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Astro Monkey 
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Monkey Off My Back 
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West Face (Aid) 
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West Face (Aid) 

Easy 5th C1

   
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Type: Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II
Consensus: Easy 5th A1 [details]
FA: Dean Caldwell, Byron Babcock & Bill Lentsch - 1962
Submitted By: corvegas on May 15, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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looking up the bolt ladder on P2

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Description 

This climb also goes free at 5.12a A1.

P1 - C1+ or 12a A0- Start on the western point of the monkey at a 5 bolt bolt ladder. Then aid the crack at C1, cam hooks and offset nuts are usefull here, clip a few more bolts, then mantel onto ledge. 3 bolt Anchor at small ledge.

P2 - A1 - Aid the bolts to sling belay.

P3 - easy 5th C1 or 5.12a - Aid more bolts to a scramble into the big west face cave.

P4 - 5.4 C1 or 5.11B - Aid out of the cave on bolts to some free to the summit.

Descent: Rap down to the nose boulder then one double rope to ground.

Note: Pitches 2 & 3 can be linked with 60M ropes. This climb also goes free at 5.12a, except for P2.


Protection 

Small clean aid rack to 2" include cam hooks and offset nuts. Mabey a Talon or a cheat stick. Quickdraws.



Photos of West Face (Aid) Slideshow Add Photo
a hiker took this shot of me on P1

a hiker took this shot of me on P1

JohnK leading the third pitch of West Face.

JohnK leading the third pitch of West Face.

On first pitch, west face crack, 512a.

On first pitch, west face crack, 512a.


Comments on West Face (Aid) Add Comment
Show which comments
By rpc
Mar 26, 2008

Done it twice incl. once with a 160 lb pig "for practice". Great place to learn aid on very exposed but very safe terrain (IMHO). Yes, lots of bolt ladders but position is spectacular!

By Shapp
Oct 28, 2009

Big props to the late Chris Pernel (spelling?)for replacing the ancient belay bolts back in the early 1990s, which made all future ascents possible. P.s. if you lost a Petzel zoom in the back notch cave in the early 1990s, send me an email and I can get it back to you. No longer need it now that there are nicer smaller ones available.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 27, 2010

Climbed this as an aid route for a fun diversion, and here are the details:

P1 (130') C1 - Fun and engaging. I needed a hook to reach the first bolt, but I probably could have tried harder and made one free move to reach it. Offset nuts from small (#3/4 HBs) to the big aluminum ones are key. 2-3 sets recommended along with one or two sets of small cams to #0.5 camalot. I used a green and red camalot too.

P2 (80') C0 - STEEP bolt ladder, 23 bolts. Easy to back clean every other one.

P3 (100') C0 - STEEP bolt ladder, 19 bolts - but you might not want to back clean too many as they are pretty reachy. Skip the intermediate belay. You'll either need to free climb or hook for a move or two to reach the bolt off the intermediate belay ledge. The dismount into the West Face cave was made easy with a #1 camalot. The west face cave is littered with loose rock and the edges are sharp. BRING DUCT TAPE TO PAD THE EDGES (there are two)!!

P4 (60') C0/5easy - Thrash and dangle out the left bolt line to a ledge and then scramble to the top!

The rap down was super cool!

Gear: 2-3 sets of offset nuts from small to large. 2 sets of small cams to #0.5 camalot. One green and one red camalot. A medium hook can't hurt. There are ledges are each belay, so no belay seat needed.

By Calvin Landrus
From: Bend, OR
Apr 27, 2010

I'm trying to free the first pitch. Has anyone ever tried to avoid the bolt ladder that free from the ground-up coming in from the left using bolts from other routes? Doing as a aid pitch is super good too. Its an amazing crack.

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Apr 27, 2010

The standard method for freeing the first pitch is to start up Sheer Trickery, then head right after the third bolt to join the West Face crack. I don't know if the "direct" bolt ladder has ever been freed.