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Routes in Main Wall

Art Baker Memorial T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
At Your Leisure S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Balls T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Beginner's Delight T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Desperado T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elephant Walk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Free and Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Friday the 13th T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hang 'Em High T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Headwall, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Marvin's Mantle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Munge Master T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nuts and Bolts T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Fart's Edge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shining Path T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Silly Wizard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sunset Strip S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Think Nothing Of It T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tollhouse Traverse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
True Grip T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Wandering Taoist T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wish Sandwich T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, Sport, 200 ft
FA: Paul Martzen and Dwight Kroll 1981
Page Views: 597 total · 7/month
Shared By: J. Albers on Feb 9, 2012
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is mostly used as a way to finish many of the multipitch routes that converge below the Cap Rocks (e.g. Balls and the Upper Traverse end near here). This is an okay route that is a nice way to finish the longer routes instead of finishing on the 4th class territory to the left. The climbing is reasonably fun on decent quality rock.

From the anchor at the nice ledge (see topo), there are 3 semi-independent bolted lines. The left most route is 5.10b (3 bolts), the middle route (Munge Master) is 5.9, and the right-most route is 5.9 (six bolts).

Climb up from the belay taking the center bolt line, clipping 4 bolts along the way. After the last bolt, either climb up and left or clip the last bolt of the route to the right and then climb up and left.

Exit up and through the Cap Rocks either straight up or up and left. Exiting straight up requires some moderate fifth class climbing; exiting around to the left is easy 5th to 4th class. Either way, many will want a few pieces of gear for the finish and potentially for building an anchor.

Location

Below the left side of the Cap Rocks; see topo for details.

Protection

4-6 draws for bolts and gear if you have placed some. If you want to take gear, bring a single set of cams from 0.5"-2".

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