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Routes in Tollhouse Rock

Art Baker Memorial T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
At Your Leisure S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Balls T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Beginner's Delight T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cuticle Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Desperado T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dream Analysis TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elephant Walk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Free and Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Friday the 13th T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hang Left TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hangout, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Munge Master T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nuts and Bolts T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Fart's Edge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Platinum Plus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pop Quiz T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shining Path T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Silly Wizard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Step Left TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sunset Strip S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Think Nothing Of It T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tollhouse Traverse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
True Grip T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Uncorner, The TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Wandering Taoist T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wish Sandwich T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 2 pitches
FA: John Ketcher, Richard Goodsen, Gary Goodsen, 3/70
Page Views: 1,310 total · 17/month
Shared By: rhyang on Dec 21, 2011
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Pitch 1 (160', 5.7): surmount the roof and head up a liebacky thing to a bolted anchor. Pro is a little sparse and there are some hollow-sounding flakes -- be careful.

Pitch 2 (100', 5.9): sustained right-leaning finger crack with great pro, to bolted anchor with rap rings. I have read that this pitch can be wet sometimes, but we did it during a prolonged dry spell.

Location

Turn right at the bottom of the descent trail and traverse below the Hippo Wall (bolted slab routes). At the end of this slab will be a left-hand descent to routes such as the Tollhouse Traverse.

Instead, go straight and continue traversing along a climber's trail below the face, passing the Turret and Friday the 13th. The climber's trail should peter out at a tree, just below a roof. The route starts below the left side of the roof.

Descent options:
1. Rappel with either two 60m ropes or conceivably one 70m. The first rappel should get you to a bolted anchor with rings, which is a belay on Leapin' Lichen (5.10a R/X). Second rappel was ~120', so it might be a bit short with a 70m but probably doable.

2. Continue up some third-fourth class slab to Cap Rock, and either (a) climb Cuticle Corner (5.7), a short finger crack, to another bolted anchor, or (b) traverse right around the base of Cap Rock to where you can pick up a trail. Walk off after either option.

Protection

Set of nuts, cams from 0.5 to 2.5 inch, maybe some extras in finger sizes.

Photos

Ryan C
 
Ryan C  
 
Well protected--not PG at all, especially by Tollhouse standards. Pitch 1 was actually more enjoyable because pitch 2 crack was full of dirt and foliage; I ended up laybacking or slab climbing the sections that were too impacted to get finger locks straight in. Pitch 2 is also extremely short--a few moves and its over, so even if it was cleaned, it just doesn't seem worth the effort of doing the climb. Nov 13, 2017
Aaron Slaven
Fresno, CA
  5.9
Aaron Slaven   Fresno, CA
  5.9
Definitely one of the better routes at the house. But I second the comment about this be slick after rain. Nov 20, 2015
Matt Michael
Oceanside, CA
Matt Michael   Oceanside, CA
Did this right after a rain storm - I don't recommend this at all. You can hear the water trickling down the crack! Took a good fall onto a red c3 after my foot slicked off of the water drenched fface to the right of the crack. A must do if it's dry! I'll be back after it hasn't rained for a while. Mar 3, 2015
camtron Summers
Huntington Beach, Ca
 
camtron Summers   Huntington Beach, Ca
 
I cleaned it up a little march 15, 2013. Mar 17, 2013
Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
 
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
 
I hardly believed, looking up at the base, that the first pitch was what I saw. The rock is really scary and the cracks are really dirty. It's whatever though. I guess just don't do it if you're not into that kind of thing. The climbing is kind of fun. When you get to the first ledge (Budweiser) , keep going to get to the anchor.

The second pitch is, as advertised, great. I'd recommend rapping in if you want to do it. Rap (or walk down scary 3rd slab) right below the cuticle corner (which is to the right of the obvious platinum plus) to the anchors on top of the finger crack, and then rap down to tr or lead. 4 stars for it even though it's pretty short. It's also moss filled at the bottom so I face climbed up a bit and then stepped in where it was cleaner Feb 18, 2013

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