|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 1000', Grade III|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||Mark Hesse and Duncan Ferguson 1974|
|Submitted By:||Julian Smith on Jun 9, 2002|
|Comments on Hesse-Ferguson||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Dan St. John
From: Castle Rock
Aug 5, 2002
One of my most memorable climbs, max stars. The rout requires some composure. It is hard to tell what is what on pitch two,(not my lead) never the less all lines look about equal. Pitch three starts the business ( a great lead with some head control necessary). Julian's description is perfect yet I feel their need to be a foot note.
_It is my opinion that we were off rout since the guide book talk about a giant roof going at 10d. Fact; we were definitely under the biggest roof on the face.
_ Counter Fact; However the giant roof did not feel like 10d (but did not feel 5.9 relative to the other 5.9 pitches maybe 10a/b)
So do not discouraged if you end up there. The gear at the roof is GREAT, if you got their via the 5.8s you will turn it with a smile. There finish after the roof to the ledge is casual climbing but run out.
SuggestionsDouble up one the small gear (micro cams) and save a #4 Camalot for the lip of the roof. This will allow the leader on the second pitch off the grassy ledge to continue a full rope length. Bring some OFF bug stray for the grassy ledge.
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 5, 2002
|Dan, I'm confused by your comment. The normal HF route goes through a giant roof "the largest in the area" on p. 3, why do you assume you were on the Roger Briggs 10d variation? I believe both tackle large roofs, but it seems to me if it felt like 10a it was probably the right (correct) roof for this route, as described above. I have climbed this roof as a variation to the Culp Bossier and it is truely wild!|
By Alan Searcy
From: Pine, Colorado
Aug 6, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
|Good fun, I'm pretty sure we did most of the route. My partners Jess and Eric had shit-eatin' grins at every belay. On Hallett I've never been particularly confident that I've been on any specific route after about pitch 3 anyway but it doesn't matter, it's just great climbing. The large roof is certainly old school and only needs a #3 Camalot and a yellow Alien. It's in the top two on this rock.|
By Jeff Bevan
Jun 26, 2006
|Did yet another variation on the same theme. From the top of pitch one stepped right to a large right facing dihedral. Climbed it to where it is capped by whitish manky rock and seta belay at a large detached block with rap slings around it. From this belay, climbed right out across a broken face (.9-) to where the large right facing dihedral of of Gillett's variation "b" bombbays out. Climb overlaps up into dihedral (.11+) and set belay. Climbed directly up dihedral referenced in Gillett's variation (.9). Continued as for Culp/Bossier. Except for the out of character .11+ overlaps this is a great way to do this route. Will have to go back and try the "regular" way of doing the route.|