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Routes in Tollhouse Rock

Art Baker Memorial T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
At Your Leisure S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Balls T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Beginner's Delight T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cuticle Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Desperado T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dream Analysis TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elephant Walk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Free and Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Friday the 13th T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hang Left TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hangout, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Munge Master T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nuts and Bolts T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Fart's Edge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Platinum Plus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pop Quiz T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shining Path T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Silly Wizard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Step Left TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sunset Strip S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Think Nothing Of It T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tollhouse Traverse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
True Grip T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Uncorner, The TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Wandering Taoist T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wish Sandwich T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jerry Polasky, Mark Haymond, Mike Brennan, 1977
Page Views: 176 total · 27/month
Shared By: Ryan C on Nov 13, 2017
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Edit]

One of the best routes at Tollhouse--would be 4-star classic if it got a little more traffic. Route starts on Upper Traverse's first pitch (5.6)--work your way up the chimney/gully (you may chose not to rope up yet if comfortable here); once you arrive at a tree with 2 small flat spots to stand and rope up, to your right you should see a roof and ledge system/ramp up a giant flake. Climb to the top of the flake, arriving at a large ledge with long anchor chains--this is the true start of Desperado (straight up) and United Express (5.10c 3-star, up and right). Clip 2 bolts, pull a small roof with a tenuous mantle (crux--can be protected with a small cam under roof), climb easy runout to another bolt, then straight up to a small ledge and anchor bolts. Pitch 2 heads up and left, following a groove/crack that takes cams in many places and has some bolts to clip as well. When the crack turns into a crescent-moon-shaped feature, climb face/slab to its right, straight up (somewhat runout here). Arrive at anchor underneath cap rocks. Climb up cap rocks or walk off left.

Location [Edit]

Upper Traverse Area

Protection [Edit]

Pro from thin to 1", plus 5 quickdraws and several shoulder-length slings. Runouts would likely make the route PG by many people's standards, but is typical of Tollhouse and the guidebook did not give it a PG rating.

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