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Nick on Centerpiece (Red Helmet). Upon lowering he...
This is one of the best routes on this cliff (my personal favorite at the moment). The line is consistently steep and pumpy, but if you get to know it well you can dial it in and avoid the pump.
You start up a steep wall with incut holds that are better than they look from the ground. You gain a ledge that's not as good as it looks. Move to the right a little here if this spot is wet. a few slopers lead to a pretty good rest. move back to the left and up good holds to the top. Careful foot work will get you through here if the pump is catching up with you. Top out and do a few easy moves to the anchor.
This route is the next one left of Masterpiece (5.10a) finishes to the right of the BIG roof of Noodle (5.12b).
8 bolts to quick clips.
Tim DeRoehn hiking a ropeless lap on Cenerpiece an...
Cliff flashing his second lead ever.
Starting up at the block.
|By Ladd Raine|
From: Plymouth, NH
Sep 21, 2007
This really is a great climb, don't be lulled by the grade it is pumpy and not a good warm-up (flash-pump for sure)for Social or any of the other 12s on this wall.
|By lee hansche|
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 21, 2007
it took me a while but i warm up quite nicely on this one these days... but then again just up the hill folks are warming up on Techno and Whiptide i guess its all relative... either way this is one of the best 5.10ds ive climbed...
|By Jeffrey LeCours|
From: New Hampshire
Jul 7, 2008
Fun the whole way up. Love this climb... but have been greeted by wasps buzzing in some of the holds just before the anchors the past few times I've climbed this.
|By M Sprague|
From: New England
Nov 16, 2008
One of my favorites at Rumney. Still fun after many, many , many repeats.
|By S. Neoh|
Mar 22, 2011
It is unanimous - this is a great route. Full value. One hard clip (last bolt on route?) if you are relatively short like me.