Art Baker Memorial
Avg: 2.9 from 8 votes
|Type:||Trad, 350 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||John Ketcher, Richard Goodsen, Gary Goodsen, 3/70|
|Page Views:||1,310 total · 17/month|
|Shared By:||rhyang on Dec 21, 2011|
|Admins:||M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionPitch 1 (160', 5.7): surmount the roof and head up a liebacky thing to a bolted anchor. Pro is a little sparse and there are some hollow-sounding flakes -- be careful.
Pitch 2 (100', 5.9): sustained right-leaning finger crack with great pro, to bolted anchor with rap rings. I have read that this pitch can be wet sometimes, but we did it during a prolonged dry spell.
LocationTurn right at the bottom of the descent trail and traverse below the Hippo Wall (bolted slab routes). At the end of this slab will be a left-hand descent to routes such as the Tollhouse Traverse.
Instead, go straight and continue traversing along a climber's trail below the face, passing the Turret and Friday the 13th. The climber's trail should peter out at a tree, just below a roof. The route starts below the left side of the roof.
1. Rappel with either two 60m ropes or conceivably one 70m. The first rappel should get you to a bolted anchor with rings, which is a belay on Leapin' Lichen (5.10a R/X). Second rappel was ~120', so it might be a bit short with a 70m but probably doable.
2. Continue up some third-fourth class slab to Cap Rock, and either (a) climb Cuticle Corner (5.7), a short finger crack, to another bolted anchor, or (b) traverse right around the base of Cap Rock to where you can pick up a trail. Walk off after either option.