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East Face/Guides Wall (Left side) 
East Face/Guides Wall (Right Side) 
Hidden Wall 
North Side 
Nose Area 
South Side 
Sun Wall 

Looking Glass Rock 


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Administrators: saxfiend, Edward Medina, Ryan Williams
Submitted By: saxfiend on Oct 14, 2006

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Tue Wed Thu Fri Sat
Thunderstorm
77° | 55°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
79° | 55°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
82° | 57°
Partly Cloudy
84° | 57°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
88° | 61°
North Face of Looking Glass Rock is closed from January 15th - August 15th MORE INFO >>>


Looking up the first pitch of Sundial Crack over a...

Description 

Located near Brevard, Looking Glass has a huge range of climbing opportunities. Aid climbers will find grade IV and V lines reminiscent of Yosemite on the North Side; free trad climbers flock to the famous "eyebrows" of the Nose Area and Sun Wall.

Route development on Looking Glass granite began in the mid-60s, with signature routes like The Nose. The area was little-known except among the locals in the early days; pioneers of the day included Steve Longenecker, Jim McEver and especially Bob Mitchell. The mid-70s brought another wave of first ascents and more notice from outside the area; over the next decade or so, routes were put up by climbers like Jeep Gaskin, Bob Rotert, Monty Reagan, Whitney Heuermann, Diff Ritchie and Chis Caldwell.

Climbing at Looking Glass is best during the fall and winter months. The North Side and Hidden Wall sections are shady enough for summer climbing. Because it's located in the Pisgah National Forest, camping is plentiful in the area.


Getting There 

Looking Glass is located near Brevard, NC. Take US 276 northeast from Brevard into Pisgah National Forest, then continue about five miles to the intersection with FR 475; take a left here. After a few miles on 475, the road turns to gravel and splits. Take the right fork and look for a parking lot with the sign for Slickrock Falls Trail. This is parking for the South Side area of Looking Glass; for the Nose Area and Sun Wall, continue almost two miles further to the Sunwall Trail parking lot. Parking for the North Side and Hidden Wall is in a pullout roughly a quarter-mile past the Sunwall Trail.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Looking Glass Rock:
Second Coming   5.7     Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet   South Side
Sundial Crack   5.8-     Trad, 4 pitches, 430 feet, Grade III   Nose Area
The Nose   5.8     Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III   Nose Area
Gemini Crack   5.8+     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   South Side
Rat's Ass   5.8+     Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet   South Side
Titties & Beer (aka "World's Hardest 5.8")   5.9     Trad, 5 pitches, 500 feet   Sun Wall
Hyperbola   5.10a R     Trad, 4 pitches, 550 feet   Nose Area
Dinkus Dog   5.10b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   South Side
Chaos Out of Control   5.10c     Trad, 2 pitches, 190 feet   South Side
Pooter the Poacher   5.10c     Trad, 1 pitch, 180 feet   North Side
Invisible Airwaves   5.10c A2     Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 240 feet, Grade III   North Side
Creatures of Waste   5.10c A3     Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 300 feet, Grade IV   North Side
Cornflake Crack   5.11a     Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet, Grade II   North Side
The Womb   5.11a     Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet, Grade II   North Side
The Odyssey   5.11-     Trad, 5 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II   Sun Wall
Safari Jive   5.11c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   North Side
Bombelay   5.11+     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   North Side
Waste Not, Want Not   5.12     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   North Side
The Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test   5.12c/d     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120 feet   Sun Wall
The Glass Menagerie   5.13a PG13     Trad, 7 pitches, 900 feet, Grade IV   North Side
Browse More Classics in Looking Glass Rock

Featured Route For Looking Glass Rock
Topo

Scotty Pippen 5.10  NC : Looking Glass Rock : Sun Wall
A var. of Patrick Ewing.Belay at the base of the P. Ewing hand crack.Climb the hand crack to the 2nd bolt of PE. For Scotty Pippen, go straight up past the 2nd bolt to a 3rd bolt at very crisp positive crimps. Power over the bolt thru shallow bulges and good gear being careful with the "potato chip" hold. Mantle thur another bulge at the base of a final bulge. Clip the bolt and make a long reach to an eyebrow and step over on the low angled face. Climb 5.6 'brows to a good .4 C4 and traverse...[more]   Browse More Classics in NC


Photos of Looking Glass Rock Slideshow Add Photo
A view of the "Glass" from John's Rock.

A view of the "Glass" from John's Rock.

The length of looking glass rock (Dec 06)

BETA PHOTO: The length of looking glass rock (Dec 06)

Nice and green in the winter.  Pisgah has some really beautiful approach hikes.

Nice and green in the winter. Pisgah has some rea...

Your best friend at the Glass

Your best friend at the Glass

Starting out on the 2nd pitch of Brain Dead... mid 90's.

Starting out on the 2nd pitch of Brain Dead... mid...

A ladder to the sky on Carolina Hog Farm... mid 90's.

A ladder to the sky on Carolina Hog Farm... mid 90...

A shady look at LG from miles away on the parkway.

A shady look at LG from miles away on the parkway.

Looking Glass in "Scottish Conditions"

Looking Glass in "Scottish Conditions"

rest day at nearby Sliding Rock with my pooch Maggie

rest day at nearby Sliding Rock with my pooch Magg...

Scott McCook soloing Fat Dog 5.7 in the early 80s.

Scott McCook soloing Fat Dog 5.7 in the early 80s.

The western edge of the North Face of Looking Glass. Carolina Hog Farm ascends the profile of this buttress on the left.

The western edge of the North Face of Looking Glas...

Fall Colors East side of Sun-Wall looking West toward Devils Court House Oct 2011

Fall Colors East side of Sun-Wall looking West tow...

North side & Nose of Looking Glass from a location that is now overgrown & Gone taken late 80tys!

North side & Nose of Looking Glass from a location...

Looking Glass from afar

Looking Glass from afar

Hidden Wall, North Side & Nose in Spring 2012

Hidden Wall, North Side & Nose in Spring 2012


Comments on Looking Glass Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By reddirt
Dec 13, 2006

so you're wondering, what the hell are ^^eyebrows^^ ??

By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Dec 18, 2006

That's a very handy link, reddirtgirl -- and from a LG pioneer, no less!

By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From: Raleigh, NC
Oct 27, 2011

I realize that LG is popular, but I've always wondered why more people don't spend days or weeks at a time climbing here. It is perfect, really. Free camping in the Natl Forest, 20 minutes from Brevard where you can get excellent food and beer. Go to Looking Glass Outfitters for beta and partners, Pescado's for burritos and wireless, and the Square Root for beer.

I haven't found showers yet...

By BirminghamBen
From: Springville, Al
Oct 31, 2011

Shower's can be had for a nominal fee from Davidson River Campground if you are not staying there. If camping there, they're free, but I find the National Forest more appealing as well.