East Buttress 

Climbed the route using the '50 crowded' variation on Sunday. Gorgeous route and perfect weather. Unfortunately, the descent is horrendous right now. The gully is snow filled and clearly several parties before us made makeshift rappel stations. After the first 3 standard raps (which could all use a little upgrading), we made 4 more to negotiate the steep snow and ice.

Bottom line: Wait until July to climb this route.

Sorry Rob, I had my facts wrong...I went and changed it. As far as I know, modern concensus is IV 5.9 A0 or 5.10c, although I have also seen it listed as III 5.8 A1 or 5.10-. Regardless, great route no matter how it gets rated. Anyone care to comment.

My impression is that the majority of today's parties free this, but I'm not hip on the current Yosemite scene. It is well protected and it would seem that most parties that can lead the 5.9 crack can free the bolt ladder, or at worst hang on every bolt.

I must admit I aided it the first time I climbed it, but that was because of tradition and we thought we couldn't lead 5.10 face. Then the second time I freed it and it seemed quite easy. For sure do not take aiders, the bolt ladder is quite short.

Generally I think it's appropriate to go with the traditional rating for a climb, so IV 5.9 AO seems right.

Yeah, but does a Fifty Crowded Climb really need the additional mobbing this rating invites[not that it's a big secret or anything]? You can't even get on the thing until midafternoon anyhow...

Here is a link to a free updated topo to do the route with a 70 meter cord.
http://fishproducts.com/topos/yostopos/east_butt_middle.html

That's a sweet topo! Thanks, Russ!

Consistent, moderate, incredibly fun climbing plus incredible views of El Cap make this my favorite Valley climb to date. Easy to combine P1 & P2, P3 & P4, P10 & P11 with a 60m cord to make for an 8-pitch route.

In discussing rating:
In the old "Meyers yellow book" it is rated 5.10c
If you look at the topo the only thing over 5.9 is the bolt ladder.
(which is short, low angle and easily 'batmanned' without aiders)
The only 5.9 (in the Meyers book) is the move over the small roof above the bolt ladder to gain the 5.6 crack for the second half of the pitch. However there are many 5.8 pitches above, a few that might actually be contested as having enough gusto to be considered 5.9.
I think 5.9 A0 is an appropriate rating.

I completely miss the point of Rob Dillon's comment?
"Come on Stormy, the FFA was in 1961 at .10c! Do we really need to call this 5.9 AO?"
Is this implying that basically everybody that climbs, flashes .10c frictiony, face?


When I did this route I was really looking forward to freeing the bolt ladder. But my partner and I simul' climbed to the bolt ladder and made such good time I didn't want to kill the rhythm with dicking around trying to get a clean, onsight of the bolt ladder. I suppose the crux would be up around the 4 or fifth bolt as that is where I started "yanking, and standing on stuff", alpine aid style.

We had left camp 4 around 6am and were back by 4 pm that included hoofing it over there and back. It was midweek late September (78'). We never saw a sole, with the exception of a party doing the first few on "central pillar". At that time the bolt ladder was spooky old 'star Dryvn' bolts, with (as I recall) these funk arse aluminum strap, hangers.
(I guess Ed Leeper had not used his newly created hangers to retrofit the ladder)

But all in all, I would have to say, "those were the days" one of the best routes anywhere, anytime. ;)

I did the .10a face variation out to the right of the bolt ladder in June and it was awesome! Airy and technical.

I also did a variation that goes left up top to a 5.10 friction traverse to as nice angling offset crack rather than the scary flared grooves

Not that you should, but the top of the pedestal is a pretty sweet bivy if you want to beat all the other climbers to it in the morning. Finding it in the dark was a royal beeatch (10 years ago). It's nice not having to trudge up there in the morning, and you get a bit more rest. Watch out for flamboyant, ego fed, speed-climber/guides trying to beat you on the 50 crowded variation with their clients(in approach shoes, the bastard!). The guide beat us to the belay, but his clients sucked and we ended up still 1st party all the way up.

We tried to free the 10c part, but gave up when guide dude was trying to pass us, French free to the rescue!

A superb slab challenge to the 5.10 slab leader, even for a budding one. Safe and smeary! Look around closely if yer stumped. Don't let yer guard down until you clip the anchors, after the crux is tricky and sequential! Channel your inner Sacherer...

Go right for the last pitches!

We climbed this route on Saturday, April12 probably one day before you Dennis - and set up four additional rap stations plus to 3 existing one. Descend took about same time as a climb.
I would wait until may

Alexey

Descent still snowy early May. We brought an extra rappel line and it was nice to have.

Carabiner posts referred to by my SuperTopo guide appear to be missing. I found one on the first small leg of a trail leading up much west of the parking lot that likely won't help anybody. The second leg of the trail is confusing since a tree appears to have exploded across it.