Avg: 3.2 from 12 votes
Routes in Tollhouse Rock
|Art Baker Memorial T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|At Your Leisure S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Balls T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Beginner's Delight T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Cuticle Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Desperado T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Dream Analysis TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Elephant Walk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Free and Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Friday the 13th T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Hang Left TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Hangout, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Munge Master T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Nuts and Bolts T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Old Fart's Edge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Platinum Plus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Pop Quiz T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Shining Path T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Silly Wizard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Step Left TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Sunset Strip S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Think Nothing Of It T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Tollhouse Traverse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|True Grip T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Uncorner, The TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Wandering Taoist T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Wish Sandwich T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Bruce Watts, Glen McHam, Mark Haymond, Dwight Kroll, Bill Hepler 2011|
|Page Views:||3,077 total, 44/month|
|Shared By:||J. Albers on Feb 10, 2012|
|Admins:||M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionThis is very nice addition to Tollhouse with engaging, well-protected climbing. The crux involves enjoyable and steep (by Tollhouse standards) edging on nice reddish colored patina. Because this route is so new, there are still some loose patina edges that will eventually break off and thus a bit of care does need to be exercised when choosing what to stand on. Nevertheless, I have given this route 4 stars because I think that in a few seasons, this route will clean up nicely and warrant the given star grade.
The continuity of the pitches on this climb warrant a bit of comment and I welcome comments by anyone who has additional information. The initial two pitches of this climb are obviously independent and new; this is obvious because the bolts are brand new and the bolt spacing is quite generous (i.e. very well-protected). However, the second pitch ends at the second pitch anchor of Wandering Taoist. At this point, the character of the bolting changes quite substantially. The climbing becomes fairly runout and the age of the bolts seems to indicate that the third pitch predates the initial pitches by quite some time. My guess is that the third pitch was originally an extension of Wandering Taoist; however, the information that I have is written by one of the FA's and thus I have entered the route according to the FA's account (for more information see 'A Climbers Guide to Tollhouse Rock' by Kroll and Slater http://maximuspress.com/shop/proddetail.php?prod=CGTR ).
Pitch One (130 feet; 5.10b, 7 bolts):
Begin by climbing the initial right-facing corner of Elephant Walk (this is really a 15 foot pillar leaning against the wall) and mantle the pillar to the left; some folks may want a medium sized cam to protect this (around a 0.5 Camalot or so). Next spot the first bolt about 6 feet up from the top-center of the pillar. Continue face climbing up past 4 bolts (crux). After clipping a total of 7 bolts, begin trending up and left to the two bolt anchor.
Pitch Two (140 feet; 5.7; 8 bolts)
After the thin edging of the first pitch, this pitch will feel like gravy!! Trend gently up and right on well featured rock; the climbing on this pitch is exceptionally fun and the bolts are very reasonably spaced. After 4-5 bolts, begin trending back up and left passing the remaining bolts to a ledge and a bolted anchor (this is anchor is also the top of the second pitch of Wandering Taoist and Elephant Walk).
Pitch 3 (140; 5.10a; 5 bolts):
The character of the route changes substantially at this point. Leave the belay and climb straight up 20-25 to clip the first bolt. Follow the bolt line as it trends up and left to a bolted belay station.
Variation: For those folks who want to climb the initial, well-protected pitches but avoid the runout third pitch, you can merge onto the final pitches of Elephant Walk instead of continuing up the proper third pitch.
Pitch 4 (200 feet):
Finish on either Tollhouse Traverse (gear needed) or Elephant Walk.