Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: MIke Brennan, Mark Haymond 1972
Page Views: 1,231 total · 18/month
Shared By: powderfinger on Mar 13, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

Pitch 1: 5.7 chimney for 80ft Belay at top of chimney. Pitch 2: From belay climb left past a small roof for 5.8 featured face climbing or right for 5.7 friction. You can get in one piece after the belay in the roof and then it is about twenty feet to a bolt at the bottom of a crack. Follow shallow finger sized crack to bolted belay. Pitch 3: 5.7 continue to follow the crack system past a single bolt to a 2 bolt belay. Pitch 4: Traverse left on slabs to a very small right facing corner like feature that eventually leads to a gully and another ledge from here it is 3rd class. You can stop at another two bolted belay before the third class. We just simuled to the top.

Location

On the Far Side of Tollhouse past Elephant Walk. Starts in the Chimney to the Left of Old Fart's Edge.

Protection

Standard Rack to 3"

Photos

FrankPS
Atascadero, CA
FrankPS   Atascadero, CA
The bolt after the first pitch roof (at the top of the chimney), is more like 40 feet away, with no pro in between. Jan 24, 2014
powderfinger
san mateo
  5.7
powderfinger   san mateo
  5.7
The Slater guidebook also states that the bolt is 20ft above the belay. I took the 5.8 "edges" option and found a placement about 10 feet from the belay (in my description above) Believe me, if I was 40ft out facing a factor two fall on a gear anchor it would be etched in my memory and I would make sure to mention it. Did you take the 5.7 friction version? Jan 31, 2014
FrankPS
Atascadero, CA
FrankPS   Atascadero, CA
I took the 5.7 friction version, but started from the bolted anchor to the right of the chimney. Downclimbed back to the bolted anchor, as I wasn't "prepared" to lead the rest of the route. The one time I climbed the chimney, I looked up at that bolt, which is close to 40 feet away. Didn't see any opportunities for pro, so I rapped from the bolted anchor.

Good to know there is pro ten feet above the chimney. Still, I think the bolt is approximately 40 feet above the chimney belay. Mar 16, 2014
This route is excellent and the route name aptly describes the variety of climbing. Be sure to get in a cam under the roof before going over it because regardless of which way (5.7 or 5.8) you go, you are moving through the crux with no pro above you (we went the 5.8 way). We were able to get in some very thin cams before the bolt, but the thin cams were a way up past the obvious crux.

I never found the two bolt belay just before the lower angle crack (described as a gully in the Kroll and Slater guide - it is a crack in some places and a wide crack in other places). I went up to a slight ledge with vegetation at the roof/edge about 30 feet to the right of the low angle crack. I expected the bolts to be there, but I guess they were further to the left. If you do this variation, you can put in cams in the crack and belay here or keep going as I did. Until this crack the only pro I found for about 50 feet was a somewhat poor tied off knob, but the climbing is about 5.4-5.5. Mar 16, 2015