New Brunswick is considered the drive-by province. Despite having been labelled that, it offers lots of opportunities for the visiting climber. All of the climbing areas are located in the South.
The Welsford area located in Southern NB has 5 crags and offers lots of opportunities (500 routes) wether you want to trad climb, sport climb, Toprope, Aid climb and even ice climb! The climbing in Welsford is situated on the southern tip of the Gagetown Military Base. As a result, climbers have an agreement with the military to be able to access the cliffs.
Aside from these crags in the Welsford Valley, New Brunswick offers a lot more climbing, mainly sport climbing.
Tired of climbing on granite?, Cedar Point in the City of Saint John consists of an old limestone quarry. Surprisingly, the rock is quality and the location is nice and quaint.
Saint Andrews in the southwest offers unique sport climbing on basalt with magnificent views of the St-Croix River. There are about 40 routes in the region.
Kingston Crag in the Kennebecasis valley is a nice small sport crag that contains a variety of grades on very special rock.
Utopia area has a huge granite overhang currently undevelopped that will probably boast NB's first 5.14's...
There is also really good Bouldering in Munson Lake near Lepreau. The huge granite blocks scattered through clearcuts are well featured and range frome V0 to V hard. The Granite is also very high quality.
This list is not complete and should give the reader an idea of the surprising amount of rock we have in Southern NB.
New Brunswick is South of Gaspésie (Qc), West of PEI and Nova Scotia and east of Maine.
All of the rock climbing in NB is located in the south of the province. On the other hand, the ice can be found everywhere in the province.
221 Total Routes
['4 Stars',29],['3 Stars',90],['2 Stars',58],['1 Star',40],['Bomb',2]
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for New Brunswick:
Featured Route For New Brunswick
Deception Dike 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b North America
: ... : Lowwer Tier
At the far right end of the main wall is a right trending dike which looks like a 5.6. The dike becomes very faint at the end and a difficult top-out variation is possible. Very nice climbing until the ridiculously hard last move to pull over the top (mono-sloper-sidepull-highstep-hand-foot-match-mantle-dyno anyone?) The first route climbed at Bald Hill. A possible exit may also go out left to a crack.Description by P.J Adamson...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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