East Buttress 

One of the bolts is missing on the first rap. There's just one bolt with a severely bent hanger. Kinda sketchy.

Sorry Rob, I had my facts wrong...I went and changed it. As far as I know, modern concensus is IV 5.9 A0 or 5.10c, although I have also seen it listed as III 5.8 A1 or 5.10-. Regardless, great route no matter how it gets rated. Anyone care to comment.

My impression is that the majority of today's parties free this, but I'm not hip on the current Yosemite scene. It is well protected and it would seem that most parties that can lead the 5.9 crack can free the bolt ladder, or at worst hang on every bolt.

I must admit I aided it the first time I climbed it, but that was because of tradition and we thought we couldn't lead 5.10 face. Then the second time I freed it and it seemed quite easy. For sure do not take aiders, the bolt ladder is quite short.

Generally I think it's appropriate to go with the traditional rating for a climb, so IV 5.9 AO seems right.

Yeah, but does a Fifty Crowded Climb really need the additional mobbing this rating invites[not that it's a big secret or anything]? You can't even get on the thing until midafternoon anyhow...

Here is a link to a free updated topo to do the route with a 70 meter cord.
http://fishproducts.com/topos/yostopos/east_butt_middle.html

That's a sweet topo! Thanks, Russ!

Consistent, moderate, incredibly fun climbing plus incredible views of El Cap make this my favorite Valley climb to date. Easy to combine P1 & P2, P3 & P4, P10 & P11 with a 60m cord to make for an 8-pitch route.

In discussing rating:
In the old "Meyers yellow book" it is rated 5.10c
If you look at the topo the only thing over 5.9 is the bolt ladder.
(which is short, low angle and easily 'batmanned' without aiders)
The only 5.9 (in the Meyers book) is the move over the small roof above the bolt ladder to gain the 5.6 crack for the second half of the pitch. However there are many 5.8 pitches above, a few that might actually be contested as having enough gusto to be considered 5.9.
I think 5.9 A0 is an appropriate rating.

I completely miss the point of Rob Dillon's comment?
"Come on Stormy, the FFA was in 1961 at .10c! Do we really need to call this 5.9 AO?"
Is this implying that basically everybody that climbs, flashes .10c frictiony, face?


When I did this route I was really looking forward to freeing the bolt ladder. But my partner and I simul' climbed to the bolt ladder and made such good time I didn't want to kill the rhythm with dicking around trying to get a clean, onsight of the bolt ladder. I suppose the crux would be up around the 4 or fifth bolt as that is where I started "yanking, and standing on stuff", alpine aid style.

We had left camp 4 around 6am and were back by 4 pm that included hoofing it over there and back. It was midweek late September (78'). We never saw a sole, with the exception of a party doing the first few on "central pillar". At that time the bolt ladder was spooky old 'star Dryvn' bolts, with (as I recall) these funk arse aluminum strap, hangers.
(I guess Ed Leeper had not used his newly created hangers to retrofit the ladder)

But all in all, I would have to say, "those were the days" one of the best routes anywhere, anytime. ;)

I did the .10a face variation out to the right of the bolt ladder in June and it was awesome! Airy and technical.

I also did a variation that goes left up top to a 5.10 friction traverse to as nice angling offset crack rather than the scary flared grooves

Not that you should, but the top of the pedestal is a pretty sweet bivy if you want to beat all the other climbers to it in the morning. Finding it in the dark was a royal beeatch (10 years ago). It's nice not having to trudge up there in the morning, and you get a bit more rest. Watch out for flamboyant, ego fed, speed-climber/guides trying to beat you on the 50 crowded variation with their clients(in approach shoes, the bastard!). The guide beat us to the belay, but his clients sucked and we ended up still 1st party all the way up.

We tried to free the 10c part, but gave up when guide dude was trying to pass us, French free to the rescue!

A superb slab challenge to the 5.10 slab leader, even for a budding one. Safe and smeary! Look around closely if yer stumped. Don't let yer guard down until you clip the anchors, after the crux is tricky and sequential! Channel your inner Sacherer...

Go right for the last pitches!

We climbed this route on Saturday, April12 probably one day before you Dennis - and set up four additional rap stations plus to 3 existing one. Descend took about same time as a climb.
I would wait until may

Alexey

Descent still snowy early May. We brought an extra rappel line and it was nice to have.

Carabiner posts referred to by my SuperTopo guide appear to be missing. I found one on the first small leg of a trail leading up much west of the parking lot that likely won't help anybody. The second leg of the trail is confusing since a tree appears to have exploded across it.

Climbed this again yesterday as six rope-stretching 60m pitches, involving a wee bit of simul-climbing and a couple of hanging belays. A 70m would allow you to climb the route comfortably in 6 pitches with more options for good belays.

Was looking forward to doing this route for several years, and it's every bit as good as I'd hoped. Quality climbing the whole way. Definately combine P1 & 2.

I'll tell you one thing- if you do the route, do the more modern version, not the origional version with all the chimny climbing. 250' of chimney, very little of it aesthetic...
A few parties followed my partner up into that line and got to fixed gear or a stump and BAILED!
I think they were the smart ones- they retreated to the "50 classics" version and climbed something more fun.
Also, the reccomended rack in the Supertopo book is pretty much wrong for the chimneys unless you like big runouts.

As for the rumors in camp 4 that the chimneys are full of bees... they might have some, but none that bothered us.

No bees on the Original Route. A worthwhile variation after you have done the Classic variation a time or two.

ANTS! ANTS! OMIGOD, ANTS!!!!!!

We pitched this out in 8 to keep ahead of the hoards behind us. On guidebook P3/our P2, the pitch with the incredible flake system to incredible corners, there was a huge nest of biting red ants. My belayer and I both got swarmed, and when I say swarmed, I mean thousands. And no, neither of us were on anything. If you squish them, it emits a noxious smell, and our theory is that this makes the colony swarm, so avoid squishing them if possible.

For SHORT PEOPLE: if you are short, like me (5'3") the bolt ladder is not a ladder and involves rather a lot of regular climbing, albeit well-protected. Make your taller partner lead the damn bolt ladder.

I thought that the Original Route was super classic and really made the route- nothing like having to work for your reward!

I really didnt think that the chimneys were run-out on it, even with a smaller rack than the Taco recommends (we had one #4, two #3s), but bring a crapload of slings if you want to link either of them together.

All in all, a great route- no bees or ants to speak of.

We left the car at 6:30am and got stuck behind a hopelessly slow and sketchy party. We spent most of the day waiting at belays and barely finished the raps before dark, and to make matters worse the sketchy party dropped a cam and several rocks. Also, we were crowded from below by agro parties even though we were doing our best to tailgate and try to pass the slow party, who refused requests to pass.

I recommend a #0 C3 or equivalent for the 50 Crowded variation. I didn't bring one and took a big fall.

Most of the climbing is quite mediocre, with lots of sandy holds and loose flakes. I would not do this route again unless the crowds magically cleared out for a day. There is plenty of better quality climbing in the Valley.

With a 70m rope via the 50 crowded variation, we did the route in 7 or so pitches. The route is very moderate with only a few crux 10a moves, so if you are compitent, you could cruise it. Beware of slower parties as this route is very popular