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Slice and Dice 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Steve Petro and Gordon Douglass
Season: Spring and fall
Page Views: 13,647
Submitted By: Dpurf on Apr 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (59)
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slice and dice

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

As the guide says; Very Steep and sustained figer stacks through a small roof. Featured on the of Climbing #128. The stacks on this climb are amazing/good. But to prepare for this climb I will suggest placing your thumb in a vice for a few hours. Do that every day for 2 weeks and you are ready. You get a lot on this climb for 60 feet. Oh and there is one hand jam on it, but it not that great. But hafter 45 feet of stacks, it most welcome. If you have nice small and thin hands you can hand jam.

Location 

From the base of the buttress head to the left and around. It is the climb before Layaway Plan. You can't miss it, because when you walk by you say to your self 'Oh My God, I got to get on that'

Protection 

For the BD crew: 8 to 10 green camalots and 2 or 3 one camalots.
For the WC crew 8 to 10 1.5 friends and 2 to 3 2.0 friends.


Photos of Slice and Dice Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Slice and Dice at sunset
Slice and Dice at sunset
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom on Slice and Dice
Tom on Slice and Dice
Rock Climbing Photo: Slice and dice
Slice and dice
Rock Climbing Photo: Will "The Naz" Nazerian, taking a Zen-li...
Will "The Naz" Nazerian, taking a Zen-li...
Rock Climbing Photo: Slice and Dice, Layaway Plan is the left corner th...
Slice and Dice, Layaway Plan is the left corner th...
Rock Climbing Photo: slice and dice
slice and dice
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the nice resting pod in the middle of the ...
Nearing the nice resting pod in the middle of the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Turning the roof, this is surprisingly easy compar...
Turning the roof, this is surprisingly easy compar...
Rock Climbing Photo: Moving into the upper flare.
Moving into the upper flare.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sam on Slice and Dice
Sam on Slice and Dice
Rock Climbing Photo: DK on Slice and Dice
DK on Slice and Dice
Rock Climbing Photo: one more move er two
one more move er two
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo by Austin Siadak
Photo by Austin Siadak
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up the lower bit where the feet fade away
Starting up the lower bit where the feet fade away
Rock Climbing Photo: kevin on-sighting s&d
kevin on-sighting s&d

Comments on Slice and Dice Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tortilla
From: Fakeville, USA
Aug 23, 2006

You get 2 really good hand jams, one below the roof and one past it in the pod. Also, don't bring that much gear. Remember an orange tcu size for after the pod and the rest is .75s(9 max). If you don't have that many then you can definitely fit 1, maybe 2 #2 friends, but no #1 camalots.
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Aug 18, 2008
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

8-#.75 camalots, 1-#2 friend (below the roof in a pod) and a yellow alien when the crack thins at the top.
By Brad G
From: Yosemite and elsewhere
Dec 1, 2008

I thought the crux was placing gear on the first half of the route. Having to place thoughs cams with almost all my wait on one stack was some what unplesent
By slim
Administrator
May 18, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

it is easy to look up at the roof and totally overlook the start, which is tougher than it looks. i thought the crux was getting to the first hand jam. placing gear off of a big 3 fingered thumb stack, or in some cases a very tight hand jam with slippery feet was kind of intense. a very do-able route thought, as you can break it down into realistic sections.
By snowhazed
From: Oakland, Ca
Oct 12, 2010

I felt the crux was down low where the feet blank out- the roof is hard but has good feet.
By Scott Bennett
Oct 28, 2010
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Agree that this route is not as hard as it looks. There end up being quite a few good rests, including a no-hands if you step right about 20' up. Still a great route!
By acouncell
From: Estes Park, CO
Oct 30, 2010

The anchors should be replaced soon. The hanger on the left bolt spins but may only need tightening. The right bolt, however, wiggles easily if you test it with your fingers. Until these bolts are replaced or beefed up, if you want an added measure of safety, just take along an extra .75 camalot or equivalent to back up the anchor. Just a heads up, have fun!
By slim
Administrator
Nov 2, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

couple notes from doing this route again recently. you can pretty much place .75 camalots anywhere on the route. if you don't have a pile of these, then there are some other options. i used only #2 friends to get up to the first pod, and then .75 camalots above. you can also use anwhere between a .3 camalot and .5 camalot above the 2nd pod. this will help save those .75's, which will be trying to fly off of your rack and into the crack.

this would be a great first IC 12, or a good one if you are a strong sport climber who hasn't done a lot of crack climbing. you can easily break it down into several sections with great rests. also it is short and has good stances for placing gear and then shooting for the next stance.

normally i'm not really into repeating routes, but this one is a lot of fun and i would do it again.
By Watch Me Dude
Apr 17, 2016
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

This bueaty kicked my ass! A little finger wiggling and the stacks feel pretty solid. After whipping about 4 times on my onsight attempt I finally reached the anchor. While attempting to heal my damaged ego at the bottom another guy gave it a pull I and watched in envy and disbelief as he shoved half his hand in the crack the whole way up. If you have somewhat big hands you wont be able to find anything but finger stacking aside from a couple jams it reluctantly offers. Felt like a solid .12 to me!

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