pupil. 8 bolts unknow grade. I am guessing solid 5.10. The name is Eye Of The Tiger. It is an open route. I have not climbed it so the rating is in question. If anyone climbs it please post the grade you feel it is. Also if anybody finds suspect bolts or anchors in Spearfish Canyon please let me know. I received some free bolts and anchors from Climbing Magazine for replacement. I need to get them used up so we can get more. EnjoyMike
Is there a particuilarly useful guidebook for this area? I noticed that Sharp End is selling a book called, "Spearfish Canyon Limestone Rock Climbing Guide" by Bruce Junek, but the description says, 'grades from 5.8s to 5.12s', which seems a bit odd, since there are numerous 5.13s. Is this the nest guide available, or is there something better out there?
Hey Monomaniac. Bruce's guide is the only guide out there for Spearfish Canyon and it does a pretty good job of describing the area. It does include descriptions of about 16 5.13's, despite what Sharp End says. However, it does not include the newer areas, The Shadowlands and the Dark Side, which combined house probably 50(?) routes including a few 5.13s. You could probably find out about those routes through word of mouth though (or by the route names and grades painted on small rocks at the base of most of the routes).
Monomaniac There are actually closer to 100 new routes at the Shadowlands and Dark Side. About 30 new routes at Sunshine, about 10 at Mohican. Lots of 5.13 and 5.12. There are also some open projects that could go much harder. You should come and check it out.
Hey Mike. How many new 5.13s are there? I'm just curious. I can think of 6-7; The Trickle 13a, Tough Love 13a, Wop-gnar 13a, Witness protection 13c, that thing by Hopeful (Shoot the Moon 12d/13a?), the Armageddon extension 13a, Lt. Dangles (is that 13a?). What am I missing?
Greg I think you have named the ones that are done. There are others that were given enough burns without success, Battle of the Bulge, Blakes ext. on Lips Like Sugar, Lee's new ones at the Mohawk, Jamies at Sunshine and Blakes left of Under the Gun, all 4 on Hole in the Wall, Lee's link up at the Dark Side,a couple down at the Gold Mine, The Gavel, Faith, the link up from Whop Gnar to Gavel called Jugs Judy that eliminated the 6 mono crux. Hopefully some of these can get done this spring.
Hey Greg- Lt. Dangles is the vicinity of 5.12c/d. You stick-clip the first two bolts so you can climb through the initial V6 section without clipping. From there it's like 11a to the top. Such a good route. Props to Lee on getting the FA.
I wanted to ask the locals what they thought of the new article in Climbing, Land of the 5.12s? Personally I found it riddled with pictures and comments of individuals that have been to the canyon perhaps only once or twice. In my mind the article did not do too well of a job conveying the nature of Spearfish Canyon to the outside world. Spearfish is a local hub that is concerned with aesthetics and beautiful lines, not 5.13's and big names to promote how "cool" the area is...politics.
Regarding the Climbing magazine article... As they say "Any press, is good press" I'm stoked that Climbing did an editorial on Spearfish Canyon. Hopefully it will bring more climbers to the beautiful area, allow them to make there own opinion, and further solidify it as a world class destination. Peace
yeah, that is all we need. lots of people from other places coming here to crowd the area and take away the pleasant solitude. who cares if everyone else knows about the high quality of rock here and what grades we have. if people keep spouting off about how great it is or "world class" to use an all too familiar term, then soon you are going to be running into people on your favorite climbs, and mine too!!! this doesn't even touch the negative impact on the environment that more people in the area will have. I don't even understand why anyone would want MORE people to come here to climb?
i don't have any problems with people coming to the black hills to climb. but why the advertisement? i don't think of climbing as an ideal tourist attraction. by all means if someone comes to black hills to climb, please enjoy. but i just don't think it should be posted on a billboard and directed towards grade seekers. especially when 5.12 only comprises 5-10% of the routes at most. i am not from south dakota, i have been living here for 4 years because of the climbing. i didn't read about it in a pop magazine, i heard of it through other climbers and felt drawn to the area. i don't really see climbing as a large contribution to the tourist economy at all. to those who seek out the majestic beauty of this area on their own many spiritual, physical, and mental awards await. this is sacred land to many, it should be to ALL those who tread here, and i always hear people trying to sell it (everything, not just climbing). it's pretty sad to me that such a beautiful place is being sold for the dollar. how many dollars do you think these recreationists will contribute anyway? don't get me wrong, helping people i run across in the hills find routes or areas is something i love to do. i don't want to be confused for someone who dislikes the diversity you speak of. i have met people from all over the country and helped whenever possible, but i felt like they were here for the same reason as me, not for the 5.12..but for what this place truely is. but i do think the article should have at least mentioned wall drug.
Somebody post something new. I'm bored. Any more cool pics Christian? Any new double-digit sends Dreher? Any new best-5.12-in-the-world Cronin? Come on, entertain me.
By Swiss From: Loveland/Estes, Colorado May 4, 2008
Where is a guide book available besides the internet? I have plans to be there in a week.
Chris, I haven't been to Spearfish yet (am heading there in 3 weeks), but there are lots of Forest Service campgrounds close by. Check out this link for a map of the area with campgrounds and descriptions, fees, etc.
This question is for Mike Cronin, Mike did you extend the finish to Totally Flaked to make it a 10b? That was a route that beginners could get a good lead on and even for some to top rope. The Canyon just lost the best 5.9+ routes with moving the anchors 10 feet. Just a concerned climber looking out for the little people. Thanks for you time. Justin Gonzales Spearfish
This is a reply to Justin's comment. Yes I did extend the route, It was not to make the route harder. It needed new anchors and the route should have gone to the top from the beginning. The route was at the hard end of 5.9 so a little 5.10 added is not changing much. Just look at it as a good stepping stone or just lower at the last bolt where the old anchors were. Mike
Mike, I heard from a friend that the guidebook only has about 60% of the established routes in it. Is there a local notebook or something that has more up to date routes and crags?
Deaun The guide book has about 300+ routes in it. I think we have about 500+ now. If you have an area in mind, let me know and I can get you the route info. There is talk to make a new guide book in the next couple years. Mike
Thanks Mike! An area that I read about was called Shadowlands and was reported to have great rock and was shady. I am heading up to Spearfish tomorrow evening and the forecast looks, well...toasty.
Deaun The area that you are thinking about is called the Dark Side. Give me a call at 605-390-5187 and I can get you there. I will be up there on Fri also. Mike
I was in spearfish for the 1st time last weekend and had a great time. Climbed at Mohican, sunshine, thunderhead and i think the courthouse. I was curious what the steep route to the right of the gavel is. I really wanted to get on it but the killtaker took up more of my time and energy than I had hoped (not that it wasnt worth it) Also wondering why that area and all the others near it aren't on this site or anywhere else. Are there access issues? Just curious. I had very little trouble finding it even without directions and the name plates beneath most of the routes where very helpful. So maybe it doesn't really need anything published about it. Oh, also wondering what the route in the blue/gray streak to the left of the 12a at the courthouse is and if its been done. Looked like it had a pocket filled in and maybe 1 drilled 2 finger in that blank section. Otherwise the pockets/holds on that thing looked amazing. Thanks for any info you can give. Cant wait to come back this fall and check out some more great routes.
Dave Glad you had a good time in the canyon. The route right of the gavel is 13c and called Witness Protection. Matt Wendling from WY got the FA last year. The other route you talk about is called Faith. It was the first route put up at the Shadow Lands in about 95-96. Then when the main development started in winter 02-03 a once local that will remain unnamed thought he would re-establish the route his way by drilling one pocket and reaming out another. It pissed off many of the other locals so the drilled pocket got filled and there is nothing we can do about the reamed one, very tragic event to such a perfect line. Once local now SLC resident Greg Parker has tried the route with the most success. Maybe if he sees this he can comment on the possible grade. So to answer your question it is still an open project along with the Gavel. There are no access issues with the area. We are all just to lazy to post the topos. There are about 200 more routes that need to be put in a book. Maybe in a couple of years. If you are wanting more steep routes in the BH then get hold of one of me and I can give you more details. Mike
I wish I could remain silent and possibly for my own good, I should, but I just cannot... one can only be left out to dry so many times. I not quite sure why someone would continue to throw what was at one time a good friendship under the bus but sometimes that is just how it goes... I suppose. For any local out there we all know who the "unnamed local" is so why bother doing "him" any favors... lets just get it out there. It's me, Blake... I'm the one who scarred Faith forever... and I have to live with that. Was it a mistake? ...ABSOLUTELY, and I sincerely regret the fact that I did it. When I look back on it... I'm ashamed and embarrassed that I was not able to rise to the difficulty that the rock presented. Believe me, I think about it a lot. After reading this response, I get the feeling that this local's perspective is highly judgmental, and hypocritical. Shouldn't it be what's "good for the goose is good for the gander?" Apparently not in the Spearfish climbing crew? Are there drilled pockets, glued holds, and chipped holds on great routes that reside on perfect stone in Spearfish Canyon? ......You bet there is. But lets not name anyone... whether they are long gone used-to-be locals or still residents and prime developers of the growing area. Nobody seems to be willing to discuss their faults and the routes that they have scarred... nameless or not. It's ironic to me that the manufacturing that when on with Faith... "pissed off many of the other locals", doesn't seem to resonate with the same effect with many other great routes that get climbed all the time and remain canyon classics. I've got the feeling that some people must think that they are not subject to the same level of judgment as they judge others. The article on Spearfish Canyon was one thing and this certainly capitalizes on that. Your integrity is poor and your consideration for others is even poorer. What took place on Faith is indeed tragic and I apologize... how many apologies will ever be enough? What has taken place within the last year and with a few people who I would have called good and close friends at one time is even more tragic. The public humility is one of the major reasons I quit climbing in the canyon. It sure isn't much fun when your friends make you feel like an outcast. I have lost a many blood, sweat, and tears in that canyon, made many positive contributions and it will always be a special part of my life, but due to recent events I have no interest in climbing in that canyon ever again. You are the judge, the jury, and the executioner Mike... you always were and you always will be.
Blake I see you still look at this site. I was not trying to throw you under the bus, that is why I did not mention your name. Dave asked a question about Faith and I answered honestly. If he had asked about another route I would have answered that honesty also. I have openly admitted my faults when asked and vowed to never make those mistakes again. Blake there is not question that you put in some great routes and contributed greatly to the vast amount of routes we have in the canyon. I am sorry that you feel the way you do but that is your deal. Maybe some time away will help with your feelings. All new routes that are getting put in are on the rocks terms not ours (developers). There are too many strong climbers out there that can make moves that we never thought possible. We were young and stupid. Like you said we have all learned from out mistakes and hopefully continue to. And with you calling me the judge, jury and executioner you are mistaken. I will quote Dan Dewell "I am the custodian" and proud of it. Mike
Hi folks, I am going to be heading out to Spearfish in a few weeks and I was just wondering what the camping situation is like- especially dispersed camping/free camping. Any info/help is greatly appreciated. That said, I am totally psyched to come out- it seems like a wonderful area with a great community.
I'd like to make a comment about a comment made by someone that will remain nameless. I don't believe it was necessary to call out specific details about a route pointing fingers, namelessly, at a local and old friend (apparently) when it was a fellow climber in the community that has put a lot of work into many areas in the Black Hills, specifically Spearfish Canyon. It sounds like you're trying to defend your precious climbing area and its locals to new folk by calling out one individual and basically saying that you and your possie have nothing to do with this person, do not defend their actions, and in fact have driven this person away. Jerk move, especially coming from someone that has done no less evil. He who is without sin may cast the first stone and that's not you nameless commenter. I think the local climbers of the Black Hills need to reevaluate their reasons for climbing and think about whether a comment is worth losing a friendship. Stupid!!!
Hey all, I have been to Spearfish Canyon twice in the last couple years, obviously I'm a non-local. The routes are stellar, the rock impeccable, and the setting amazing. Thanks to all of the route developers, truly the place is awesome and we appreciate all the hard work. Most recently a group of us spent a day in the Big Picture Gulley guided by a local-- a lot of work had been recently done on the trail. Thanks and keep up the good work.
Climbed in Spearfish Canyon over the 4th of July weekend. I wanted to says thanks to Mike Cronin for his generous beta on where to climb and for offering to show us all of the new areas that have opened up. Also thanks to all of the Spearfish new routers and trail builders. You have a great area with beautiful limestone and awesome routes. Everyone we met was super friendly and helpful. Thanks again!
I hope everyone is doing well and loving the summer! I sure miss the Black Hills: its people and the climbing are second to none.
I especially love that FA I did at the Rock Maze so many years ago -- "Little Monster" (http://www.mountainproject.com/v/south_dakota/rock_maze/sout>>>>>. That thing is still harder than anything in the Canyon and at Baldy, despite what the 2nd ascent says (liar!!!!!). I'd say 99 percent of you have no business touching the holds, if they do indeed exist at all. :)
Let's not let the bad times overshadow the good times, boys. We're all friends here...
I recently heard J.D. sent "Little Monster" first try. The rumor is he hired a couple of drunks from day labor to enhance (chip) all of the holds, added five bolts and the route now goes at a stout V0-... What a tragedy! Not much different than his piping in on this thread and bringing it down to his level. The real question is who should really do some serious soul searching about their climbing motives?
Byron- You heard incorrectly. The "two drunks" I hired were actually steamy hot dudes with raging 12 packs glistening in the sun! I didn't hire them to "enhance (chip) all of the holds" as much as I hired them to keep me warm at the base of Little Monster where I lived projecting it for 6 months until a near success (I call it good). I did however bolt Little Monster because safety is always first.
Hey guys. I'm living in Lead for the summer and am looking for someone to climb with on a regular basis in the canyon. Weeknights, weekends, whatever... Anyone interested please let me know! Thanks!
hey everyone Ill be relocating to CO in August, but will be making a much needed pit stop in Spearfish for a few days. Anyone care to spray some beta as to the best walls that time of year (aug 18-22 roughly)? We are looking to do get in mileage rather than projecting.. any uber classic 10s, 11s, low 12's recommended?
Also, there's a few shots of what looks to be gorgeous swimming holes.. anyone care to elaborate on where to find them?
feel free to pm, email or just reply here thanks! can't wait to experience the canyon :D
Spearfish Canyon
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