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Looking Glass Rock
Evolv Prime Climbing Shoe

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Millet Triolet 30 Backpack - 1830cu in

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East Face/Guides Wall (Left side) 
East Face/Guides Wall (Right Side) 
Hidden Wall 
North Side 
Nose Area 
South Side 
Sun Wall 

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Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Burnt Mountain Trail
Excellent singletrack with only a short very technical section. Near Brevard, NC
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Looking Glass Rock 


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Lat, Long: 35.2948, -82.7882 Map
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Administrators: saxfiend, Edward Medina, Ryan Williams, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: saxfiend on Oct 14, 2006

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  • 2013 Closures in effect MORE INFO >>>
  • 2013 Closures MORE INFO >>>


  • Looking up the first pitch of Sundial Crack over a...

    Description 

    Located near Brevard, Looking Glass has a huge range of climbing opportunities. Aid climbers will find grade IV and V lines reminiscent of Yosemite on the North Side; free trad climbers flock to the famous "eyebrows" of the Nose Area and Sun Wall.

    Route development on Looking Glass granite began in the mid-60s, with signature routes like The Nose. The area was little-known except among the locals in the early days; pioneers of the day included Steve Longenecker, Jim McEver and especially Bob Mitchell. The mid-70s brought another wave of first ascents and more notice from outside the area; over the next decade or so, routes were put up by climbers like Jeep Gaskin, Bob Rotert, Monty Reagan, Whitney Heuermann, Diff Ritchie and Chis Caldwell.

    Climbing at Looking Glass is best during the fall and winter months. The North Side and Hidden Wall sections are shady enough for summer climbing. Because it's located in the Pisgah National Forest, camping is plentiful in the area.


    Getting There 

    Looking Glass is located near Brevard, NC. Take US 276 northeast from Brevard into Pisgah National Forest, then continue about five miles to the intersection with FR 475; take a left here. After a few miles on 475, the road turns to gravel and splits. Take the right fork and look for a parking lot with the sign for Slickrock Falls Trail. This is parking for the South Side area of Looking Glass; for the Nose Area and Sun Wall, continue almost two miles further to the Sunwall Trail parking lot. Parking for the North Side and Hidden Wall is in a pullout roughly a quarter-mile past the Sunwall Trail.


    The Classics

    Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Looking Glass Rock:
    Second Coming   5.7     Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet   South Side
    Sundial Crack   5.8-     Trad, 4 pitches, 430 feet, Grade III   Nose Area
    The Nose   5.8     Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III   Nose Area
    Rat's Ass   5.8+     Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet   South Side
    Gemini Crack   5.8+     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   South Side
    Titties & Beer (aka "World's Hardest 5.8")   5.9     Trad, 5 pitches, 500 feet   Sun Wall
    Hyperbola   5.10a R     Trad, 4 pitches, 550 feet   Nose Area
    Dinkus Dog   5.10-     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   South Side
    Pooter the Poacher   5.10c     Trad, 1 pitch, 180 feet   North Side
    Chaos Out of Control   5.10c     Trad, 2 pitches, 190 feet   South Side
    Invisible Airwaves   5.10c A2     Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 240 feet, Grade III   North Side
    The Womb   5.11a     Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet, Grade II   North Side
    Cornflake Crack   5.11a     Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet, Grade II   North Side
    The Odyssey   5.11-     Trad, 5 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II   Sun Wall
    Safari Jive   5.11c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   North Side
    Bombelay   5.11+     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   North Side
    Whitney's Excellent Route   5.11d     Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet   North Side
    Waste Not, Want Not   5.12     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   North Side
    The Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test   5.12c/d     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120 feet   Sun Wall
    The Glass Menagerie   5.13a PG13     Trad, 7 pitches, 900 feet, Grade IV   North Side
    Browse More Classics in Looking Glass Rock

    Featured Route For Looking Glass Rock
    Mary getting into the fun water groove above the crux on P2.

    Chaos Out of Control 5.10c  NC : Looking Glass Rock : South Side
    I feel this could be the best 5.10 face route on the Glass. Chaos offers sustained climbing on flawless rock. The gear is good and a bit spaced out at times but nothing death defying. The Lambert guide describes this route in two pitches but we used to always do it in one long pitch. You'll need 2 60m ropes to rap.One memorable ascent involved my buddy Curtin on the on sight attempt on a late summer's evening. The clouds were turning black fast as he moved past the first belay. Not long af...[more]   Browse More Classics in NC


    Photos of Looking Glass Rock Slideshow Add Photo
    A view of the "Glass" from John's Rock.

    A view of the "Glass" from John's Rock.

    The length of looking glass rock (Dec 06)

    BETA PHOTO: The length of looking glass rock (Dec 06)

    Nice and green in the winter.  Pisgah has some really beautiful approach hikes.

    Nice and green in the winter. Pisgah has some rea...

    Your best friend at the Glass

    Your best friend at the Glass

    Starting out on the 2nd pitch of Brain Dead... mid 90's.

    Starting out on the 2nd pitch of Brain Dead... mid...

    A ladder to the sky on Carolina Hog Farm... mid 90's.

    A ladder to the sky on Carolina Hog Farm... mid 90...

    A shady look at LG from miles away on the parkway.

    A shady look at LG from miles away on the parkway.

    Looking Glass in "Scottish Conditions"

    Looking Glass in "Scottish Conditions"

    rest day at nearby Sliding Rock with my pooch Maggie

    rest day at nearby Sliding Rock with my pooch Magg...

    Scott McCook soloing Fat Dog 5.7 in the early 80s.

    Scott McCook soloing Fat Dog 5.7 in the early 80s.

    The western edge of the North Face of Looking Glass. Carolina Hog Farm ascends the profile of this buttress on the left.

    The western edge of the North Face of Looking Glas...

    Fall Colors East side of Sun-Wall looking West toward Devils Court House Oct 2011

    Fall Colors East side of Sun-Wall looking West tow...

    North side & Nose of Looking Glass from a location that is now overgrown & Gone taken late 80tys!

    North side & Nose of Looking Glass from a location...

    Looking Glass from afar

    Looking Glass from afar

    Hidden Wall, North Side & Nose in Spring 2012

    Hidden Wall, North Side & Nose in Spring 2012

    Looking Glass Sun Wall & South Side from Stone Depot, Cedar Rock NC.

    Looking Glass Sun Wall & South Side from Stone Dep...

    CC starting out on The Sea of Brows by the Waste side 2nd pitch with Eddie Begoon on belay, 11-88.

    CC starting out on The Sea of Brows by the Waste s...

    Watch out for these guys...

    Watch out for these guys...

    I shot this photo while doing some flying in the Asheville area. I think it's Looking Glass Rock but I am not from the area. It was shot from the North.

    I shot this photo while doing some flying in the A...

    From the blue ridge parkway...

    From the blue ridge parkway...


    Comments on Looking Glass Rock Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By reddirt
    Dec 13, 2006

    so you're wondering, what the hell are ^^eyebrows^^ ??

    By saxfiend
    Administrator
    From: Decatur, GA
    Dec 18, 2006

    That's a very handy link, reddirtgirl -- and from a LG pioneer, no less!

    By Ryan Williams
    Administrator
    From: London (sort of)
    Oct 27, 2011

    I realize that LG is popular, but I've always wondered why more people don't spend days or weeks at a time climbing here. It is perfect, really. Free camping in the Natl Forest, 20 minutes from Brevard where you can get excellent food and beer. Go to Looking Glass Outfitters for beta and partners, Pescado's for burritos and wireless, and the Square Root for beer.

    I haven't found showers yet...

    By Br'er Rabbit
    From: The Deeper South
    Oct 31, 2011

    Shower's can be had for a nominal fee from Davidson River Campground if you are not staying there. If camping there, they're free, but I find the National Forest more appealing as well.