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El Capitan
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The Nose 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a C2

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 31 pitches, 3000', Grade VI
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a C2 [details]
FA: FA: Warren Harding, Wayne Merry, George Whitmore, 1958 FFA: Lynn Hill, 1993
Page Views: 93,462
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Feb 27, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: El Capitan-The Nose.
Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

El Capitan is home to numerous classic routes but "The Nose" is the mega classic of them all. Towering nearly 3000' this route offers 31 pitches of superb climbing right up the middle of the wall. Often referred to as the "best rock climb in the world" it is obvious why this route is one of the most sought after big walls in the valley and the world. Most of the pitches on this route are outstanding but with classics such as the "Stovelegs", "King Swing" and "Great Roof" you'll wish it would never end. Although this is a great climb the route is still very demanding, sustained and exposed and not to be taken lightly.
Here are a few tips that might improve a parties chances of success and enjoyment on the route. First if you and or your partner(s) can lead 5.10 solidly this will greatly speed up the amount of time it takes to climb this route as a large percentage of the climb is 5.10 or easier. Second study the topo carefully because there are numerous opportunities to either link or use alternate belays in order to skip pitches (a team of three can also skip hauling certain pitches with some good planning). Unavoidable factors are the number of parties on the route and the weather, both of which can make the route not so classic. For pitch by pitch info and topo's the "Yosemite Big Walls Supertopo" guide book is highly recommended.


Location 

This is probably one of the easiest big wall approaches you could ask for. From El Capitan Meadow cross the road and find one of the obvious approach trails which should lead to a clearing. From the clearing you should be able to find a well worn path leading north and slightly west towards the wall. Once at the base of the wall you'll be standing directly under "The Nose". Hike up and left around the foot of the wall until it is possible to traverse back right and you should end up on a nice dirt ledge and at the start of the first pitch. This approach takes about 10 to 15 minutes.


Protection 

Bring two sets of nuts with offsets, one or two sets of micro nuts with offsets and two or three sets of cams from .5" to 3.5". Also bring some micro cams and a 4.5" cam, leave the hammer and pins at home this route goes all clean.



Photos of The Nose Slideshow Add Photo
Think this pic speaks for itself!!!
Think this pic speaks for itself!!!
The Great Roof!
The Great Roof!
About to complete the King Swing.  <br />Photo by Tom Evans
About to complete the King Swing.
Photo by Tom Ev...
The shadow of the Nose in the early morning
The shadow of the Nose in the early morning
Looking down
Looking down
Evening at edge of the great roof.
Evening at edge of the great roof.
Camp 5
Camp 5
Climbers on the nose
Climbers on the nose
Brad sticking the Swing in style, just under halfway on our 6.5 hour run. Note my belay position, perfectly set-up for the "Double-Swing". <br /> <br />Brad has cleaned all of his gear off the Boot Flake, so once he's established on Eagle Ledge, he puts me on belay and I swing on over to join him. Mega stoke every time you stick the swing and here the Monkeys hooting in the Valley below. <br /> <br />Tom Evans Photo.
Brad sticking the Swing in style, just under halfw...
Starting up Pancake Flake
Starting up Pancake Flake
The Huber brothers on their speed record.  One on top of the Boot Flake, the other on the way up.  Other climbers at the base of Texas Flake and some on top of Dolt Tower.
The Huber brothers on their speed record. One on ...
Camp 5
Camp 5
The belay after the Great Roof pitch
The belay after the Great Roof pitch
Me leading on the last pitch of the Nose on our 6.5 hour run. Brad is jugging below, he's in the orange helmet all the way on the left. <br />Huge confusion and cluster here as a Korean team of three finish a multi-day ascent, and an attempted NIAD team finish a 30+ hour run. <br /> <br />How we weaved our way through this cluster, I can't quite remember. The language barrier did no hamper us, though, as one of the Koreans allowed us to pass, referring to us as "Time Warriors". <br /> <br />Tom Evans Photo
Me leading on the last pitch of the Nose on our 6....
El Cap Tower, 1979
El Cap Tower, 1979
Last pitch on the nose. I'm following and bares is jugging up
Last pitch on the nose. I'm following and bares is...
Below the Boot
Below the Boot
P28+29 super fun free climbing 2500' off the ground.  yeah!
P28+29 super fun free climbing 2500' off the groun...
Great roof is greater than great!!! :)
Great roof is greater than great!!! :)
looking up the nose from sickle ledge
looking up the nose from sickle ledge
sickle ledge, the nose el capitan 5.9+/A2 *****
sickle ledge, the nose el capitan 5.9+/A2 *****
Stellar views.  <br /> <br />Photo: Corey Gargano
Stellar views.

Photo: Corey Gargano
The Great Roof.  <br /> <br />Photo: Corey Gargano
The Great Roof.

Photo: Corey Gargano
Hans cruzin' up the stove legs ...
Hans cruzin' up the stove legs ...
Bob Horan free climbing in the upper dihedrals.
Bob Horan free climbing in the upper dihedrals.
Climber on the first pitch of the Nose while El cap spire looms in the distance
Climber on the first pitch of the Nose while El ca...
the nose
the nose
C4 (the other C4)
C4 (the other C4)
Karsten leading pitch 4 with climbers above in the stovelegs.
Karsten leading pitch 4 with climbers above in the...
Terry, stemming on the pitch below Camp 5
Terry, stemming on the pitch below Camp 5
Bob Horan and Mike Lowe topping out the Captain. !#?* hours.
Bob Horan and Mike Lowe topping out the Captain. !...
Bob Horan starting up the Nose.
Bob Horan starting up the Nose.
Jugging high up on the Nose.  Can't remember what pitch this was, maybe the top of Pancake Flake?
Jugging high up on the Nose. Can't remember what ...
Nose bros..."A-man" and "Spider"
Nose bros..."A-man" and "Spider"
Me leading the pitch before the Great Roof - in the 70s
Me leading the pitch before the Great Roof - in th...
Pancake Flake
Pancake Flake
Bob Horan approaching the Great Roof.
Bob Horan approaching the Great Roof.
Camp 4 bivi
Camp 4 bivi
Brad Peterson getting ready to jug off the Dolt Tower.
Brad Peterson getting ready to jug off the Dolt To...
behind Texas Flake
behind Texas Flake
After the King Swing, with Alan Cooney <br />Courtesy of Tom Evans
After the King Swing, with Alan Cooney
Courtesy of...
Waking up on dolt.
Waking up on dolt.
Steve Eddy, Dolt Hole, 1973
Steve Eddy, Dolt Hole, 1973
Bruce Anderson on pitch 31...
Bruce Anderson on pitch 31...
Nick and Jake tidying up on Dolt Tower
Nick and Jake tidying up on Dolt Tower
Climber on the route just to the right of the Great Roof.
Climber on the route just to the right of the Grea...
Texas flake anyone!!!
Texas flake anyone!!!
Robert Anderson late 70's on The Nose <br />Photo Olaf Mitchell
Robert Anderson late 70's on The Nose
Photo Olaf M...
Chris Vultaggio on lower pitches of the Nose. <br /> <br />Photo by Camillo Pavone
Chris Vultaggio on lower pitches of the Nose.

Pho...
Comments on The Nose Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 10, 2014
By 426
Mar 6, 2007

Probably the finest rock climb in the world...I usually start with Pine Line, seems like a "cleaner" haul to the first pitch.

By alpinglow
From: city, state
May 14, 2007

Climbed it 9 years ago...great adventure. Do whatever you need to to climb this route. Few, if any, better

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 4, 2007

Can be very crowded during peak season. When I climbed it there were seven people sleeping at El Cap Tower, and a similar number at Camp V.

By Bruce Diffenbaugh
From: Cheyenne,Wyoming
Feb 20, 2008

For sure the most famous route in the valley if not the world.Climbing The Nose was a goal for me for years one biggest high lites of my climbing life.

By scott morrison
From: colorado springs
Dec 17, 2008

how many days does this take most people. I can preaty much do a 5.10 blind-folded.

By RichardS.
Dec 8, 2009

Planning to do this route this year in August. I have a couple of questions, if anyone has any beta on this:
1. Do you need a portaledge?
2. We were planning to rappel the route the day before and stash water, food, etc. at our preplanned bivys. I know the whole route is set of to rappel, does anyone know if the rappel route meets up with the main bivy spots (Camp VI, El Cap Spire, etc)? Thanks for the help!

By BenL
Jan 16, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C1

I do not think that taking all your stuff up to the top via the East Ledges is a very good idea. Better go a little lighter and quicker...
especially in the August heat going up there + rappelling seems like a waste of energy. And I think its wayyyyyy cooler to do start at the bottom not really knowing whats ahead of you...
but if you do the rappels, you get to Camp 4,5,6 and to Dolt. Not to sickle and not to El Cap tower, at least thats not the way its set up
We did it in August too. 1 gallon per person per day is MINIMUM! Bring more! I was 103 or so in Valley when we did it, and we had a little more as it turned out we were going faster than anticipated. Still super thirsty the whole way.
Fix to sickle, bivy on Dolt the first day. If you do the jardine traverse you can go to camp five. But I would bring enough water so I could also bivy on C4 and then C6 in case I do not get to C5...
From camp 5 to the top are the best pitches. If you are lucky you find water on C6...
have fun, its the best climb in the world.

By Jacek Czyz
From: Denver, Chicago, Poland
Feb 11, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C2-

I know something about aiding since I did some of the hardest on the wall. Still I think The Nose have A2 at least in three section: below SickleL, Glowering Spot and Changing Corners. Because of complexity it is not easy route. Must be take seriously especially as a first big wall. I see even mountain guides retreat because of slow progress.
It is GREAT ROUTE. Thanks Warren.

By Fredd
Nov 22, 2010

Yosemite National Park is internationally known for beautiful waterfalls, clear streams, biological diversity, marvellous granite cliffs, the huge sequio groves. This park has a number of plants like chaparral/oak woodland, lower montane, upper montane, subalpine and alpine and animals such as Bighorn sheep, bobcat, gray fox, mountain beaver, mountain lion, black bear and bat.

By jdorais
Jun 15, 2011

I am dumb. My partner and I fixed lines to sickle a few days ago and dropped the extra rope after ascending them the next day. After climbing and in our hurry to get back home, we forgot to pick it up. If anyone wants to clean our litter feel free to keep the rope. Its a pink 70 meter and should be at the base of the sickle ledge rap route. Hopefully it doesn't sit there looking ugly for too long...

By Osprey
From: ...
Jan 21, 2012

FA: Warren Harding, Wayne Merry, George Whitmore, 1958
FCA: Bruce Carson, Yvon Chouinard, 9/1973

FFA: Lynn Hill, 1993

By Sayfe
From: Scottsdale, az
Apr 19, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2

We were the last party that climbed the nose using warrens old original bolts. As we were climbing it, a party was behind us changing all the bolts ( metolius donated bolts to replace)...
Great climb. We fixed up to sickle ledge on Sunday. Jumared up on Monday morning, and topped on wednesday by noon. I have the slide, and will put them on FB. One of the best climbing experiences... Specially the stove leg cracks, the Texas chimney, the king pendulum, the big roof.... Fun,...

By Tito Krull
Nov 19, 2012

so this might be a stupid question but i was wondering why the nose is only rated a 5.9 on here i always thought climbs are rating but the hardest moves in them which would make the nose's great roof and changing corners at least .13 and up...?? and why is it only a C2...??
---thanks tito

By SteveZ
From: Denver, CO
Nov 20, 2012

Hey Tito, not a stupid question if you don't know :). In theory the 5.9 refers to the highest level of mandatory free climbing (that which is not aidable). You could certainly climb it at 5.10 C2 or 5.12 C2 or just free at 13+/14- too. This is how aid ratings work, same is said for the C2 part, it's the hardest aid on the route. Only C2 because the gear is pretty straight forward, just awkward/not quite perfect at a couple points. That and you can do it with clean gear alone (hence the "C").

By Tito Krull
Nov 29, 2012

Thanks steveZ i was thinkin about that way the other day but this really cleared things up for me, hopefully gonna be there within the next year to do my first trad free climbing, but in addition to the climbing does anyone know the situation on the garbage in the rock? I heard it is a big problem, disrespect to our big walls, i plan on saving money and going there to clean on my own time and was just curious if its still a problem?

Thanks: Tito

By Tito Krull
Nov 30, 2012

oh and another thing well i'm thinkin i just recently began buying trad gear i really like the idea of tricams so i got a set of 6, just curious what a good overall rack should consist of, i realize each situation may require different peices but i was just looking to start a good rack...??
Thanks: Tito

By SirTobyThe3rd
Mar 18, 2013

Rack. Set of nuts. Set of Metolious offset cams, Double set of cams from blue metolious to #4BD Camalot (be ready to walk the 4 for a long time too). Triples in .75/1/.5 are awesome to have. No hooks/camhooks were used..

By Sendasaurus Rex
Jul 23, 2013

Great route. Few people know that the name comes from the Gogol short story. A man loses his nose, only to find out it had been baked into a loaf bread and subsequently masquerading around town as a local official.

By Nate Flynn
From: United States
Aug 8, 2013

To add to Rex's comment, Ron Kauk said that el cap's legend in the Indian locals was of two bear cubs that climbed up to escape a winter storm.

By Nate Flynn
From: United States
Aug 8, 2013

I climbed around the base of pine line below the nose and found many parties roping up. I would love to climb the nose but it's hard to beat crowds, any idea on when's the best time to do it?

By Robbie Brown
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 16, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2

I just lead and hauled every pitch without offset nuts or cams. It was nice having a 00c3 but nothing smaller than that. This is truly the best rock climb in the world! I only place about 3 nuts on the whole climb also... Go light, get it right!

By Josh Turner
Dec 19, 2013

I'm looking at climbing the Nose in a couple years, but I'm curious about the belays and bolts. Is the majority of the climb bolted, or is it mostly with trad gear (nuts, cams, etc). Secondly, do the majority of belay stations have bolts, or are there a significant amount of hanging belays or areas that require you to build your own anchor system?

Lastly, what is the best setup for sleeping on the side of the cliff? What gear do I need to purchase? Thanks!

By Kevin Boyko
From: Boston, Ma
May 9, 2014

I'm thinking of climbing this soon. I've heard it's the best route ever. I've only been climbing a year and 3/4, never actually sent, but can get up 5.12+ already if I use the bolts. I think this time next year I will be able to get up 5.13 or 14 with bolts. Are there a lot of bolts on this route or do I need trad gear(traditional: cam, nuts, tricams, and hexes)? It seems like this would just slow you down. As it's heavy, really heavy. Seriously my friend has many, many cams and I can't imagine climbing with all that. Also, why would you haul a bag? I climbed a multipitch with a friend and I just carried his backpack, it was heavy, but I was able to put in our food and slr camera.

By Jplotz
From: Wenatchee, WA
Jun 10, 2014

Yeah K. Boyko. You should be totally fine with a dozen quickdraws and a fanny pack for this route. Get done before noon and have a tuna wrap at Degnan's at Yosemite Village!