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Routes in Cap Rocks

Cuticle Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dream Analysis TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hang Left TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hangout, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Platinum Plus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pop Quiz T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Roof Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Step Left TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Uncorner, The TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Wide Chimney TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c V-easy 3
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Mark Haymond, Mike Brennan 1972
Page Views: 1,540 total · 10/month
Shared By: Wade Griffith on Apr 10, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This climb is a must do at Tollhouse. The climbing follows the right side of a giant detached flake on the Tollhouse caprock. It goes from thin to great hands till you gain the top of the flake. From here a 5.8 face move is made to top out on the caprock.

Location

Approach by walking up to the top of Tollhouse Rock then looking over the edge to see the prow of the caprock. The prow has a single crack that runs through it angling down either side of the edge. The right side crack is Platinum Plus (5.8) while the crack around the left side of the prow is Strawberry Jam (5.10), both finish on the same 5.8 face moves to the top.

Protection

gear to 3"

Photos

Tim Camuti
Placerville, CA
 
Tim Camuti   Placerville, CA
 
Fantastic TR with tricky exit for short people. Fun puzzle route.

TR bolts are best accessed with an anchored handline or even on belay from the flat part os the cap rocks. The edge that the TR runs over is a little sharp and merits watching. Strawberry Jam off the same anchor is very fun and of a different nature. Dec 1, 2013
Phillip Lyons
Metaline Falls, WA
  5.9
Phillip Lyons   Metaline Falls, WA
  5.9
Great, short route. As Tim said, the mantle at the top is a bit tricky on your first go round. I would rate that move as a 5.9 Jun 6, 2014
Andrew Davies
San Francisco, CA
  5.9
Andrew Davies   San Francisco, CA
  5.9
Just did this climb yesterday. I also agree that the face move feels like a 5.9, especially if you're shorter and can't quite reach some of the more helpful features. Luckily isn't too scary since you're right on top of a bomb proof bolt :) Apr 17, 2017
Rob L
  5.9-
Rob L  
  5.9-
As others have said super fun short route with great exposure and a tricky move at the top. Can be top-roped from a hanging belay at the 2 bolt anchor on the slab directly above the cruxy mantle move.

Would be 4 stars if it were a little longer! May 15, 2017

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