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Routes in Tollhouse Rock

Art Baker Memorial T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
At Your Leisure S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Balls T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Beginner's Delight T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cuticle Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Desperado T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dream Analysis TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elephant Walk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Free and Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Friday the 13th T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hang Left TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hangout, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Munge Master T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nuts and Bolts T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Fart's Edge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Platinum Plus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pop Quiz T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shining Path T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Silly Wizard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Step Left TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sunset Strip S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Think Nothing Of It T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tollhouse Traverse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
True Grip T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Uncorner, The TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Wandering Taoist T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wish Sandwich T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 122 total, 6/month
Shared By: euthyphro on Feb 15, 2016
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A decent alternative if nearby routes are occupied or if one wants to practice run out slab on easy terrain.


Twenty-five feet of 5.6-7 climbing up a right-facing corner with a good crack brings you to the start of the slab with a bolt a few feet up and to the left of the termination of the crack.

A good stance with that bolt at your waist brings you to the route's crux, a few 5.8 slab moves up and right of the first bolt heading to good holds and another bolt. The only disconcerting aspect of this section is the nature of the initial bolt, which is well rusted and looked to be an older button head type. A cam in the crack a body length below would catch you if the bolt failed, but the fall would be painful.

The climbing eases up after the 2nd bolt and becomes run out as you take a long, right trending seam with good holds up for 30-40 feet. It is possible to clip another bolt right before the belay, which is located almost equally between Elephant Walk's anchor and an anchor to climber's right.

Location

Twenty feet climber's left of Elephant Walk. The short, right-facing corner arches up from a ledge with a tree at its base.

It is easier to start from the bottom of the slab right of Wandering Taoist than to begin 20 feet up at the tree on. A short crack brings you directly beneath the tree and up right to the corner.

Protection

Small cams for the crack (0.75 and below) and 2-3 draws for the slab. The right trending seam MAY take some micro-wires, but I was unable to place any and I would not count on doing so. It is possible to head right to the Elephant Walk belay, or left to a 3 bolt belay that (as of 2/2016) lacked rap rings. A 60 meter rope will bring you to the tree and ledge where Elephant Walk begins and an easy walk off.

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