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Routes in Main Wall

Art Baker Memorial T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
At Your Leisure S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Balls T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Beginner's Delight T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Desperado T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elephant Walk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Free and Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Friday the 13th T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Munge Master T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nuts and Bolts T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Fart's Edge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shining Path T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Silly Wizard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sunset Strip S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Think Nothing Of It T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tollhouse Traverse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
True Grip T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Wandering Taoist T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wish Sandwich T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jerry Polasky, Mark Haymond, Mike Brennan, 1977
Page Views: 216 total · 23/month
Shared By: Ryan Cox on Nov 13, 2017
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

One of the best routes at Tollhouse--would be 4-star classic if it got a little more traffic. Route starts on Upper Traverse's first pitch (5.6)--work your way up the chimney/gully (you may chose not to rope up yet if comfortable here); once you arrive at a tree with 2 small flat spots to stand and rope up, to your right you should see a roof and ledge system/ramp up a giant flake. Climb to the top of the flake, arriving at a large ledge with long anchor chains--this is the true start of Desperado (straight up) and United Express (5.10c 3-star, up and right). Clip 2 bolts, pull a small roof with a tenuous mantle (crux--can be protected with a small cam under roof), climb easy runout to another bolt, then straight up to a small ledge and anchor bolts. Pitch 2 heads up and left, following a groove/crack that takes cams in many places and has some bolts to clip as well. When the crack turns into a crescent-moon-shaped feature, climb face/slab to its right, straight up (somewhat runout here). Arrive at anchor underneath cap rocks. Climb up cap rocks or walk off left.

Location

Upper Traverse Area

Protection

Pro from thin to 1", plus 5 quickdraws and several shoulder-length slings. Runouts would likely make the route PG by many people's standards, but is typical of Tollhouse and the guidebook did not give it a PG rating.

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