Type: Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Gene Drake, Mike Brennan, Dave Schroder, Goodsen, Ketcher March 1971
Page Views: 152 total · 12/month
Shared By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Apr 7, 2020
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

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Description

This was the first route to attack the main wall at Tollhouse Rock.  The first few bolts  were put in ground up, but frayed nerves led to a change in strategy for the rest of the climb.  A rope was placed down the route and when it was deemed necessary to place a bolt the leader attached himself to the rope. Even with the revised bolting ethics be prepared for a moderate distance between bolts.

The 5.8 way climbs up through some pesky bushes to gain a small right facing dihedral.  About 1/2 way up this dihedral(place gear) traverse up and right 25 ' to a bolt.  Continue straight up past three bolts to a double bolt belay on a ledge.  The next pitch traverses left(the route Direct Current goes straight up) to a bolt then up past 4 more bolts to a double bolt belay.

The third pitch climbs up past 2-3 bolts to a large ledge with a double bolt anchor up at the right edge.  4th class and lower 5th class climbing leads to the top.

There is a two-bolt direct start(5.10aR) just left of the bushy start.  Some have use a 'tree branch tie off" to supplement the pro between the two widely spaced bolts.

Location

This route starts about 25 feet right of Tollhouse traverse.  Locate a small right facing book protected at the bottom by some pesky bushes.   Two bolts denoting the direct start to the direct are a few feet to the left.

Protection

Mostly bolts, but gear to two inches should be carried.

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