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Routes in The Court House Wall

Absence of Faith. S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Badgering the Witness a.k.a. "The Drilled Sergeant" S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bailiff, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Court Chester S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Electric Chair S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Executioner S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Faith S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Gavel, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Hard Time S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jugs Judy S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Jury Tampering aka "The Jury Box" S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Justice Served S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Juvenile , The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Legal Eagle S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stiff Sentence S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Temporary Insanity S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Whopgnar S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Witness Protection S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Type: Sport, 69 ft
FA: Blake Workman
Page Views: 1,528 total · 17/month
Shared By: BBQ on Nov 5, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

Some of us have a great respect and affinity for this route because it was our first send at the 5.11 grade, and like any good sergeant, it made us work for it. Some climbers might wish to avoid this route due to what might be called an error in judgement that I won't comment on or judge anyone for. Say what you will, I love this route and make a point to get on it whenever I can. It climbs like a thuggy, overhung pegboard with magical two finger pockets that get you pumped into a state of euphoria right up until a huge bird's nest pocket that becomes your salvation, from the relentless assault, by this prosecuting climb, that makes you drop and give it twenty. The court isn't adjourned until the very top where some huge, slopper holds make you wonder if your guilty of not wanting that send enough.

Location

It might be the first (or last) climb on The Courthouse Wall. If you can locate Doorf, just take a short hike down the hill. Set up your belayer on the big boulder with the rail road tie next to it and get to work.

Protection

About ten quickdraws will do the trick. This route has chain anchors. From these anchors you can position your rope into the open-shunt anchors for the route to the left and create a great top rope situation for both routes to get twice the burn.

Photos

BBQ
 
BBQ  
 
Oh my God, Michalm! This "Drilled Pockets" on the "Drilled Sergeant" controversy again. So boring...

Going to sleep now. Jul 5, 2016
michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.11a
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Fun route on very good quality rock. I take it the crux holds are drilled, then? Is there not enough limestone in Spearfish to climb without manufacturing holds? Regardless, this could be the best route of the grade in the area. Jul 5, 2016
skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Brent, I very much enjoyed the wording of this route description. Jun 21, 2013
David Stephens
Superior AZ
 
David Stephens   Superior AZ
 
My fat fingers don't fit in the holes...the crux is the holes. They should have been drilled bigger!!! Very good route***** Sep 19, 2011
Sam Daley
Minneapolis, Minnesota
  5.11a
Sam Daley   Minneapolis, Minnesota
  5.11a
This is by far the best 11a that I have ever climbed. Jul 29, 2011