Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches
FA: Mike Brennan, Larry Fielden, Jerry Radinoff, Henry Shervem, Jerry Polasky March 1973
Page Views: 9,323 total · 42/month
Shared By: ClimbandMine on Jan 29, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Cory B, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

Continue along the base of the wall, past Tollhouse Traverse, until you see a large, detached flake leaning against the wall. You know you are in the right place if you see two finger cracks, approximately 15 feet apart that angle up and join each other about 20 feet up. The left-hand crack comes from under the detached flake resting against the wall, and goes generally up and right. The thin, right-hand flake angles up and left and is often full of grass.

Pitch 1: Follow the left-hand finger crack crack up 20-25 feet to where it meets Beginner's Delight, forming an upside down "Y". The crack progressively widens to big hands or small fists, and the climbing gets very easy. Follow the crack to bolted anchors.

Pitch 2: Follow easy-to-spot bolts up a mix of friction and edging. This pitch is quite run-out, and falling is not a good idea here. Old farts will argue about grades and how/easy this pitch is, and I won't add to the debate. I'll just say, it's friction so be mentally prepared if that's not your normal style

Pitch 3:  Be careful here. Going straight up from the belay puts you on "The Shining Path 5.10" which is significantly harder. It's an easy enough mistake to make, as the first two bolts straight up from the anchor are pretty easy looking.

Instead, traverse right from the belay to obviously easier territory. As you follow bolts up, Tollhouse Traverse will come into your view on the right, and a dihedral will loom above and to your left. Keep going to bolted anchors.

Pitch 4: From here, the line of bolts continues straight up. You can also elect to join The Traverse by angling towards the dihedral and pulling around to the left of it to attain unbolted but easy slab on the other side. This slab will lead you straight up to anchors and a third class walk off.

All pitches are 35 meters. All pitches after the first involve run-outs of 20 feet or more over friction and very small edges. 

Protection Suggest change

Double Aliens to orange, Camalots to #2 - maybe a #3 also for the belay. Double set of nuts. There is a bolted rap station.

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