Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Jerry Polasky, Mark Haymond, Mike Brennan, 1977|
|Page Views:||88 total · 27/month|
|Shared By:||Ryan C on Nov 13, 2017|
|Admins:||M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionOne of the best routes at Tollhouse--would be 4-star classic if it got a little more traffic. Route starts on Upper Traverse's first pitch (5.6)--work your way up the chimney/gully (you may chose not to rope up yet if comfortable here); once you arrive at a tree with 2 small flat spots to stand and rope up, to your right you should see a roof and ledge system/ramp up a giant flake. Climb to the top of the flake, arriving at a large ledge with long anchor chains--this is the true start of Desperado (straight up) and United Express (5.10c 3-star, up and right). Clip 2 bolts, pull a small roof with a tenuous mantle (crux--can be protected with a small cam under roof), climb easy runout to another bolt, then straight up to a small ledge and anchor bolts. Pitch 2 heads up and left, following a groove/crack that takes cams in many places and has some bolts to clip as well. When the crack turns into a crescent-moon-shaped feature, climb face/slab to its right, straight up (somewhat runout here). Arrive at anchor underneath cap rocks. Climb up cap rocks or walk off left.
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