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New Brunswick

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Welsford 

New Brunswick 


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Administrators: Dom, Ian Lingley, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Jeff St. Pierre on Jun 14, 2010
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the parking spot at C-lane, with the cliffs in the...

Description 

New Brunswick is considered the drive-by province. Despite having been labelled that, it offers lots of opportunities for the visiting climber. All of the climbing areas are located in the South.

The Welsford area located in Southern NB has 5 crags and offers lots of opportunities (500 routes) wether you want to trad climb, sport climb, Toprope, Aid climb and even ice climb! The climbing in Welsford is situated on the southern tip of the Gagetown Military Base. As a result, climbers have an agreement with the military to be able to access the cliffs.


Aside from these crags in the Welsford Valley, New Brunswick offers a lot more climbing, mainly sport climbing.

Tired of climbing on granite?, Cedar Point in the City of Saint John consists of an old limestone quarry. Surprisingly, the rock is quality and the location is nice and quaint.

Saint Andrews in the southwest offers unique sport climbing on basalt with magnificent views of the St-Croix River. There are about 40 routes in the region.

Kingston Crag in the Kennebecasis valley is a nice small sport crag that contains a variety of grades on very special rock.

Utopia area has a huge granite overhang currently undevelopped that will probably boast NB's first 5.14's...

There is also really good Bouldering in Munson Lake near Lepreau. The huge granite blocks scattered through clearcuts are well featured and range frome V0 to V hard. The Granite is also very high quality.

This list is not complete and should give the reader an idea of the surprising amount of rock we have in Southern NB.


Getting There 

New Brunswick is South of Gaspésie (Qc), West of PEI and Nova Scotia and east of Maine.

All of the rock climbing in NB is located in the south of the province. On the other hand, the ice can be found everywhere in the province.


220 Total Routes


['4 Stars',28],['3 Stars',90],['2 Stars',58],['1 Star',40],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',16],['5.7',16],['5.8',16],['5.9',25],['5.10',34],['5.11',34],['5.12',17],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',24],['V2-3',32],['V4-5',3],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for New Brunswick:
The Hand crack   V1 5 PG13     Boulder, 20'   Evandale Quarry
Classic Corner    V2 5+     Boulder, 12'   Evandale Quarry
Sexual Education   V2 5+     Boulder, 12'   Evandale Quarry
the Birds and the Bees   V3 6A     Boulder, 12'   Evandale Quarry
Charlie and the Chalk-It Factory   V4-5 6B+     Boulder, 12'   Evandale Quarry
Chubby Girls Wearing Shower Curtains   5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c     Trad, 60'   Cedar point
Stairway to Heaven   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Sport, 90'   Sunnyside : Atomic Wall
Chica Bonita   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Sport, 80'   Cedar point
Pass the Moonshine   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Cochrane Lane Cliffs : Pyramid Wall Area
About a Rope   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Cochrane Lane Cliffs : Pyramid Wall Area
Theme Night Direct    5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 80'   Cedar point
Tequila and Limestone   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 90'   Cedar point
Torpedoes and Jellyfish   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 70'   Cedar point
Jester   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 50'   Kingston Crag : Jester Wall
Leviathan   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, 30'   Cochrane Lane Cliffs : Cave Area
Cornifluge   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Mount Douglas-East Face : Main Face
Browse More Classics in New Brunswick

Featured Route For New Brunswick
Sexual Education V2

Sexual Education V2 5+  North America : Canada : ... : Evandale Quarry
Start on the left side under the large roof on smaller crimps, one move will gain large crimp rail. Pull the roof up to a slopey ledge then one strenuous move will allow you to grab the top and pull over. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of New Brunswick Slideshow Add Photo
Quizzical V4 at Munson
Quizzical V4 at Munson
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