Feltonian Physics 

I'll use "Feltonian Physics" to make a couple of observations on technique and protection:(1) I seldom if ever see anyone using laybacks(liebacks)when that particular technique would be advantageous: the start on "Feltonian Physics" would be easier and more pleasant; the first ten feet or so of "Touch and GO" also; and, wandering off a bit, getting to "The Elephant's Ear" on the "Open Book" goes 5.7 as a layback.(2) On and off over the years, I've had cams pop on me that I felt were well placed. Last year in Colorado, I place the "ideal" cam in an "ideal" crack on an overhanging 10a and leaned back to take a rest; I took a twenty footer. I've gone back to carrying a few tri-cams; they take longer to place but are often much more reliable. They are also far superior in horizontal, flaring cracks. In Red Rocks, they can be placed quite nicely in the erosion holes that one often comes across. If you're concerned about them loosening up, set them hard and sling them. Last, they are cheap.(3) Small wires(I carry a mix.)seem to many young climbers a mystery. "You trust those?" I've heard a couple of times. Not only do I trust them, they expand your options for pro placement. Many times when wanting to place pro(and most definitely needing to place pro)I've fallen back on the wee wires as the only option and been damned happy to have them along.

A fun route. PS: I liked Woody's comments about using laybacks and a broader range of protection.

Fun climb with a lot of variety. The wide part might be a little tricky for some, although it's really not much (if any) harder than the first twenty feet of White Lightning. A #4 camalot comes in handy.

I'll tell you what, coming out of the traverse into the crack between the two boulders on top was intimidating! I kept trying to mantel the ledge under the boulders but kept hitting my head on the roof they made. I was exhausted and just flopped my belly on the ledge and caught my breath while seeing what to do. I finally mantled the ledge with my right arm only, reached my left hand high in the crack and and let myself swing back under my hand jam and finished it. Kind of an advanced motion that I wasn't expecting on a 5.8. I loved the climb!

Agreed, tricky, tricky finish. I found myself kneeling on the ledge below the final overhang and reaching up for a hand jam. What a great route! Lots of character and variety.

If he was referring to the final moves between the two boulders at the top, Woody's comment that the overhang at the top is 5.4 is complete bullshit.

Never met Woody (RIP), but I've read enough objective opinions about the guy to guess he was something of a nut. I love his many contributions and comments on MP. Always a treat to stumble on one here. Take them with a grain of salt.

After you place a cam to protect the final moves, slot a nut or hex above the cam. Otherwise, your rope will stuff the cam deep into the crack as you belay your second.

I don't believe Woody was talking about going up a crack at the end but straight up over the roof instead of the second traverse shown in the beta photo by Blitzo. I'd say straight up is 5.4, and fun!

Chris D's advice to slot a nut to protect your cam on the final jams out of the cave is accurate! Spent a good 15 minutes retrieving a #5 master cam out of that stupid thing!