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Monkey Face
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West Face (Aid) 

Easy 5th C1

   

FA: Dean Caldwell, Byron Babcock & Bill Lentsch - 1962
Type: Trad, Aid
Consensus: Easy 5th C1 [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II
Views: 462 page views

Submitted By: corvegas on May 15, 2006


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looking up the bolt ladder on P2


Description 

This climb also goes free at 5.12a A1.

P1 - C1+ or 12a A0- Start on the western point of the monkey at a 5 bolt bolt ladder. Then aid the crack at C1, cam hooks and offset nuts are usefull here, clip a few more bolts, then mantel onto ledge. 3 bolt Anchor at small ledge.

P2 - A1 - Aid the bolts to sling belay.

P3 - easy 5th C1 or 5.12a - Aid more bolts to a scramble into the big west face cave.

P4 - 5.4 C1 or 5.11B - Aid out of the cave on bolts to some free to the summit.

Descent: Rap down to the nose boulder then one double rope to ground.

Note: Pitches 2 & 3 can be linked with 60M ropes. This climb also goes free at 5.12a, except for P2.


Protection 

Small clean aid rack to 2" include cam hooks and offset nuts. Mabey a Talon or a cheat stick. Quickdraws.



Add Photo Photos of West Face (Aid)
a hiker took this shot of me on P1

a hiker took this shot of me on P1

JohnK leading the third pitch of West Face.

JohnK leading the third pitch of West Face.


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By rpc
Mar 26, 2008

Done it twice incl. once with a 160 lb pig "for practice". Great place to learn aid on very exposed but very safe terrain (IMHO). Yes, lots of bolt ladders but position is spectacular!