This is an outstanding route that is usually less crowded than other routes in RR of the same quality. It is possible to climb only the crux first pitch and rap with double ropes but the whole climb is fun and interesting; especially the fourth.
Y2K is located on the north-east corner of the Mescalito. On the approach, spot a pinkish dihedral that has a sharp curve to the right in it. To the right of this dihedral is a bolted face that leads to a roof. This is the route.
P1: 5.10a, 150' Begin atop a large boulder leaning against the face. Climb up past several bolts to the overhang. Turn the overhang (crux) and continue up the crack and face to a bolted belay. The crux is very well protected with a bolt and you can place a good cam just above the bolt.
P2: 5.8, 160' Climb straight up the face to a huge ledge and a double-bolt belay. There are two ledges here; one stepped above the other.
P3: 5.5, 50' Scramble up onto the next ledge and work around to the right. Traverse straight right to a nice belay alcove at the base of a right facing corner and build a gear anchor.
P4: 5.9, 150' Climb the stellar right facing corner. Near the top, the crack goes from thin to non-existent and pro becomes a bit tricky. Step left onto a ledge and belay from the anchors. I'd give this pitch a PG rating but it is superb.
Decent: 3 double rope raps.
Protection
Lots of bolts but bring a rack of gear from tiny to about 2".
Watch out for the "Y2K bug" on this route, you need 55 or 60m ropes. We did it with twin 50's, and had to simulclimb the final 15' of the second pitch. It didn't take a genius to see we were in trouble for the descent, this wall is steep and you can't just downclimb the bottom of the pitch. We left a double sling on that anchor and went down, you can be sure the ends were knotted. Due to rope stretch we made it, but by less than 6 feet.
The pitch lengths are not 20th century compliant! Woe to the poor souls who venture on this route with two 150 ft ropes!
There is another belay stance at the end of p3 that has a bolt (and backs up with gear). Unfortuntely, it's about 10 feet below the gear-only stance, and you can't really see the bolt until you're basically at the stance (it's obscured during the traverse by a corner/overlap).
The mental switch from the steep and positive holds on the first two pitches to the insecure traversing of p3 was a challenge.
We backed down from the crux. Probably could have aided it but it was getting late and we spend way too much time trying to free it. Didn't seem anywhere near 10a. Next time I'll just aid through and not waste my effort there.
We climbed this again this past Monday. A few comments on P2: I took note of the rope I had left after pulling up the excess on P2 and it was only about 20'! We had a 60m so this pitch must be closer to 180'. Also, P2 has 3 or 4 bolts and they're hard to see. If you have trouble figuring out which way to go, as the pitch wanders a bit, look for these. This is a long, steep and beautiful pitch as good as anything on CC.
Climbed this route 5/02/04. Was comfortable with the pro and appreciated the bolt below the roof. Once I figured the right foot sequence the roof went easily. Did not find P4 to be stellar as it was mostly low 5th.
"Did not find P4 to be stellar as it was mostly low 5th."
So you find quality only in harder routes/pitches? Can 5.5 climbing be "stellar" for you? I've done lots of stellar 4th class climbing; probably even 3rd...
Sorry if i came off as an elitist snob. What could be more stellar than the 3rd-4th class finish of Epinephrine? The last 15 feet of p4 of Y2K was very good but that doesn't make the whole pitch stellar IMHO
I think part of my dissappointment with the pitch in question was my expectations of it after reading about it here. It is an airy pitch with solid rock and some nice moves. Just not "stellar" in my book.
Thought first pitch is the best, but overall a worthwhile route to do to its end. The traverse on 3 is great fun. Only wish there was more. The last pitch is 160 feet. Swain's topo obscures the "1" in 160. The last ten feet of the dihedral are the crux, and more like 5.8. Three straightforward raps to the bottom. We got hung up on the last rap when the rope caught on something about 20-25 feet up, but were able to free it from the ground.
By Guy Humphrey From: Fort Collins CO Oct 26, 2004 rating: 5.10b
The P1 roof crux is a tough one to figure out (5.10b/c). I had to climb up and down 3 time before I figured out the move. There is a good crimp in the crack for the left hand, high step with the left, and grab the side pull. Get a knee or foot on the ledge to the right and grab the large bucket. It then reverts back to fun 5.8-5.9 climbing to the anchor.
P2 has two variations off of the belay. Straight up is beautiful face and thin crack climbing 5.8, but poorly protected. (tiny cams and nuts) A 5.6 variation on the left avoids the runout, but make sure you use long slings.
The rap from P4 is known to grab ropes, so be careful.
By J. Thompson From: denver, co Jun 8, 2005 rating: 5.10a
I thought the route was a bit contrived. With the culprit being the traverse. Why when there is a crack going straight up, would you traverse straight right to gain a different crack, that takes you to the same place?
An outstanding route. The key to the roof on the first pitch is a small flake high on the face to the left of the crack. The first time I did this move I didn't see the flake and the move felt harder than 10b. This time it felt easier than 10b and with this beta my 2 followers fired the move with no problem.
Put your right hand on the nice hold about 18 inches up the crack and your left on the flake and work your feet up, eventually pivoting up on your left.
Pro is a little tricky and sparse going straight up from the anchors on pitch 2 but very fun! I used small gear for the entire pitch. The biggest cam I used for pitch 2 was a #1 cam.
By Jeremy From: Boulder, CO Jul 3, 2006 rating: 5.9+
Super fun route! I can't in good consience gove this a 10a rating. It was a pretty straightforward move. If this is 10a then Chicken Eruptus should be 10d.
By Jim Matt From: Indianapolis, IN May 3, 2007 rating: 5.10a
I would say 5.10a if you can wire the two moves over the roof (it took me a couple of tries...but the aforementioned beta is right on...a well placed left crimp and a hidden high left foot are key, step up and grab the high jug with the right hand). Otherwise, the rest of the route runs about 5.8+.
1st pitch: 5.7 buckets to a 5.9+/10a move over the roof...more 5.7 2nd pitch: 5.7+ .Climb straight over the belay for the best rock and experience. There is good pro up and giant holds up there until you get to the first bolt.Stays easy! The rock to either side is chossy. 3rd pitch: Do the traverse into the corner. One bolt for the belay in the corner. Med cams for backup if you wish. 4th pitch: 5.7 fun climbing to the end of the corner. Maybe a 5.8 move up there? Good, small wire pro from big stances. Lots of face holds. NOT 5.9!!!!!!!!!
Fun route enjoyed it thoroughly. My only questions are: why so many bolts on the first pitch compared to the second pitch? When you leave the first belay going straight up, it seemed a bit run out. I found some marginal small wire placements and did not really feel like I got a decent nut in for at least 15ft maybe 20ft up past the belay. The climbing was not all that hard granted, but why bolt the heck out of the first pitch making it literally a sport climb and not have a bolt on the second pitch for about 40ft up? I thought the climbing was very similar on the first two pitches and of similar difficulty other then the pull over the roof of course.
I only had time for the first pitch, but it was excellent. The beta above was spot on, flake up and left was key for me. Gear between bolts is good, fun juggy climbing on beautiful rock, cool crux over the roof.
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