Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Jerry Polasky, Mark Haymond, Mike Brennan, 1977|
|Page Views:||176 total · 27/month|
|Shared By:||Ryan C on Nov 13, 2017|
|Admins:||M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
One of the best routes at Tollhouse--would be 4-star classic if it got a little more traffic. Route starts on Upper Traverse's first pitch (5.6)--work your way up the chimney/gully (you may chose not to rope up yet if comfortable here); once you arrive at a tree with 2 small flat spots to stand and rope up, to your right you should see a roof and ledge system/ramp up a giant flake. Climb to the top of the flake, arriving at a large ledge with long anchor chains--this is the true start of Desperado (straight up) and United Express (5.10c 3-star, up and right). Clip 2 bolts, pull a small roof with a tenuous mantle (crux--can be protected with a small cam under roof), climb easy runout to another bolt, then straight up to a small ledge and anchor bolts. Pitch 2 heads up and left, following a groove/crack that takes cams in many places and has some bolts to clip as well. When the crack turns into a crescent-moon-shaped feature, climb face/slab to its right, straight up (somewhat runout here). Arrive at anchor underneath cap rocks. Climb up cap rocks or walk off left.
Upper Traverse Area
Pro from thin to 1", plus 5 quickdraws and several shoulder-length slings. Runouts would likely make the route PG by many people's standards, but is typical of Tollhouse and the guidebook did not give it a PG rating.
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