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Free and Easy Continuation
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in Main Wall
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At Your Leisure S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Balls T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Beginner's Delight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Beginner's Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Desperado T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Direct, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Don't Laugh S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Elephant Walk T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Falling Star T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Free and Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Free and Easy Continuation T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hang 'Em High T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Headline S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Headwall, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Marvin's Mantle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Mi Vida Loca T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Munge Master T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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New Breed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Nuts and Bolts T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Old Fart's Edge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rockin the House S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Shining Path T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Silly Wizard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Sunset Strip S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Swallow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Think Nothing Of It T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tollhouse Traverse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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True Grip T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Upper Traverse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Wandering Taoist T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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White Hawk T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wish Sandwich T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Oct 2014, bolted Oct 2015 |
| Page Views: | 161 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Paul Martzen on Oct 31, 2023 |
| Admins: | Cory B, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
From the double bolt belay atop Free and Easy, Headwall, Balls, etc, walk north on the big ledge, 20 or 30 feet until you are below a big bulge with a wide crack on the right side and a dirty groove leading up and to the right. Climb past two bolts (5.6?) to the bulge. Now choose one of three variations.
The center variation is very easy. Climb the wide crack on the right side of the bulge, then walk up the 4th class ramps above to the top.
The left variation is as short, but more interesting. Traverse to the left around the bulge past a bolt, then climb on top of the bulge. Step onto the 4th class ramps and ascend to the top.
The right variation is longer. Climb the right leading groove past one bolt. There are cracks that take small to medium cams and such. At a second bolt, mantle out onto the ramp. Then 4th class to the top. The mantle move may give pause, but the bolt is above you.
At the top, there are several options for belay anchors. A smallish bay tree/bush, a single 3/8 bolt and a fist crack are all close to each other.
This route was top roped in October 2014 during the Tollhouse Face-Off. It was bolted in October of 2015. The center variation at least has reportedly been climbed previously by Eric McGee and possibly others.
Location
This pitch starts at the very large ledge where Free & Easy ends. Headwall, Balls and several other routes also end on this ledge. The pitch leads to the very north west end of the cap rocks, joining the class 4 exit about halfway up. It is intended as a fun alternative to the 4th class hike out from this ledge, but it is also a much easier alternative to the other 3 routes leading above this ledge.
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