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Routes in Tollhouse Rock

Art Baker Memorial T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
At Your Leisure S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Balls T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Beginner's Delight T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cuticle Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Desperado T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dream Analysis TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elephant Walk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Free and Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Friday the 13th T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hang Left TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hangout, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Munge Master T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nuts and Bolts T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Fart's Edge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Platinum Plus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pop Quiz T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shining Path T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Silly Wizard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Step Left TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sunset Strip S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Think Nothing Of It T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tollhouse Traverse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
True Grip T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Uncorner, The TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Wandering Taoist T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wish Sandwich T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bruce Hildenbrand and Mike Clark, February 1978
Page Views: 261 total, 4/month
Shared By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Feb 16, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route has two cruxes of equal difficulty, but very different protection. The pitch one crux, an undercling left under a small overlap, takes some marginal nuts. The second crux, a traverse right out of Tollhouse Traverse, is well protected with several bolts.

Pitch 1 climbs straight up to a small overlap. Undercling left(5.10a) to a ledge with a bolt. Climb straight up to a short lieback over a bulge and belay on a huge ledge.

Pitch 2 climbs straight up the face(5.6-5.7) passing one bolt about 75' up. Belay on small footholds just below a bolt on the right wall of Tollhouse Traverse.

Pitch 3 clips the bolt and traverse right(5.10a) to a second bolt and then up and right to join Marvin's Mantel.

Location

This route starts about 75-100' left of the start of Tollhouse Traverse.

Protection

Gear required on pitch 1(undercling - small stoppers; lieback - 2"; belay - 0.75"-1"); for the belay on pitch 2 (1/2" to 1"). The four bolts on this climb have been replaced with new, stainless steel, 5-piece Powers bolts. Thanks to the ASCA(www.safeclimbing.org) for providing the hardware.

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