Chris at the end of the route. (oversized picture...
Description
Follow directions to the main rock & hike up the short, steep obvious trail. Maybe 75' to the right of Staircase. This route is very obvious - sorry I'm not more specific (look at attached picture). This is a good climb to do while waiting for folks to clear off Staircase.
One pitch (80' or so) with a 2 bolt anchor / rap station. The start is a bit awkward and then a combo of lieback, stemming, and face moves brings you to the top. Not as many finger / hand jams as you'd think.
Very fun and a bit thoughtful for the grade - I plugged way more gear than I had anticipated.
There is a harder sport climb on the face of this 'hollow flake' that can easily be TR'd from the anchors...
The direct start to this is killer! Unprotected 5.7 lieback/undercling left, or 5.7 OW to the right! Both take good gear at the top of the OW. Use a long draw or sling to go left into the corner. Once in the corner, that's where the fun begins.
IMHO a 3 star route. A superb, clean, flake-crack and dihedral that is mostly face climbing. Grab a handfull of stoppers and prepare to have fun. Only one little move near the top of the dihedral prompts some contemplation. Starting off the angling flake to the left is much easier than the direct starts mentioned above but every bit as good.
Anyone have more information on the face climb that ascends the arete right of the flake? Name? Grade? Any good? Partner and I would like to climb it - it is a steep, attention-getting line on a rock that doesn't abound in steep lines. How is the next pitch that pulls up and over the roof from the top of hollow flake?
Great climb - maybe its just that I'm a wuss, but this sure seemed like 5.7 or possibly more to me. About 3/4 of the way up there is a nut that didn't want to come home with us - it is hard to see, but the #@#%$ thing is in there a few inches into the crack. Maybe I just did the "direct" start, but at more than one place the route had me doing some "contemplating". Very worth doing if you are in 11mile.
The 5.6 hollow flake starts to the left on the right angling flake 5.3, then enters the dihedral at it's half way point. The two direct starts are 5.7 and much funner. The bolted route on the arete is the first pitch to the Sprout route 5.11b. This is a very fun route with great moves. I think the first pitch is around .10c and the harder moves are at the top. You can also go right near the end and tackle the double cracks .10a?? They are really fun.
By Michael J Yarros From: Colorado Springs, CO Jun 23, 2004 rating: 5.6
Great route, I roped-soloed this today. It takes more stoppers than cams. I used #4-#l3 in stoppers, cams I used from blue alien to #3 in wild country sizes. This is a great route for learning to lead. As is the Stair-case. There are excellent stances for placing gear. Hexes are also good pieces to have. It get's a little thin in the upper part of the climb. But, it's mostly easy climbing. Lot's of fun!!
By Michael J Yarros From: Colorado Springs, CO Sep 10, 2006 rating: 5.6
We did the 2nd pitch that's right off the belay ledge of Hollow Flake. The pitch is at least 5.10c. Very nice pitch, 8-10 bolts, plus 2 for the anchors (can't remember). Very deceiving route, looks much easier from the belay ledge. But all the bolts are in the right spots.