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Routes in Main Wall

Art Baker Memorial T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
At Your Leisure S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Balls T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Beginner's Delight T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Desperado T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elephant Walk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Free and Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Friday the 13th T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hang 'Em High T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Headwall, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Marvin's Mantle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Munge Master T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nuts and Bolts T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Fart's Edge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shining Path T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Silly Wizard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sunset Strip S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Think Nothing Of It T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tollhouse Traverse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
True Grip T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Wandering Taoist T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wish Sandwich T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 600 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Barry Chambers, Kenny Rose, Cam Donahoo, Oct 2003
Page Views: 1,023 total · 8/month
Shared By: Dave Daly on Oct 4, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is located 75 yard to the right of the 'Tollhouse Traverse' and 20 feet right of the 38th Parallel. Locate a left facing dihedral block above the climbers trail that skirts the bottom of Tollhouse.

Pitch 1 (.10b) goes up a small seam that peters out onto a steep, open slab. Two bolts protect some balancy friction moves before reaching a slanting small ledge that angles up and right. This ever thinning ledge becomes a balance act for feet as one shimmies up to a short steep face. The ledge contains a crack (awkward protection at the feet.....thin pro, #3 nut and #00 Metolius TCU). At the ledges end, commit to the face above on small flakes and rounded features. Once above the ledge, climb the slab above, passing 4 more bolts to a 2-bolt belay.

Pitch 2 (5.8) goes up 10' and then traverses out right and to a subtle corner and up holds along its outside right edge. Pass 2 bolts before getting up into open slab. Pass 2 more bolts while making 5.8 friction moves (a little dirty with lichen but will clean up nicely with more traffic). Continue above, passing one more bolt, to easier terrain on runout 5.6 slab to a 2 bolt anchor (joins with the 'Upper Traverse').

Pitch 3 (5.6) follows a ramp that heads up and left for 60' then crosses over an easy roof section (5.5) and scampers up knobs and edges. Follow a wandering crack (pro to 2") up to 2 bolt anchor. At this point, one can unrope and climb the remaining 4th pitch on 3rd and 4th class rock to the top or go directly above the bolts and climb a short pitch of 'old skool' 5.9 slab for 30' before it eases up to 4th class and exits left to summit.

Protection

-Draws
-Slings
-Pro: thin to 2"

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