Elevation: 3,891 ft
GPS: 37.033, -119.387 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 89,672 total · 419/month
Shared By: ClimbandMine on Feb 8, 2003
Admins: M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

Tollhouse Rock is a 600' granite dome located about an hour northeast of Fresno, at 4000' in the foothills between Fresno and Shaver Lake. A stellar winter weekend destination (or day trip for us locals), it has some of everything -- sport routes, multipitch trad and runout face, and a little bouldering. The views of the Sierra and the valleys unfolding below the dome are fabulous, and definitely make a belay on top of another stellar pitch all the more enjoyable. Routes range from 5.5 to 5.12. If you plan on camping, it is possible at Tollhouse, but watch out for drunk rednecks with guns. With a 4WD you can get to the top of Tollhouse Rock and access some hidden spots, though.

The crag Squarenail, just down the highway from Tollhouse rock, is also included in this area due to its proximity. It contains primarily sport routes from 5.7 to 5.12, although a few cracks are available, as well as a boulder with some aid routes.

Getting There

From Fresno, the most straight-forward route to Tollhouse Rock and Squarenail is to follow HWY 168 east (if coming from outside Fresno, take the Shaw Ave. Exit off 99 East to 168) past Prather. Its about 35 miles to Prather. Two miles or so past Prather is a stop sign where 168 turns left - follow it.

5.2 miles up the highway (this section is known to locals as "the 4-lane") is a sweeping left hand curve, and roadcut, and a pullout on the right side (hop the curb). This is the pullout for Squarenail. A trail to the cliff starts at the beginning of the roadcut and a slabby rock, and is kind of hidden by brush. It will take you to the top of the cliff. Scramble down the gully on the left to access climbs on the main face, or continue across the top and follow the trail and gully down to access climbs on the left side of the cliff.

To access Tollhouse Rock, continue up the 4-lane for a few miles. Right after it ends, turn right on Tollhouse Road. About 1-1.5 miles down the road, a saddle is reached with an obvious dirt road and parking area on the left. With 4wd or moderate clearance, follow the road under powerlines and park. A serious 4WD road leads up to the top of the descent slab/trail. This is taken to Sunday Slab and the main wall.

55 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Tollhouse Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 111
Tollhouse Traverse
Trad 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 51
Elephant Walk
Trad 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 7
Old Fart's Edge
Trad 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 23
Free and Easy
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 20
Seven Bolts
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 8
Nuts and Bolts
Trad 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 11
Fabulously Fresno
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 28
Beginner's Delight
Trad, Sport 4 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
Taking a Bath With Strangers
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 14
Platinum Plus
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 16
Wandering Taoist
Trad, Sport 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 12
Art Baker Memorial
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 4
The Headwall
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 17
Shining Path
Trad, Sport 4 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
Anasazi
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Tollhouse Traverse Main Wall
 111
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 4 pitches
Elephant Walk Main Wall
 51
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
Old Fart's Edge Main Wall
 7
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
Free and Easy Main Wall
 23
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Seven Bolts Hippo Wall
 20
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Nuts and Bolts Main Wall
 8
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
Fabulously Fresno Hippo Wall
 11
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Beginner's Delight Main Wall
 28
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Sport 4 pitches
Taking a Bath With Strangers Hippo Wall
 8
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Platinum Plus Cap Rocks
 14
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
Wandering Taoist Main Wall
 16
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport 4 pitches
Art Baker Memorial Memorial Wall
 12
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad 2 pitches
The Headwall Main Wall
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Shining Path Main Wall
 17
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport 4 pitches
Anasazi Frantic Manic Area
 3
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Tollhouse Rock »

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