West Face (Aid) Easy 5th C1
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | Easy 5th A1 [details] |
| FA: | Dean Caldwell, Byron Babcock & Bill Lentsch - 1962 |
| Submitted By: | corvegas on May 15, 2006 |
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looking up the bolt ladder on P2
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Description This climb also goes free at 5.12a A1.
P1 - C1+ or 12a A0- Start on the western point of the monkey at a 5 bolt bolt ladder. Then aid the crack at C1, cam hooks and offset nuts are usefull here, clip a few more bolts, then mantel onto ledge. 3 bolt Anchor at small ledge.
P2 - A1 - Aid the bolts to sling belay.
P3 - easy 5th C1 or 5.12a - Aid more bolts to a scramble into the big west face cave.
P4 - 5.4 C1 or 5.11B - Aid out of the cave on bolts to some free to the summit.
Descent: Rap down to the nose boulder then one double rope to ground.
Note: Pitches 2 & 3 can be linked with 60M ropes. This climb also goes free at 5.12a, except for P2.
Protection Small clean aid rack to 2" include cam hooks and offset nuts. Mabey a Talon or a cheat stick. Quickdraws.
a hiker took this shot of me on P1
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JohnK leading the third pitch of West Face.
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On first pitch, west face crack, 512a.
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| Comments on West Face (Aid) |
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By rpc
Mar 26, 2008
| Done it twice incl. once with a 160 lb pig "for practice". Great place to learn aid on very exposed but very safe terrain (IMHO). Yes, lots of bolt ladders but position is spectacular! |
By Shapp
Oct 28, 2009
| Big props to the late Chris Pernel (spelling?)for replacing the ancient belay bolts back in the early 1990s, which made all future ascents possible. P.s. if you lost a Petzel zoom in the back notch cave in the early 1990s, send me an email and I can get it back to you. No longer need it now that there are nicer smaller ones available. |
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 27, 2010
| Climbed this as an aid route for a fun diversion, and here are the details:
P1 (130') C1 - Fun and engaging. I needed a hook to reach the first bolt, but I probably could have tried harder and made one free move to reach it. Offset nuts from small (#3/4 HBs) to the big aluminum ones are key. 2-3 sets recommended along with one or two sets of small cams to #0.5 camalot. I used a green and red camalot too.
P2 (80') C0 - STEEP bolt ladder, 23 bolts. Easy to back clean every other one.
P3 (100') C0 - STEEP bolt ladder, 19 bolts - but you might not want to back clean too many as they are pretty reachy. Skip the intermediate belay. You'll either need to free climb or hook for a move or two to reach the bolt off the intermediate belay ledge. The dismount into the West Face cave was made easy with a #1 camalot. The west face cave is littered with loose rock and the edges are sharp. BRING DUCT TAPE TO PAD THE EDGES (there are two)!!
P4 (60') C0/5easy - Thrash and dangle out the left bolt line to a ledge and then scramble to the top!
The rap down was super cool!
Gear: 2-3 sets of offset nuts from small to large. 2 sets of small cams to #0.5 camalot. One green and one red camalot. A medium hook can't hurt. There are ledges are each belay, so no belay seat needed. |
By Calvin Landrus
From: Bend, OR
Apr 27, 2010
| I'm trying to free the first pitch. Has anyone ever tried to avoid the bolt ladder that free from the ground-up coming in from the left using bolts from other routes? Doing as a aid pitch is super good too. Its an amazing crack. |
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Apr 27, 2010
| The standard method for freeing the first pitch is to start up Sheer Trickery, then head right after the third bolt to join the West Face crack. I don't know if the "direct" bolt ladder has ever been freed. |
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