Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Tollhouse Rock

Art Baker Memorial T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
At Your Leisure S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Balls T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Beginner's Delight T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cuticle Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Desperado T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dream Analysis TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elephant Walk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Free and Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Friday the 13th T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hang Left TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hangout, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Munge Master T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nuts and Bolts T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Fart's Edge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Platinum Plus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pop Quiz T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shining Path T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Silly Wizard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Step Left TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sunset Strip S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Think Nothing Of It T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tollhouse Traverse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
True Grip T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Uncorner, The TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Wandering Taoist T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wish Sandwich T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,381 total, 19/month
Shared By: Jeremy R on Nov 26, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


16 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Start to the right of "Wish Sandwich" and climb. P1 starts by linking discontinuos cracks until you get to the nice left facing corner (might be the crux but you are having too much fun to notice). After 70M belay on a nice three bolt belay on a ledge. P2: slab climb past three bolts (maybe four now if this section was retro'd. crux) to join a left facing corner. Plug gear until you reach the double bolt belay. P3: Climb up the remainder of the corner and turn it to gain a low angle slab (one bolt) for about 40 or 50 feet. Belay on a nice ledge with two bolts. 3rd/4th class up or climb one of the other pitches that lead to the top from this ledge.

Location

Right of Wish Sandwich.

Protection

to 3"
I've corrected the route description and fixed some lengths. I am very sorry if any confusion was caused, don't know what I was thinking when I wrote the original! Apr 27, 2016
Aaron Slaven
Fresno, CA
  5.7
Aaron Slaven   Fresno, CA
  5.7
I hadn't climb this route in years! To reiterate the previous comments the first pitch is a mega rope stretcher with a 70M. I've always just "entered" the climb on the 4th class ramp (Start of Archaeology). The 2nd bolted belay has now 2 BOLTS. So no more need to back it up with gear. Also the unprotected slab above the corner to the 3rd belay now has an added bolt. Munge Master
Really FUN route for Toll house!
Not counting "At Your Leisure", "Munge Master", and "Sunset Strip", there are now 3 exit variations at the top of Free and Easy. Check them out here...
facebook.com/permalink.php?… Apr 6, 2016
My wife and I just did Free and Easy from the bottom with a 60m rope. The first pitch requires a 70m rope, so we build a gear anchor half way up P1. This climb is marked as 3 pitches, not including a final 4th class walk off, but from the top belay station there are a number of bolts that are not listed in the guide book heading up, so we went on a little adventure (left set of bolts), and turned it into another decent windy pitch. Then from the bottom of cap rock we did what was a glorified bouldering problem, but quite challenging.

So we took what is marked as a 2 or 3 pitch route and did it in 5+ pitches (due to rope length and drag) of fun. Feb 28, 2016
If you are starting from the very bottom (very nice) and going all the way to the two bolt belay, it is a full 70 m pitch. I had just enough rope with a 70 m rope to clip into one of the bolts and set up a slingshot belay hanging from the rope on the bolt. The upper part of this pitch is fairly easy, but has a lot of opportunities for very small micro cams.

I used the single bolt and some cams in the crack to build a belay on our second pitch. This allows you to see your partner and keep the rope drag to a minimum. The third pitch is really nice. Mar 17, 2015
Matt N
Santa Barbara, CA
Matt N   Santa Barbara, CA
You also cannot combine P2/3 with a 60m as I found out (I was wondering WTF that bolt was doing next to a solid cam placement - oh a, belay - oops passed that one).
Not sustained at all, I'd give it a 5.7- if MP let me, but a nice climb. Jan 12, 2014
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.7
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.7
Agreed Frank. You do need to start a ways up to the right in order to make the first pitch work with a 60m rope. The description for Wish Sandwich is even worse because that does start further down the cliff and it is still listed as a 200 foot pitch. I had to simul-climb about 20 feet (with a 70m rope) so that my partner could reach the belay. Oct 27, 2013
FrankPS
Atascadero, CA
 
FrankPS   Atascadero, CA
 
Good climb. If you start from the bottom of the buttress, where there is a crack about 10 feet up, the first pitch is a full 70 meters. You can start higher up, but for full value, start at the bottom. Oct 26, 2013