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Routes in Tollhouse Rock

Art Baker Memorial T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
At Your Leisure S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Balls T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Beginner's Delight T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cuticle Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Desperado T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dream Analysis TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elephant Walk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Free and Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Friday the 13th T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hang Left TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hangout, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Munge Master T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nuts and Bolts T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Fart's Edge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Platinum Plus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pop Quiz T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shining Path T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Silly Wizard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Step Left TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sunset Strip S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Think Nothing Of It T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tollhouse Traverse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
True Grip T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Uncorner, The TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Wandering Taoist T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wish Sandwich T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 4 pitches
FA: Brennan, Bill Sorensen '69, FFA: Brennan, Fielden, Shervem '73
Page Views: 1,640 total, 32/month
Shared By: Nathan W. on Oct 7, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

A highly recommended start to the main crack. Hands down, the best of the three cracks! The crux is the thin left-leaning crack off the deck. It's mostly tips for about ten feet with pockets along the way for solid jams. The thin crack meets up with the right-leaning crack (Elephant Walk 5.7) and turns to solid hands. The first pitch can be top-roped. Three-bolt rap anchor at the top.(60 meter rope and some down-climbing just makes it, 70 meter works fine)

Continue up the face and follow the bolt line the rest of the way up. Moderate and runout face climbing, typical of Tollhouse, the rest of the way up(5.7 or less)

The first pitch is, IMO, one of Tollhouse Rock's best lines, stellar/ secure jamming for 100' at such a moderate grade makes for an awesome climb. A must-do for anyone climbing at Tollhouse.

Location

The route starts to the left of a right-facing corner (Beginner's Right 5.7)a few hundred feet left of Tollhouse Traverse and about 25 feet right of Elephant Walk. At the base of the crack is a tree with a block leaning on it, start around here.

Protection

Nuts to 3"
Doubles of thin pro for the start
1 70 Meter rope preferred if you're only doing the first pitch, 60 meter is fine if you're doing the entire climb
Bolted Anchors

Photos

Muscrat

  5.9
Muscrat    
  5.9
Ok, i understand that Tollhouse is 'old school' grades, but really, 5.8? The same week i climbed this i climbed in the valley. I have yet to find a valley 5.9 (other than some Harding Chimneys i know) that is harder than this.
OK, i have fat fingers, but 5.8? Thin!
And good fun, btw. protects well. Mar 21, 2017
C Brooks
Fresno, CA
 
C Brooks   Fresno, CA
 
So good. Best way to start Elephant Walk. Protects well with small nuts and a couple of small cams. Dec 6, 2015