Seasonal raptor closure at Monument Area MORE INFO >>>
Rock climbing is not allowed 1/4 mile either side of the Monument due to a nesting pair of Golden Eagles. The birds are using Staender Ridge as a perch therefore it is also within the closure area. The trail which is on the backside of the Monument is open to through traffic, but hiking is not allowed around the cliff faces.
My brother and I on the summit. Photo taken from ...
Description
This prominent tower is one the best known features at Smith rock. It's asthetic beauty is enhanced by the historical ascents and world famous routes on its clean faces. Monkey face still holds some of the hardest climbs in the world as well as a plethora of classic trad and sport lines. It's most famous route, Just Do It 5.14c is still a testpiece route for aspiring hardmen/women.
Other popular pastimes include making the tyrolean traverse from the main buttress to the monkey's mouth. This airy span is also often used for a spectacular high line walk.
Getting There
To approach you can take the hiking trail in either direction once you cross the bridge. Heading north provides a steeper but shorter approach. The seldom taken southward, scenic approach is much further but has less elevation gain and takes you all the way around the formation. Many approach by hiking past the main dihedrals, doing the scramble over asterik pass, and continuing on climbing trails heading north.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Monkey Face:
This historic route was the first line up Monkey Face. It begins on the southeast side of the tower. Pitch 1: 5.6 Scramble up a series of ledges to a ramp up and right to a vertical crack that takes you to the notch formed between the main buttress and Monkey face. Once at the notch turn the corner and climb up the face using traditional pro, bolts, and fixed pins. Belay at the left of two anchors on a long ledge. Pitch 2: C0 Move up an ov...[more]Browse More Classics in OR
Tallest aspect is the west face (river face) of the formation. I'd estimate that side to be in the low end of 300 foot range.
By Monomaniac Administrator From: Morrison, CO May 22, 2007
The picnic lunch wall is much taller, but i don't know if its steep enough. Morning glory is a good 400 feet, plus prbably another 200 to the river? MG would definately be steep enough.
I bet the w face of the monkey is more like 400'. The north face route, which starts a full pitch above the ground, is a rope stretching 60m just to the west face cave. probably another 50 feet or more to the summit from there?
Based on West Face aid line, P1 is probably about 120 feet. P2 all the way to the cave is less than 60 meters - say 190 feet. P3 to summit is (I would agree with you) probably no more than 50 feet. It seemed as though the floor of the west side cave protruded out a bit - I'd worry about clipping it on the way down. But then again, what do I know.
By corvegas From: the depths of oregon Aug 13, 2007
PLW not steep enough? ever been up bubbas in bondage?
By Peter Franzen Administrator From: Portland, OR May 6, 2009
For what it's worth:
The jumpers I that I was with said it was ~370ft from the exit to the ground. There's a great ledge on the west side of the summit to get a good running jump off of.
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