Type: Sport, 69 ft (21 m)
FA: Blake Workman
Page Views: 2,645 total · 19/month
Shared By: Orphaned User on Nov 5, 2010
Admins: Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description

Some of us have a great respect and affinity for this route because it was our first send at the 5.11 grade, and like any good sergeant, it made us work for it. Some climbers might wish to avoid this route due to what might be called an error in judgement that I won't comment on or judge anyone for. Say what you will, I love this route and make a point to get on it whenever I can. It climbs like a thuggy, overhung pegboard with magical two finger pockets that get you pumped into a state of euphoria right up until a huge bird's nest pocket that becomes your salvation, from the relentless assault, by this prosecuting climb, that makes you drop and give it twenty. The court isn't adjourned until the very top where some huge, slopper holds make you wonder if your guilty of not wanting that send enough.

Location

It might be the first (or last) climb on The Courthouse Wall. If you can locate Doorf, just take a short hike down the hill. Set up your belayer on the big boulder with the rail road tie next to it and get to work.

Protection

About ten quickdraws will do the trick. This route has chain anchors. From these anchors you can position your rope into the open-shunt anchors for the route to the left and create a great top rope situation for both routes to get twice the burn.

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