Type: Trad, Sport, 4 pitches
FA: Brennan, Bill Sorensen '69, FFA: Brennan, Fielden, Shervem '73
Page Views: 2,326 total · 36/month
Shared By: Nathan W. on Oct 7, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Description

A highly recommended start to the main crack. Hands down, the best of the three cracks! The crux is the thin left-leaning crack off the deck. It's mostly tips for about ten feet with pockets along the way for solid jams. The thin crack meets up with the right-leaning crack (Elephant Walk 5.7) and turns to solid hands. The first pitch can be top-roped. Three-bolt rap anchor at the top.(60 meter rope and some down-climbing just makes it, 70 meter works fine)

Continue up the face and follow the bolt line the rest of the way up. Moderate and runout face climbing, typical of Tollhouse, the rest of the way up(5.7 or less)

The first pitch is, IMO, one of Tollhouse Rock's best lines, stellar/ secure jamming for 100' at such a moderate grade makes for an awesome climb. A must-do for anyone climbing at Tollhouse.

Location

The route starts to the left of a right-facing corner (Beginner's Right 5.7)a few hundred feet left of Tollhouse Traverse and about 25 feet right of Elephant Walk. At the base of the crack is a tree with a block leaning on it, start around here.

Protection

Nuts to 3"
Doubles of thin pro for the start
1 70 Meter rope preferred if you're only doing the first pitch, 60 meter is fine if you're doing the entire climb
Bolted Anchors

Photos

Cory Brooks
Fresno, CA
 
Cory Brooks   Fresno, CA
 
So good. Best way to start Elephant Walk. Protects well with small nuts and a couple of small cams. Dec 6, 2015
Muscrat

  5.9
Muscrat    
  5.9
Ok, i understand that Tollhouse is 'old school' grades, but really, 5.8? The same week i climbed this i climbed in the valley. I have yet to find a valley 5.9 (other than some Harding Chimneys i know) that is harder than this.
OK, i have fat fingers, but 5.8? Thin!
And good fun, btw. protects well. Mar 21, 2017