By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Aug 22, 2007 rating: 5.10c
| Another great climb on the Grand Wall base. This area is stacked!
The first two pitches are the best, but the remainder of the route is worth doing once. All anchors are bolted.
P1) 5.10a - strenuous layback moves off the ground lead to easier climbing. This pitch can be wet. P2) 5.10c - a long, thin technical corner. It gets progressively harder all the way, with the final 20 feet being the crux. Small nuts and/or very small TCUs needed at the crux. P3) 5.10a - A short pitch. Climb the corner with one hard move and then two bolts to the anchor. P4) 5.5 - Climb 30 feet up the corner to the right, clip a bolt, and then downclimb to the anchor P5) 5.8 - Climb the right facing corner. Two options above. Go right for a big 'ol wide flake, or go left for easier climbing. We opted to go left. Make a short traverse to gain another crack which leads to the below P6) 5.10b - Climb the right facing corner until it is possible to pull out of the corner onto the face to the left via a fun, bouldery move. A bolt protects this move, but you need to climb a little higher in the corner to clip it. More face climbing up flakes leads to the final anchor.
Rap the route with one rope.
Gear: Nuts including small ones, double set of cams from small TCUs to #1 camalot, one #2 camalot, one #3 camalot |