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Grand Wall Base Area
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Peasant's Route 

5.10c

   

FA: Les MacDonald, Jim Baldwin
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10c [details]
Length: 5 pitches, 420 feet
Season: when dry
Views: 512 page views

Submitted By: Adam on Dec 31, 2006


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Description 

An awesome left facing corner is where you begin. The first pitch is slick and ends at a ledge. Pitch 2 has the crux 10c layback. After that 4 shorter pitches get you to the end of the route, where you can rap with 1 60m rope.


Location 

Nice corner about 100' left of Exasperator.


Protection 

cams/slings



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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Jackson Hole, WY
Aug 22, 2007
rating: 5.10c

Another great climb on the Grand Wall base. This area is stacked!

The first two pitches are the best, but the remainder of the route is worth doing once. All anchors are bolted.

P1) 5.10a - strenuous layback moves off the ground lead to easier climbing. This pitch can be wet.
P2) 5.10c - a long, thin technical corner. It gets progressively harder all the way, with the final 20 feet being the crux. Small nuts and/or very small TCUs needed at the crux.
P3) 5.10a - A short pitch. Climb the corner with one hard move and then two bolts to the anchor.
P4) 5.5 - Climb 30 feet up the corner to the right, clip a bolt, and then downclimb to the anchor
P5) 5.8 - Climb the right facing corner. Two options above. Go right for a big 'ol wide flake, or go left for easier climbing. We opted to go left. Make a short traverse to gain another crack which leads to the below
P6) 5.10b - Climb the right facing corner until it is possible to pull out of the corner onto the face to the left via a fun, bouldery move. A bolt protects this move, but you need to climb a little higher in the corner to clip it. More face climbing up flakes leads to the final anchor.

Rap the route with one rope.

Gear: Nuts including small ones, double set of cams from small TCUs to #1 camalot, one #2 camalot, one #3 camalot

By slim
Aug 6, 2008

i think you mean right facing on pitches 5 and 6. fun route. crux pitch felt about a number grade harder than exasperator.