Type: Trad, Sport, 200 ft (61 m)
FA: Paul Martzen and Dwight Kroll 1981
Page Views: 1,399 total · 9/month
Shared By: J. Albers on Feb 9, 2012
Admins: Cory B, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

This route is mostly used as a way to finish many of the multipitch routes that converge below the Cap Rocks (e.g. Balls and the Upper Traverse end near here). This is an okay route that is a nice way to finish the longer routes instead of finishing on the 4th class territory to the left. The climbing is reasonably fun on decent quality rock.

From the anchor at the nice ledge (see topo), there are 3 semi-independent bolted lines. The left most route is 5.10b (3 bolts), the middle route (Munge Master) is 5.9, and the right-most route is 5.9 (six bolts).

Climb up from the belay taking the center bolt line, clipping 4 bolts along the way. After the last bolt, either climb up and left or clip the last bolt of the route to the right and then climb up and left.

Exit up and through the Cap Rocks either straight up or up and left. Exiting straight up requires some moderate fifth class climbing; exiting around to the left is easy 5th to 4th class. Either way, many will want a few pieces of gear for the finish and potentially for building an anchor.

Location Suggest change

Below the left side of the Cap Rocks; see topo for details.

Protection Suggest change

4-6 draws for bolts and gear if you have placed some. If you want to take gear, bring a single set of cams from 0.5"-2".