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Cruel Shoes 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 600'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 5,806
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Feb 11, 2007

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Following the 4th pitch

Description 

Cruel Shoes weaves a wandering path up the lower face of the Chief, conveniently ending at the base of the Split Pillar. An excellent route in its own right, it also provides a great, all-free way to access the Grand Wall. Expect amazing, consistent pitches of technical face climbing at the 5.10 level, good mixed pro, and immaculate rock. Enough can't be said about this awesome climb.

P1: Begin at the base of the Chief in the corner just right of Apron Strings. Ascend the corner (The Flake) via stemming and chimneying to a belay high up in the corner at a stance. 5.10b. Alternatively, climb the first pitch of Apron Strings (10b), a higher quality pitch up the face to the left of the corner to the same belay.

P2: Continue up the corner briefly before traversing right out onto the face and up a steep, bolted crux section. There is a long runout on this pitch on easy climbing. Continue on to a belay. 5.10d R.

P3: Traverse almost straight right for half a ropelength to the base of a right-facing, right-leaning corner system. The final moves around and into this corner are difficult for the grade (the key to keeping it 10b is to step down at the final bolt without being greedy and trying to clip it - once at the anchor reach back and clip it to protect your second), but the pitch is reasonably well-protected for both the leader and second. 5.10b.

P4: Ascend the sustained leaning corner to a point where one can exit out right and up to a belay at a stance. Sensibly linked into the next pitch. 5.10c.

P5: A committing move leads to a good ledge with a pin and bolt. From here continue up past a second bolt at 5.10+ (tough) and then left or from the first bolt head hard left and then up at 5.9. Both are somewhat run out in places. An excellent pitch. R.

P6: The final pitch climbs up and right via a very thin crescent-like corner. Eventually the route trends almost straight back left to the ledge at the base of the Split Pillar. This pitch is entirely bolted and well-protected. 5.10d (easier if you're tall).

Rap with two ropes or continue on.

Along with Fiddler on the Roof in Red Rocks, Nevada, Birds of Fire in Rocky Mountain National Park, and Stoner's Highway in Yosemite, Cruel Shoes rounds out a quartet of absolutely classic North American multipitch face climbs all checking in at around 5.10+.

Protection 

Light rack through a #1 Camalot (Apron Strings requires extra finger-sized gear)


Photos of Cruel Shoes Slideshow Add Photo
Looking across the traverse of P3.
BETA PHOTO: Looking across the traverse of P3.
Starting the traversing 3rd pitch
Starting the traversing 3rd pitch
Looking up the wall on the first 5.10d pitch
Looking up the wall on the first 5.10d pitch
The final moves on the last pitch that lead to the Split Pillar.
BETA PHOTO: The final moves on the last pitch that lead to the...
Wyatt starts the leaning corner of the 4th pitch
Wyatt starts the leaning corner of the 4th pitch
Safely across the 3rd pitch traverse
Safely across the 3rd pitch traverse
Following the 2nd pitch
Following the 2nd pitch
Stepping out onto the runnout 5th pitch. Thankfully it's only 5.9!
Stepping out onto the runnout 5th pitch. Thankfull...

Comments on Cruel Shoes Add Comment
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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Aug 19, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R

Wowzers... great climb! But you better put your dancing shoes on!

The first chimney/crack pitch is fun, and one set of cams and nuts worked out... though it didn't look promising at first. We placed a #2 and #3 camalot on this pitch, so I might recommend a full set of cams from TCUs to #3 camalot. The second pitch transition from the chimney to the slab climbing got my attention. The 10d crux on this pitch felt soft, provided you clip the bolt and step down a ways before comitting to the the moves. This pitch has fairly reasonable protection. The 10b traversing pitch is full value - for both leader and follower. As Josh mentions, it is reasonably well protected but that doesn't mean the traversing falls would be fun and this adds a bit of creep factor to the pitch. The final move on this pitch (literally right before the chains) felt fricken' hard to me and my partner. The 10c corner pitch was technical, but has pretty good protection between the bolts and occasional pieces of gear. We followed the guidebook and belayed at the bolted anchor slightly right of the crack. My partner and I both felt the next pitch was runout. It may be only 5.9, but there are plenty of places where a fall would result in injury. By far the most serious pitch of the route in our opinion. Scary moves up and left of the belay lead to the first bolt. We followed the guidebook and moved left and up into 5.8/5.9 terrain that is sparsely protected. A final bolt sees you to the anchor. The final crux pitch is very closely bolted and has great, technical movement up the steepening slab. I agree with the guidebook that the crux of this pitch is reachy.

The climb ends at the base of the Split Pillar... either continue on or double rope rap straight down via descent anchors (3 double rope raps to the ground).
By Evan Stevens
Jun 9, 2008

P. 5 the 5.9 part definitely has a bad fall potential, and I think warrants the R, you do NOT want to fall, you would hit a slab, but it is not that bad, the moves get easier as you get further out from your gear. Just a friendly heads up...
By blakeherrington
Apr 13, 2009

Pitch 1 is "The Flake" - mountainproject.com/v/internat...
By Monica Jones
From: CO
Jul 28, 2010

Pretty cool climb. Definitly had to get my game face on.
By Stu Ritchie
From: Denver
Aug 2, 2010

Don't be fooled by some of the vegetation in the photos, Cruel Shoes is truly a classic slab adventure!
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 17, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Classic slab climbing. This is the best way to do the full grand wall - spits you out right at the base of the split pillar allowing even more great climbing to top off the day.
By AJV
Aug 6, 2013

I don't really enjoy slab climbing, but this was a fun route. The 10b traverse is by far the hardest pitch. As mentioned previously the final move to the belay is extremely hard. We did cruel shoes to the grand to upper black dyke and besides Perry's layback, this was the only place either of us fell.
By Josh Janes
Aug 13, 2014

I climbed this again last week and updated my description. It is indeed R in two spots. The traverse pitch is easy if you skip the final bolt (still well-protected) and step down before moving over to the belay - I can see how it would feel like the crux if you get greedy and try to clip the final bolt before doing the move.
By Kevin Kent
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 29, 2014

I would suggest bringing a long sling or linking a few together to some pro you get high in the initial crack on P2 before starting the traverse. Excellent route!