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Hemingway Buttress (East Face Left)
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White Lightning T 

Feltonian Physics 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Randy Vogel & Charles Cole, February 1980
Page Views: 2,552
Submitted By: Woody Stark on Feb 27, 2004

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BETA PHOTO: "Feltonian Physics". Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

This route is the obvious crack to the right of "Golden Years". You start off a block into a right facing corner. My advice here is to place your pro then layback the crack. Near the top, traverse right under an overhang then up again. Surmount the overhang at the top. Beginning this route via "Golden Years" is more interesting. One more thing, the overhang at the top is no more than 5.4; however, one must have the usual five senses.

Protection 

standard rack


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By Woody Stark
Jun 8, 2004

I'll use "Feltonian Physics" to make a couple of observations on technique and protection:(1) I seldom if ever see anyone using laybacks(liebacks)when that particular technique would be advantageous: the start on "Feltonian Physics" would be easier and more pleasant; the first ten feet or so of "Touch and GO" also; and, wandering off a bit, getting to "The Elephant's Ear" on the "Open Book" goes 5.7 as a layback.(2) On and off over the years, I've had cams pop on me that I felt were well placed. Last year in Colorado, I place the "ideal" cam in an "ideal" crack on an overhanging 10a and leaned back to take a rest; I took a twenty footer. I've gone back to carrying a few tri-cams; they take longer to place but are often much more reliable. They are also far superior in horizontal, flaring cracks. In Red Rocks, they can be placed quite nicely in the erosion holes that one often comes across. If you're concerned about them loosening up, set them hard and sling them. Last, they are cheap.(3) Small wires(I carry a mix.)seem to many young climbers a mystery. "You trust those?" I've heard a couple of times. Not only do I trust them, they expand your options for pro placement. Many times when wanting to place pro(and most definitely needing to place pro)I've fallen back on the wee wires as the only option and been damned happy to have them along.
By Randy
Aug 28, 2005

A fun route. PS: I liked Woody's comments about using laybacks and a broader range of protection.
By Tyler Logan
From: Bishop, CA
Mar 24, 2008

Fun climb with a lot of variety. The wide part might be a little tricky for some, although it's really not much (if any) harder than the first twenty feet of White Lightning. A #4 camalot comes in handy.
By Jon Hartmann
From: Ojai, CA
Feb 3, 2009

I'll tell you what, coming out of the traverse into the crack between the two boulders on top was intimidating! I kept trying to mantel the ledge under the boulders but kept hitting my head on the roof they made. I was exhausted and just flopped my belly on the ledge and caught my breath while seeing what to do. I finally mantled the ledge with my right arm only, reached my left hand high in the crack and and let myself swing back under my hand jam and finished it. Kind of an advanced motion that I wasn't expecting on a 5.8. I loved the climb!
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Mar 26, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Agreed, tricky, tricky finish. I found myself kneeling on the ledge below the final overhang and reaching up for a hand jam. What a great route! Lots of character and variety.
By Chris D
From: the couch
Jan 3, 2012

If he was referring to the final moves between the two boulders at the top, Woody's comment that the overhang at the top is 5.4 is complete bullshit.

Never met Woody (RIP), but I've read enough objective opinions about the guy to guess he was something of a nut. I love his many contributions and comments on MP. Always a treat to stumble on one here. Take them with a grain of salt.

After you place a cam to protect the final moves, slot a nut or hex above the cam. Otherwise, your rope will stuff the cam deep into the crack as you belay your second.
By Drederek
Mar 31, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I don't believe Woody was talking about going up a crack at the end but straight up over the roof instead of the second traverse shown in the beta photo by Blitzo. I'd say straight up is 5.4, and fun!
By Canon
Nov 17, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Chris D's advice to slot a nut to protect your cam on the final jams out of the cave is accurate! Spent a good 15 minutes retrieving a #5 master cam out of that stupid thing!
By RNclimber
From: Riverside, Ca
Feb 27, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I did this route yesterday. pulling the last moved required a #2 C4 I believe. I didn't use a nut or hex, but I did put a #3 c4 up top to prevent my rope from sliding into the crack to bring up my follower.

#4 c4 does help on the traverse to the right at the very end