El Capitan is home to numerous classic routes but "The Nose" is the mega classic of them all. Towering nearly 3000' this route offers 31 pitches of superb climbing right up the middle of the wall. Often referred to as the "best rock climb in the world" it is obvious why this route is one of the most sought after big walls in the valley and the world. Most of the pitches on this route are outstanding but with classics such as the "Stovelegs", "King Swing" and "Great Roof" you'll wish it would never end. Although this is a great climb the route is still very demanding, sustained and exposed and not to be taken lightly. A few tips that might improve a parties chances of success and enjoyment on the route are the following. First if you and or your partner(s) can lead 5.10 solidly this will greatly speed up the amount of time it takes to climb the route as a large percentage of the climb is 5.10 or easier. Second study the topo carefully because there are numerous opportunities to either link or use alternate belays in order to skip pitches (a team of three can also skip hauling certain pitches with some good planning). Unavoidable factors are the number of parties on the route and the weather, both of which can make the route not so classic. For pitch by pitch info and topo's the "Yosemite Big Walls Supertopo" guide book is highly recommended.
Location
This is probably one of the easiest big wall approaches you could ask for. From El Capitan Meadow cross the road and find one of the obvious approach trails which should lead to a clearing. From the clearing you should be able to find a well worn path leading north and slightly west towards the wall. Once at the base of the wall you'll be standing directly under "The Nose". Hike up and left around the foot of the wall until it is possible to traverse back right and you should end up on a nice dirt ledge and at the start of the first pitch. This approach takes about 10 to 15 minutes.
Protection
Bring two sets of nuts with offsets, one or two sets of micro nuts with offsets and two or three sets of cams from .5" to 3.5". Also bring some micro cams and a 4.5" cam, leave the hammer and pins at home this route goes all clean.
For sure the most famous route in the valley if not the world.Climbing The Nose was a goal for me for years one biggest high lites of my climbing life.
it took us 2+1/2 days. We was our first bigwall and the 2. time we climbed together. I led everything while he hauled and cleaned. I freed everything up to 5.10. Above I aided, which I hadn't done before often. We fixed up to sickle. If you start counting on the ground 3 days are really relistic.
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