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Routes in Main Wall
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At Your Leisure S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Balls T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Beginner's Delight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Beginner's Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Desperado T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Direct, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Don't Laugh S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Elephant Walk T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Falling Star T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Free and Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Free and Easy Continuation T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hang 'Em High T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Headline S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Headwall, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Marvin's Mantle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Mi Vida Loca T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Munge Master T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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New Breed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Nuts and Bolts T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Old Fart's Edge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rockin the House S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Shining Path T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Silly Wizard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Sunset Strip S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Swallow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Think Nothing Of It T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tollhouse Traverse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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True Grip T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Upper Traverse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Wandering Taoist T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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White Hawk T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wish Sandwich T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 3 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 37.02938, -119.38526 |
| FA: | Paul Martzen, December 1983 |
| Page Views: | 200 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Paul Martzen on Nov 1, 2023 |
| Admins: | Cory B, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
1st pitch: Climb the first 30 feet or more of the Headwall Route, (5.10) clipping several bolts, before reaching bigger holds and a rightward leaning groove. There are spots for small to medium trad placements. At some small roofs, either head straight up, (more difficult) or pass them on the right and traverse back to the left above. Clip two or three bolts on fairly easy ground, before reaching a hanging bolted belay, with only a small sloping ledge.
2nd Pitch: Continue on fairly easy ground past 3 bolts to the arch. A new bolt protects the move over the arch. From a stance above the arch clip a new bolt, and ignore the old one. Follow the bolts pretty much straight up. This section of wall is fairly steep and many of the footholds are small bulges for friction, with few positive holds for hands (5.10). Near the belay ledge the angle eases and the holds get better. The belay is two bolts on a large ledge that slopes up to the left.
3rd Pitch: Either climb straight up the short headwall at the ledge or climb off the left end of the ledge. The hardest climbing is just leaving the belay ledge. At this time (Nov 2023) there are no bolts or trad placements between this belay and where Free and Easy goes over a small roof on its 3rd pitch.
Location
Swallow is in between Balls and Headwall, and is the same length as both. Swallow climbs through the center of the obvious long arch 2 pitches up the wall. Balls climbs near the left edge of the arch, while Headwall climbs a weakness on the right side. There is also a small weakness in the center of the arch, which Swallow uses.
Because it was put up with a 165 foot rope, there are only 2 pitches before it rejoins the Headwall belay on a nice ledge. During the first ascent, it seemed easy enough that few bolts were installed and it was extremely run out. Every subsequent ascent has shown the error of that thinking. A friend was persuaded to add bolts on the crux section. Subsequent ascents indicated that more bolts were needed to reduce cussing at the first ascentionist, particularly by the first ascentionist.
Here in 2023, enough bolts have been added to the route to make it relatively safe.
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