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Routes in Tollhouse Rock

Art Baker Memorial T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
At Your Leisure S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Balls T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Beginner's Delight T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cuticle Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Desperado T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dream Analysis TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elephant Walk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Free and Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Friday the 13th T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hang Left TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hangout, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Munge Master T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nuts and Bolts T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Fart's Edge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Platinum Plus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pop Quiz T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shining Path T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Silly Wizard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Step Left TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sunset Strip S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Think Nothing Of It T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tollhouse Traverse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
True Grip T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Uncorner, The TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Wandering Taoist T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wish Sandwich T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Cam Donahoo, Kenny Rose, Jeremy Ross
Page Views: 683 total, 6/month
Shared By: Jeremy R on Nov 26, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start in the hand crack to the left of "Free and Easy" and climb to a ledge (about 20ft). Continue up the slab and clip the bolts. A Two-bolt belay is above, near the "headwall" Veer right at the "headwall" and belay at the top of the first pitch of "Free and Easy". Rap the gully or continue up "Free and Easy"

Location

Left of Free and Easy, right of 38th Parallel. Rap the gully at the top of the pitch, or continue up free and easy. In my mind its a crime not to continue up.

Protection

0.5" to 3"( pro to 3" only if continuing up Free and Easy

Photos

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I've fixed the descriptions of the route to reflect your comments better. When we did it we simulclimbed (which I forgot all about).

Anyway, one of the FAists added a two bolt belay to make this now a two pitch climb. I have not climbed this version of the climb...please let me kn ow if I need to edit anything else! Apr 27, 2016
FrankPS
Atascadero, CA
FrankPS   Atascadero, CA
Per J. Alber's comments above, I added similar comments to the "Free and Easy" page. I started below the hand crack for the first pitch of F&E with a 60m rope. Had to simul about 20 feet to the anchor. A 70 would have done the trick for P1 of F&E. Haven't done this route, though. Nov 2, 2013
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.8
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.8
I have been meaning to post about the length of the first pitch since I did this a year or so ago. We started all the way at the bottom of the buttress (which seemed like the obvious place to begin) and I had to simul-climb 15-20 feet so that my partner could hit the anchor (with a 70 meter rope). Without starting up and right a ways, I don't know how this could possibly be done without a 70m rope. Oct 27, 2013