Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bruce Hildenbrand and Mike Clark, February 1978
Page Views: 290 total · 4/month
Shared By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Feb 16, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route has two cruxes of equal difficulty, but very different protection. The pitch one crux, an undercling left under a small overlap, takes some marginal nuts. The second crux, a traverse right out of Tollhouse Traverse, is well protected with several bolts.

Pitch 1 climbs straight up to a small overlap. Undercling left(5.10a) to a ledge with a bolt. Climb straight up to a short lieback over a bulge and belay on a huge ledge(gear).

Pitch 2 climbs straight up the face(5.6-5.7) passing one bolt about 75' up. Belay on small footholds just below a bolt on the right wall of Tollhouse Traverse.

Pitch 3 clips the bolt and traverse right(5.10a) to a second bolt and then up and right to join Marvin's Mantel.

Location

This route starts about 75-100' left of the start of Tollhouse Traverse.

Protection

Gear required on pitch 1(undercling - small stoppers; lieback - 2"; belay - 0.75"-1"); for the belay on pitch 2 (1/2" to 1"). The four bolts on this climb have been replaced with new, stainless steel, 5-piece Powers bolts. Thanks to the ASCA(www.safeclimbing.org) for providing the hardware.

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